GTretro87 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Hey all! So here's a random one (not really), I picked up my FIRST ever colecovision recently and of course.. it didn't work, well something didn't opened it up, noticed the ground cable on the side was disconnected so I soldered it back on - still nothing. So I tested the power port while the adapter was connected and noticed no power (the first thing to suspect).. So instead of wasting time trying to fix the power supply (after opening it up and noticing some solder pads having been lifted through the years.. I just didn't bother)..... I decided to look up and see what others have done; besides fixing the stock adapter, and installing an internal power supply. I figured to build my own power supply - so I ordered a: 1) Meanwell PT65A power supply ($18.85 plus shipping) (a PT45A would have been more than sufficient and cheaper, but only by a couple dollars literally.. so why not bigger lol)... Here's the site - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/PT-65A/?qs=pqZ7J9Gt%2FmopIij6cvuDGg%3D%3D Here's a link for the cheaper (which, again, is more than sufficient) Meanwell PT45A - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/PT-45A/?qs=pqZ7J9Gt%2Fmpp343y2UoKxA%3D%3D&kpid=52830610&gclid=CJSJw6jGwcUCFdYUHwodHmwAtg 2) Radioshack Project Box ($6.49) (about medium size, PSU is about 5" long and 3" wide).. http://www.radioshack.com/project-enclosure-6x4x2-/2701806.html#.VVS-A_lViko 3) some PC motherboard stand-offs.. ($1.99) (anywhere you can find, but radioshack has a set - http://www.radioshack.com/metal-standoffs-with-screws-4-pack/2760195.html#.VVS-PflViko 4) and last but not least, a 2-prong Inlet power socket for the cord to connect to the wall outlet ($7.87 from site, depends where you find them - I got mine off ebay) - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-220V-C8-2-Pin-Male-Electric-Inlet-Power-Socket-Connector-Black-10pcs/1553635504.html drilled holes in the box for the PSU, made a cutout for the 2-prong socket.. then I used the cable from the original power supply to connect the +5v, -5V, 12V sources and ground... and I made a cutout for the little rectangle to keep it in place when all is buttoned up - just like the original power supply. here's a schematic for my power supply (again, Meanwell PT65A) ***MAKE SURE**** that when you connect the power cord wires to the output side of the power supply (the side that goes TO the colecovision).. that you connect each wire according to the following image... (from Colecovision.dk, I do not own this picture).. it does not specify if you're looking at the power cord plug that connects to the ColecoV... or if you're looking at the actual power SOCKET from the colecovision... again, this is not specified. I have took it upon myself to find out at this image is when you're looking at the actual power cord PLUG.. (I'm very specific and without details, I won't use common sense lol).. Then if you need, just look at the following picture.... HOWEVER, I suggest using the first picture to make sure that EACH port holds the proper voltage ---> because when using both pictures and not knowing what I should be focusing on, you'll notice that the wire colors get mixed between the power cord and the actual colecovision power SOCKET (which you will see when looking inside or at that picture)... Just go one by one and measure to make sure all is connected accordingly... then add some shrink tube to safely secure the wires (if you're not using a molex connect like me).. I will upload all the remaining pictures layer on -- my wires did get mixed up, so I ended up making two corrections just to get all the ports outputting the right voltages.. In the end.. the Colecovision powered right up and I finally played it for the first time.. I played Donkey Kong.. and the controllers really need to serviced, so that's the next project.. But here's what the power supply looked like before it was finished Will post pictures ASAP to show you how I hooked up the wires and the finished DIY power supply working!! Not bad for a $35 project that'll outlast the original.... maybe cheaper depending where you get the parts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightywiz Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 probably won't outlast the original. the original has been around 30+ yrs and there are still working supplies out there. you could say "it may last as long as the original", but as long as there are still working OEM coleco supplies it will never catch up with the age of it. but anyways, great job. Myself: I think the pt45a will fit inside the colecovision in the left front quadrant, it's an 1/2 inch shorter then the pt-65a and can be wired internally. that would be the way I would go if I did it. don't forget to cut some vents into the case to reduce heat and increase the life span. