Stupid joystick tricks - Horizontal motion issue

[MAC-42]

Well, apart from the initial cleaning of my one working 5200 joystick, the thing has been trouble free, relatively speaking.

 

That is, until this weekend. Suddenly, moving the joystick to the right did not reliably cause things on screen to move. Sometimes the effect is worse than others. In Pac-Man, the right motion is present, but sometimes requires me to really jam the stick in that direction to get some action. In Defender, rightward motion seems really inhibited by corresponding up/down motions. Interestingly, while playing Super Breakout, right always works, but stops about 90% of the way across the screen.

 

I thought the problem was the horizontal potentiometer, so I opened the thing up and, using Super Breakout, gave it a twist. Seems to move all the way across the screen freely in both directions when I directly manipulate the pot.

 

I'm really confused. Any ideas on what this could be about?

[bohoki]

the little arms on the pots are friction fit so they can be shifted its best to use missile command and get the bottom pot at 6 oclock with the cursor centered and the uppy downy pot at 9 oclock with the cursor centered

[MAC-42]

Yeah, I had a look at the pots over the weekend and again just now at your recommendation. They're properly calibrated from what I can tell when it's all closed up. I did try it out on Missile Command as you suggested, though, and that was interesting. With the lid and stick removed and with me directly manipulating the horizontal pot, I could move the cursor all the way across the screen. With the joystick assembled, I was only able to move to the right as far as the area above the last city on the right. If I gave the stick a good solid yank to the right after that, I could get it a bit past the city, but not all the way to the edge.

 

Just me spitbalin' here, seeing as I know sod all about this joystick other than the usual and customary methods of cleaning the button contacts, but is it possible that the problem is with the actuators and how far they're moving in the joystick housing rather than the pot itself? Given the behavior of the thing when the joystick is open as opposed to when it's closed, that seems like a potential source of difficulty here. If that's so, how finicky are they when it comes to restoring them to working order?

[CRTGAMER]

the little arms on the pots are friction fit so they can be shifted its best to use missile command and get the bottom pot at 6 oclock with the cursor centered and the uppy downy pot at 9 oclock with the cursor centered

 

THIS

 

For the horizontal calibration try Galaxian. The arm correctly twisted on the shaft of the potentiometer will move the shooter faster at each extreme.

 

@ Space Invader - For Missile Command, keep an eye out for the 5200 Trakball.

Edited September 20, 2013 by CRTGAMER

[MAC-42]

Hadn't checked in for a couple of days. Turns out that there were other developments in the joystick story.

 

Back on Tuesday night I was fiddling around with the arm for the horizontal pot. As I was twisting at it, I started noticing a slight wiggle in the potentiometer. I sighed, gave it a little tug, and sure enough the thing slid cleanly and easily out of its little housing in the joystick. A little annoyance because I couldn't remember which of my storage cubbies held my superglue. Found it, glued it, and things have improved. I think I just have to mess with the pot arm now to put it back to where it was before I started fiddling with it.

 

For Missile Command, keep an eye out for the 5200 Trakball.

 

Car's AC went out. And I live in Florida. So I'll have to wait. Good grief, do I wish I could, though. Playing Missile Command--and Centipede, come to that--on the Trakball would be proper good, though, wouldn't it?

[namedjughead]

I'm having a similar problem with one of my joysticks too. Left works fine, but when I go right, it goes all the way right without stopping. I can center it perfectly on Missile Command when it's disassembled, but the problem comes back when I put it back together. I think it might be a problem with the actuator plate. Right now I'm using the controller as a keypad for my Wico, but I would really like to get it 100% working again. Any ideas?

[Charlie_]

Sorry I didn't read this but the pot not being seated properly in its base is what I thought as soon as I started reading.

I've had this happen to me a few times and glued it in place. Normally though I don't glue them in. I just press them down with my thumb.

There are different types of pots, the kind with the orange plastic ring around them and the goldish / silverish type.

I think the orange ring ones need to be glued...

[AtariBrian]

I'm having a similar problem with one of my joysticks too. Left works fine, but when I go right, it goes all the way right without stopping. I can center it perfectly on Missile Command when it's disassembled, but the problem comes back when I put it back together. I think it might be a problem with the actuator plate. Right now I'm using the controller as a keypad for my Wico, but I would really like to get it 100% working again. Any ideas?

I have alot of controllers where they keep going in a certain direction after you let off . Some do that in both up and left directions and then some just up and etc . Did you clean the pots really good ? That (could) be the issue here as they have all of that grease . But then again, it could be something else

[namedjughead]

I have alot of controllers where they keep going in a certain direction after you let off . Some do that in both up and left directions and then some just up and etc . Did you clean the pots really good ? That (could) be the issue here as they have all of that grease . But then again, it could be something else

I haven't tried cleaning the pots yet. Is there any particular cleaning method you could recommend?

[namedjughead]

The handle thing on my pot was misaligned. I adjusted it, and now the joystick centers. I saved myself from having to spend money on a replacement.

[AtariBrian]

The white plastic pot arm ?

[namedjughead]

That's it. I couldn't think of the term.

[AtariBrian]

Well usually when you take the top off it get misaligned anyways . I have a bunch that have this issue and I am not sure why . But , as long as yours works now thats great .

