Omega-TI Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I've had a rotten afternoon. I pulled the AM29F010 out of my Nano to read the chip for someone, but after I put it back in the Nano, it no longer reads or saves to the CF card. (sigh) I can't figure out WHY either. All the traces and connections to the PCB look sound. About all it seems to be good for now is an external 32K. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYbUx6wZ7z4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 P.S. I doubt it could have been corrupted during a read, but if anyone else has a copy of the DSR, I'd sure love to get my hands on it. I'll burn it into a AT49F040 and see if makes any difference. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Ksarul Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Are you sure the chip seated properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Are you sure the chip seated properly? Yes, it was originally jammed all the way down, which made it a pain to pry up the first time, I've pulled it and re-seated it at least 1/2 a dozen times now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 All the pins on the socket good and soldered right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckoba Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) P.S. I doubt it could have been corrupted during a read, but if anyone else has a copy of the DSR, I'd sure love to get my hands on it. I'll burn it into a AT49F040 and see if makes any difference. Thanks. When I received my nanoPEB (which I subsequently sold), I immediately read the EEPROM. My nanoPEB continued to work after I put the EEPROM back into the unit. Thanks for reminding me that I needed to put it up on the website for situations like this. The image from my nanoPEB is at https://www.disavowed.jp/ti/roms/nanoPEB-29F010.bin.xz I hope this gets you running again ... but (using my psychic debugging powers) I suspect that pulling the EEPROM physically damaged the socket somehow. It's a buck-fifty fix, though, if you're handy with a soldering iron. Edited April 9, 2016 by ckoba 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 I hope this gets you running again ... but (using my psychic debugging powers) I suspect that pulling the EEPROM physically damaged the socket somehow. It's a buck-fifty fix, though, if you're handy with a soldering iron. Thanks Chris, I see no discernible damage, even under magnification, but that's not to say it's not there. The problem is, I'm okay with discrete components, the size of through hole stuff, but this SMT stuff is too dang small to work with, especially in the confines of a PLCC socket. I also don't have a proper tool (heat gun) to do it properly. I think the biggest disappointment will be to the guy at Fest West I planned to sell it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckoba Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thanks Chris, I see no discernible damage, even under magnification, but that's not to say it's not there. The problem is, I'm okay with discrete components, the size of through hole stuff, but this SMT stuff is too dang small to work with, especially in the confines of a PLCC socket. I also don't have a proper tool (heat gun) to do it properly. I think the biggest disappointment will be to the guy at Fest West I planned to sell it to. No worries. I had a vague memory that the EPROM and the Xilinx were in through-hole sockets, but if that's not the case, then you're SOL without a M3M rework station. You might theoretically be able to reflow the solder by using a really thin tip and touching it to the socket tines, but there's too much risk of damaging the socket. I think maybe you killed it just by pulling the EPROM, breaking a cold solder joint open thereby. Maybe, just maybe, you can reflow it by baking it -- the same way that people fixed bad Nvidia cards (and, off-the-record, something we used to do with MBA logic boards at United Fruit). I don't have any links for the process at hand; google "nvidia bake reflow". I know that doesn't do you (or your prospective buyer) any good, but maybe it's for the best. The QA on these things seem to be pretty poor, and you wouldn't be doing your buyer any favors by giving him a device that wouldn't survive a slight bend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tursi Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Did you triple check the orientation of pin one the chip? Easy to get turned around and even be convinced you have it right without checking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Did you triple check the orientation of pin one the chip? Easy to get turned around and even be convinced you have it right without checking. Hi Tursi, Yeah, I referred to a previous photo I took of it to confirm it's orientation, I had it right as one corner of the chip is keyed to the socket. I'm thinking Chris is probably spot on with his assessment. There may very well be a cold solder joint that's invisible to the naked eye, but as for fixing it in the oven... well, the female I live with 'does NOT approve' of the household oven being used in 'such a fashion'. I might drop by Harbor Freight tomorrow after work and see if they have a cheap heat gun that I can buy to blast the PLCC socket with some heat... it can't hurt. If it works, I'll stick it back in the 3D printed case and try to sell it AS IS at a drastically reduced price. If not, I'll keep it as a 32K only expansion for cartridge games. << THIS HEAT GUN >> looks like it could do the job. Comments or suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unhuman Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Don't forget your 20% off coupon for HF. You can find one online easy peasy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Don't forget your 20% off coupon for HF. You can find one online easy peasy. Hey, thanks for the heads up on the coupon idea! I went there and found this... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Can you show me a few pics of the socket at various angles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Can you show me a few pics of the socket at various angles? Sure, I'll try to take a few closeups after I get home from work this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Can you show me a few pics of the socket at various angles? Here it is, need more angles? CLICK ON IMAGE TO ENLARGE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) That'd be easy to re-flow and tack down with a standard fine-tip soldering iron. Which is what I'd be doing. I don't see any suspect pins, but at other angles something might show. You can also try wiggling them a bit with a safety-pin, the loose ones will move very easily. Edited April 10, 2016 by Keatah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 I picked up the heat gun shown above after work today. I'm thinking about going outside in a few minutes and try blasting it with some hot air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 If you've never used a heat gun for this purpose, practice on a crap board 1st! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Well, I don't have any crap boards. The sucker's busted anyway, what else could possibly go wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asmusr Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Are you sure it's the DSR and not something else? How does it respond to CALL MOUNT(1,1) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Well, I don't have any crap boards. The sucker's busted anyway, what else could possibly go wrong? You could end up burning the board while trying to get enough heat to reflow. Then it's really busted. Just sayin'.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+InsaneMultitasker Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Many of the connectors have traces connected to accessible through-holes. Consider testing continuity between the through-hole and the top of each connection. Rule out the working connectors then focus on the ones you cannot easily test. Those would be candidates for solder reflow. A fine tip and some solder would probably do the trick here. Edit: you could also try applying some gentle buy firm pressure to the entire socket while turning on the TI. This won't fix the problem but it might help to confirm a poor connection exists. Edited April 10, 2016 by InsaneMultitasker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Are you sure it's the DSR and not something else? How does it respond to CALL MOUNT(1,1) ? CALL MOUNT (1,1) results in * BAD NAME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 WTF? Now it's working?!? This makes no frigging sense! It booted to the title screen without the NANOPEB-SIO V1 notification, like it has been doing, this time I pressed RESET on the PS/2 keyboard and then it decides to pop up with the notification and start working? Between the time it was not working and the time it started I HAD NOT EVEN PHYSICALLY TOUCHED IT. I'm almost afraid to touch it to change CF cards or put it back in it's case. .... and now the CALL MOUNT command is working.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrax27407 Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Gremlins!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.