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTretro87 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 probably won't outlast the original. the original has been around 30+ yrs and there are still working supplies out there. you could say "it may last as long as the original", but as long as there are still working OEM coleco supplies it will never catch up with the age of it. but anyways, great job. Myself: I think the pt45a will fit inside the colecovision in the left front quadrant, it's an 1/2 inch shorter then the pt-65a and can be wired internally. that would be the way I would go if I did it. don't forget to cut some vents into the case to reduce heat and increase the life span. You could be very well right about the coleco power supply not being outlasted - however, at least this way won't allow a huge brick to be placed on top of my power strip or in my wall outlet - that's for sure. It'll look cleaner I was going to go with the PT45A but then I decided this one.. Maybe down the road I'll get the PT45A myself and wire it internally - and that's the first place I thought of too - this will of course be the cleanest possible install - or maybe a smaller power supply I wonder if any/all the games made for the coleco need -5V or 12V -- because if both of those are only needed to run an ADAM computer.. then they're not really needed. If so, an even smaller internal or external PSU can be used any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightywiz Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 the -5v is only used for the ram chips you can do the ram upgrade I think using 4164's and then you can lose the -5v line. but the 12v & 5v lines are necessary. the mod is here in the forums somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omf Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 the -5v is only used for the ram chips you can do the ram upgrade I think using 4164's and then you can lose the -5v line. but the 12v & 5v lines are necessary. the mod is here in the forums somewhere. I believe some peripherals like the roller controller require -5 volts to operate, I don't have anything personally that uses -5 volt yet like that but I believe that it steels its power from an adaptor socket that plugs into the coleco power socket which the power cable plugs into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlsson Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) In case there are any Swedes (or Scandinavians in general, I suppose) who need to build their own Colecovision power supply, Elfa right now is having a fantastic sale on the PT-65A (the beefier of the two). Those cost 34.40 SEK each + VAT and shipping, which equals to 5.20 USD before shipping, compared to Mouser selling those for 18.85 USD. https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=69-947-42&toc=19593 Elfa might be shipping worldwide as well, but I don't know how much international shipping would add to the price. At the time of writing, they still have 144 power supplies in stock, but that might change quickly. I already ordered two so I'm good. Edited June 9, 2015 by carlsson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omf Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 i believe that it is possible to have one 12v input and use this, i will be ordering this soon to do some tests just incase i might need -5v: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121570540179 if you have done the 5v ram upgrade then this may be an option too if you no longer need a -5v supply http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Terminal-5V-1A-Switching-Voltage-Regulator-Power-Supply-/261243604047?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd3550c4f this states that it does not need a heatsink, how true this is I do not know, I have however ordered one for testing purposes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Tomlin Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 I believe some peripherals like the roller controller require -5 volts to operate, I don't have anything personally that uses -5 volt yet like that but I believe that it steels its power from an adaptor socket that plugs into the coleco power socket which the power cable plugs into? Nope. The roller controller doesn't even see the -5 volts. (Its power connector taps the +5 volts off of the power connector, and that's it.) It's got a couple of zeners at the controller ports, but IIRC that's because the CV does weird things with -5 volts on its controller ports. (I think it tries to make the joy/keypad select "more off than off" or something stupid like that, and is probably what sometimes kills the LS541 input chips.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phattyboombatty Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 if you have done the 5v ram upgrade then this may be an option too if you no longer need a -5v supply I am pretty sure this also applies if you've done the F18A upgrade. I believe the F18A bypasses stock RAM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omf Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 the 5volt switching regulator ( the green thing I posted above ) has arrived, I will do some tests and report back in a few days with the findings. intended setup: 12volt power supply from an external hard drive that has already died, to 5 volt switching regulator. tap 12 and 5 volt from relevant places possibly use some capacitors to deal with dodgy 12 volt supply from the hard drive power supply if needed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omf Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 the green voltage regulator above seems to work as intended, however it does get reasonably warm, with source voltage being 12v, it can be held without burning yourself but may be a bit warm to not go without a heat sink??? i guess the only way to tell is run with it. the problem i am having is the 12v source voltage, there seems to be some ripple on the power supply im using (a external hard drive power supply) that causes video out issues, even a 2200uf capacitor cant deal with it, although it does help greatly, i did try a 12 volt voltage regulator but puling 12 volt you are outputting about 10 volt which causes crash issues i will try some other capacitors to see if it can be corrected easily the other power supply has not arrived yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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