[unoclay]

On this topic, similar problem, help appreciated.

 

Two of my joysticks (both a Wico and a classic 5200 stick) will not reach the far right-hand side of teh screen. Using Missile Command as a test case, the cursor will not reach the far right edge of screen. I've opened the case and messed with the little white do-dads (i think you guys are calling them the 'pots'?--the small white circular things with tiny arms, oriented to 9 and 6 o'clock), and the problem persists--even when scrolling the cursor with the small internal circle/arms, the problem is still there--cannot reach the right side of the screen.

 

I'm capable of taking the stick apart and doing basic repairs--if anyone could give me a basic description of what to try, i can attempt it?

 

Thanks in advance...

[AtariBrian]

It may be the console causing the problem ?

[unoclay]

Seems like not the console--I have another Wico stick that works ok, even though it uses the same # pad as the Wico with the problem.

 

So, summarizing:

Wico Stick #1: has problem

Classic 5200: has problem

 

Wico Stick #2: no problem

 

I thought the same thing (console) until i tried the #2 stick.

[+DamonicFury]

Is it possible that the trim controls on Wico stick #2 have been adjusted to compensate for a slightly mis calibrated console? Also can you adjust the trim controls on Wico #1 to fix the issue? Also, as noted above, calibrating the console isn't terribly difficult, but it does require unscrewing the console and taking off the top cover so you can adjust the necessary pot.

[unoclay]

Ok, update and response:

 

I wasn't entirely accurate when i mentioned that Wico #2 is working correctly. Upon further review, it does not reach the far right of the screen either--but it goes further to the right than Wico#1 or 5200 Classic controller.

 

One strange aspect of note: not entirely reproducable, but if i flick the Wico 2 hard/quickly, sometimes the cursor (missle command) flicks to the far right for a split second, but then flicks back into standard alignment. Like, it jumps to right for a split second. Not consistent or reliably reproduceable.

 

 

Adjusting the trim controls on either Wico 1 or 2 does not fix the issue--however, as above, Wico #2 is 'better'.

Classic 5200 controller is pretty limited (stops about 2 inches from right edge) and doesnt matter if i open the controller and use the white dials--still doesnt reach the edge.

 

SO......does this mean i should open the console and calibrate? With 3 separate controllers unable to reach far right edge, seems...like it might be the console after all?

 

If so, anyone want to point me to directions on this? Im not afraid of trying it, but i do want the system to remain working (its sentimental, was my Grandmothers > mine) so basic info /tips appreciated.....

 

thank you, this forum seems like mostly polite people, which i appreciate.

[+DamonicFury]

In this thread...

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/193598-redemption-calibration-problems/?fromsearch=1

 

...Prodos8 posted a pic of exactly where to find the calibration pot. Sure sounds like yours needs adjusted slightly.

[peedenmark7]

Is it possible that the trim controls on Wico stick #2 have been adjusted to compensate for a slightly mis calibrated console? Also can you adjust the trim controls on Wico #1 to fix the issue? Also, as noted above, calibrating the console isn't terribly difficult, but it does require unscrewing the console and taking off the top cover so you can adjust the necessary pot.

 

+2 on calibration... More often than not this is the case , especially if you put lots of time into gaming. If it is something that happens all the time, you may want to invest in a new bias pot.

I have this issue on my beloved 4 port , but I play so well on it, that I simply leave the screws out of the housing so that I can calibrate as needed.

 

Even on NOS motherboards out of the package you can still have to adjust simply because the hardware is old.

 

 

There was also mention of the cursor going off center when the joystick is released. This is usually due to the age of the rubber boot. If left jammed in a certain position the rubber will eventually develop a memory and will naturally go to that position. Always store your CX-52 with the stick dead center up.

 

Not sure how one can spin the pot arm around on the pot shaft as they are press fit and have ribs. If you are able to move the pot arm on the shaft chances are you've stripped the plastic teeth and will be adjusting it quite often.

Edited January 23, 2014 by peedenmark7

[unoclay]

Cool everyone, thanks for this basic guidance. I have in-laws visiting this weekend, but since most of their visit will probably be hanging out and watching movies/chilling with the wife, I can probably give this calibration a try, will report back with outcomes.

 

If i'm understanding correctly, i do tiny adjustments (turns?) to the internal pot circled in the Prodos8 photo, then test it using a few games.

 

Hopefully this will fix it. Seems like a common problem and I appreciate all the input on this surely-tiresome/repetitive topic.

 

Now onto my next point of research: how to replace the destroyed shoulder pads in SNES controllers (Super Mario Kart and Mortal Kombat 2 wore a stack of these controllers completely out)!

Edited January 23, 2014 by unoclay

[unoclay]

Good news everyone! ( <------read in Futurama's Professor Farnsworth voice)

 

Actually it is good news. Thanks to your input and guidance my 5200 is now centered/calibrated correctly. I can reach the edges of the screen on Missile Command with each controller, and the entire problem is corrected!

 

Because you were so helpful, I made a short youtube video documenting the fix. Feel free to share. Yes, my methods (especially for getting the cartridge board to expose) are somewhat unprofessional, but it worked, so I thought I'd share.

 

Thanks again for all the help, here's a link to the video.