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problem with sears heavy sixer


bradhig

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The heat sink is part of the board. Voltage regulators can be found cheap on eBay or from places like Jameco.

 

For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-LM7805-L7805-7805-TO-220-Voltage-Regulator-IC-/130747603683?hash=item1e712a1ae3

Edited by DrVenkman
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The heat sink is part of the board. Voltage regulators can be found cheap on eBay or from places like Jameco.

 

For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-LM7805-L7805-7805-TO-220-Voltage-Regulator-IC-/130747603683?hash=item1e712a1ae3

Depending on your location, there might also be some place like Fry's Electronics or one of the few remaining Radio Shack stores where you could just walk in and buy the part off the shelf.

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Looks like it would be hard to get that thing off the heat sink cause it's held down.

 

 

It's a screw. Desolder the three pins, remove the screw and it will come right off. Clean the old thermal paste off the heatsink with a cloth, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol, apply new thermal paste and install the new one. I'm about to replace the regulators on two myself in the next couple weeks - waiting on new green "chicklet" caps to replace them at the same time. Haven't done it yet but it should be a piece of cake.

Edited by DrVenkman
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I've never taken apart a Heavy - might be a blob of solder over the screw head. Check the underside of that board - see of there's a stub of a screw poking through. Of course, that might be soldered in place as well. My Light and both Woodies have screws holding the regulators in place, with no solder. What's I'd do is heat up your soldering iron to desoldering temp and touch it to that blob for a few seconds. You'll know pretty soon if there's a screw under there. Of course, you're right over a big heat sink - might take a bit longer than expected to actually remove all the solder (if that's what it is).

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Some of those are riveted, and a few are soldered over screws with threaded end up. Most used a nut and bolt like this one on that later heat sink.

His looks like soldered over screw. It looks like you can almost see the screwdriver slot in it.

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Edited by zylon
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Oh, what a pain. :(

Do you maybe have any friends or neighbors who could loan you a drill, grinder or even a file?

A file would probably be the cheapest thing you could buy to remove that rivet.

I have no idea what a heat sink would cost, but just replacing both the regulator and heat sink is a possible solution. Or is the heat sink attached to the board in some way as was mentioned earlier?

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The good news is that the voltage regulator is cheap. The bad news is that removing the old one is gonna be a bitch.

 

I wouldn't hesitate - personally - to Dremel off the edges of that rivet or just clamp it to the table and drill it out. That's me though - I'm kind of fearless that way. If you're not comfortable doing that, it might be worth soliciting help with the repair.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The good news is that the voltage regulator is cheap. The bad news is that removing the old one is gonna be a bitch.

 

I wouldn't hesitate - personally - to Dremel off the edges of that rivet or just clamp it to the table and drill it out. That's me though - I'm kind of fearless that way. If you're not comfortable doing that, it might be worth soliciting help with the repair.

Lack of resources seems to be more the issue than lack of courage. :)

I suspect that if he had the tools, we'd now be discussing "a job well done".

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The heat sink is attached to the board. I need to get a new voltage regulator first.

 

The heat sink has a bottom tab that is soldered into the larger hole just below the three legs of the regulator. So, you can remove as an assembly if need be.

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Doesn't the new voltage regulator need the heat sink or will it overheat?

 

It does. But since you do not have a means of removing the rivet, you can remove the whole assembly and take it somewhere to be ground off.

Another method that works on those, but looks a bit ghetto, is to just keep bending the regulator back and forth until the riveted tab breaks off. Then just use a clip or large paper clip to hold the new one to the heatsink.

The clips Atari used on the earlier heatsinks were the same kind of "clip-nuts" used on most car dash panels for the last 40 years or so.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The new voltage regulator blew while it was running Why?

 

What is wrong with this community? I need help and no one cares. I can't solder at all cause my hands shake too much from anxiety or fear of getting burnt. Mom soldered it in and now after it died no picture at all.

 

 

I CANNNT FIX THIS THING I DON"T KNIOW HOW AND NO ONE WILL TELL ME HOW!!! bunch of losers just want me to suffer with a broken atari cause I broke it frying pacman and don't want me to fix it. I don't have a workshop and lot of the equipment needed to fix it.

 

I am crying right now. We didn't even have the right size nut to screw down the regulator and don't know what size to get. Why don't one of you take this thing from me and fix it!!!

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Edited by bradhig
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