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Possible Regulator Mod on my Lynx 1 Version?


GTretro87
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Lol my own thread. I'm probably not going to change anything. I tried to do more work to my Lynx II... Still no go!!

 

So, I will start a new thread about zener diodes and place the link here.

 

I'm starting to believe that if zener diodes are now failing 20 something years after production.. They must not be SO bad. So why not change them every year or every other for optimal performance, right?

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Ok so I've completed my Lynx 1 regulator mod.

 

Considering that the AC adapter sends power to R69, it must cross through L18; therefore L18 is what requires a diode and L15 must require a jumper because it is ground.

 

I've connected everything and all is working well - however I've stumbled upon a completely different issue which I have not solved yet - a new thread will be needed for this.

 

My issue? Keep in mind this is a "New in box Lynx" that was recently purchased, shrink wrap and all which actually didn't come with an AC adapter but a rather brand new Lynx, and manual...

 

So after about 11 minutes of the system running with the regulator mod and McWills LCD - the colors on the screen started to wash and then my screen went blank WHITE

 

Now.. This has nothing to do with McWills LCD because I tested it on my Lynx 2 and it's working perfectly... Somehow My Lynx 1 is faulty... And this was not entirely human error

 

At first I was getting washed colors after 30 seconds of playing - this is because solder accidentally dropped onto the data and clock lines on the component side of the PCB. After removing the solder, and everything working great.. This happens

 

So I'm not sure if anybody has any clue, but I'm gonna keep it in my head that this is not the typical Lynx 1 PCB. For instance, it wouldn't make sense for a mass produced product to have jumper wires soldered on certain parts of the PCB - that's custom work, definitely not something mass produced as new - so I'm questioning that...

 

 

In the meantime I'm getting another lynx 1 PCB to mod and put inside my new Lynx 1 case

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If it's going blank white, it's likely the 5v is dropping too low. Have you checked the voltage after playing a bit and after oh about 20 minutes? If it is dropping low, maybe something went wrong with your mod or one of the component in the power circuit is faulty.

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Are you using as a linear voltage regulator ? If so what package type ?

I did some calculations and even the TO-220 needs a heat sink just to be on the safe site not to overheat.

Don't even think about putting a SOT package in it like mentioned on the circuit-board.de forum, if for sure will overheat.

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If it's going blank white, it's likely the 5v is dropping too low. Have you checked the voltage after playing a bit and after oh about 20 minutes? If it is dropping low, maybe something went wrong with your mod or one of the component in the power circuit is faulty.

 

I realized something... I was using Best's NiCad rechargeable battery pack during my testing.. Listen to this

 

I figured last night that before I go to sleep, let me calm my nerves and play a little with a bone stock (recoditioned) Lynx 2... I plugged in the NiCad pack and the system turned on but the screen was quickly becoming dim.. Then I thought, oh I need to charge it..

 

Maybe that's why my screen was going white because of not enough power? I'm about to test it out in a few after charging my pack 6 hours.. So let's see.

 

On a fully charged pack or new set of batteries, I can't see the voltage dropping within seconds.. I can however see the system refusing to work with a low charged/almost dead pack or batteries beause the regulator needs at least 6-6.5v to output 5v - and doesn't the lynx need at least 6v to work??

 

I'll keep you guys updates real soon

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