Rootvonroot Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Can't seem to find information on taking a 5200 apart. I took the screws out of the bottom of the console and I can take the top off. Now I see the metal shield over the board and can't seem to remove it so I can get to the board even after I twist the little metal "ties" that keep it secure to the board. I haven't found any additional screws or anything else for that matter that might be keeping the metal cover attached to the board. Any help? Is it glued on? or am I missing something? I don't want to just keep yanking on it in case I break something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutsy Doodleheimer Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 This video should solve your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootvonroot Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 that's more than I've ever found - thank you. But scanning through the video I see he removed the board from the console but never removed the metal cover from the board? soooooo close... or did i miss it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 (edited) It's been a long time since I gutted a 5200, but I'd recommend making sure that the tabs are straightened out very carefully to clear the slots in the circuit board. Duckbill pliers do a good job of flattening the tab and manipulating it into position. It doesn't take much misalignment to keep things locked together. I usually find a way to gently pry on things to determine exactly where the resistance is coming from. I don't think there were any adhesives involved. I'd take a look at my scrap pile to get you a solid answer, but I'm thousands of miles away from it for the next week. Edited July 11, 2015 by BigO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutsy Doodleheimer Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 He never took off the RF shielding in the video. Here you go. This one does for sure. And by the way. Welcome to Atariage!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootvonroot Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 I keep thinking that BigO - perhaps I'll recheck those tabs and get back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootvonroot Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 there we go - thanks Retrogamer81081 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutsy Doodleheimer Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 there we go - thanks Retrogamer81081 No problem!! That's what we're all here for!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootvonroot Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Got the RF shield off in reseated the memory chips and the console seem to work really well for about 30 minutes but then the green screen of death hit again so it's back to the drawing board, I suspect the memory chips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Could be a component heat failing. Point a fan at the machine to see if it runs longer before failure. I had a green screen problem once that only happened with certain games. It was a bad RAM chip, but that part of RAM only got accessed under certain conditions. I was able to change the behavior by swapping the position of the memory chips. That confirmed that I had a bad RAM chip. Then I had to figure out which one was bad by swapping each one in turn with an assumed good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I would also replace the voltage regulators at that time as they are the most likely cause of IC failure. As they run and get hot, failing ones let more power through and that kills components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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