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NANO PEB's.... arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh!


Omega-TI

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Nano's!. I've had nothing but trouble with them.

I know some people have had success with them, but unfortunately I am not one of them. Anyway on to my little story...

 

I've had a Nano-PEB sitting unused on my shelf for what seems like forever, but I had to get it down of a reason I'll not go into here, anyway after I did what needed to be done, I decided to plug it in as 32K only device for some "serious game testing" with the FR99. ;)

 

Well now, isn't that special, when I turned on the NANO, the "NANOPEB-SIO V1" actually showed up. I figured, that's odd, I don't usually see that! So I tried to directory the CF card... and the sucker worked. Go figure! I wish I could determine what the intermittent problem is.

 

sml_gallery_35324_1027_44226.jpgsml_gallery_35324_1027_54092.jpg

 

 

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So, the nanoPEB doesn't "play well" with the Speech Synthesizer - one for the list.

 

Actually, it does quite well. I use it all of the time. The problem is a good connection. The grounding fingers in the TI ports, both 4A and SS are often a problem. It could also be that the case of the SS keeps the nanoPEB offset too much. I do occasionally have a problem and it is clearly the connection.

 

...lee

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You might want to go a little above 5v, the NanoPEB has a voltage regulator that induces a 0.7v minimum drop - so a 5v power brick will only actually power it to 4.3v (at least the one I have). (I use a 7v brick that I had laying around.)

 

Omega, I've found two recurring issues with mine that being aware of has helped make it more reliable.

 

The first is that the card edge connector is rather poor quality - the pins flip up and cross sometimes. Examine it and make sure all your pins are straight and close to the slot entry point, if any are bent too high use a needle or small screwdriver to GENTLY press it back down nearer the card.

 

The second is that if it contacts the aluminum shell of the TI, it will (obviously) short the traces on the back. I haven't insulated the back end of mine yet but paying attention to this has helped. I first noticed when I noticed that it was way more reliable on my beige unit (with a plastic case! ;) ). So, don't let it touch or tape up the back of the NanoPeb so it can't short against the aluminum.

 

HTH.

Edited by Tursi
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Anyone who ever owned an Atari ST will remember the "Atari-Twist" where to reseat certain chips (can't remember which ones were the culprits) one would pick up the ST and "twist" it (grabbing it with a hand on either side of the keyboard and turning one hand forward, and the other back a few times. It was a bizarre fix, but it always worked without fail.

 

I learned quickly that the nanoPEB also has a problem with the memory becoming unseated. I don;t know how many times I've had things start to act wonky, and realized that I suddenly no longer had 32K expansion memory...sometimes in mid-use. Luckily, being an exposed board, the fix isn't quit as weird as fixing the ST, but anytime I've had a problem with the nanoPEB (several times a week with the current heat wave hap'nin up here) it's been that the memory needs a little manual pressure.

 

Not sure if your problem is related Ω, but giving the nanoPEB's memory a little push from time to time, to ensure it's properly seated, always works for me.

 

And as I said, the little bugger is really affected by high environmental temperature.

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Before when it did not work. What happened, just no NanoPEB color bar screen or did it not boot to a color bar at all?

If the later then that usually indicates it is not receiving enough power to boot.

 

For a while there it was just a blue screen and no boot, so on the shelf it went. No amount of cleaning would fix the problem. Now after removing the main chip and cleaning the contacts and re-inserting it, I managed to get the REGULAR title screen. when that happens it can only be used as a 32K card as you get an error 0 when trying to access the CF card. Well I was shocked to get the NANO-PEB notice and it's been working flawlessly ever since... so of course I've not dare remove it from my TI out of fear it'll stop working again! :skull:

 

Actually, it does quite well. I use it all of the time. The problem is a good connection. The grounding fingers in the TI ports, both 4A and SS are often a problem. It could also be that the case of the SS keeps the nanoPEB offset too much. I do occasionally have a problem and it is clearly the connection.

 

I'll keep an eye on that because sooner or later it'll have to be removed. :thumbsup:

 

how many volts do you give to the V1, Omega ?

 

I'm using a 5v 1000mA power supply. I didn't want to go any higher as the documentation warned against it, and considering the build quality... I thought it was prudent to follow the warnings.

 

You might want to go a little above 5v, the NanoPEB has a voltage regulator that induces a 0.7v minimum drop - so a 5v power brick will only actually power it to 4.3v (at least the one I have). (I use a 7v brick that I had laying around.)

 

Omega, I've found two recurring issues with mine that being aware of has helped make it more reliable.

 

The first is that the card edge connector is rather poor quality - the pins flip up and cross sometimes. Examine it and make sure all your pins are straight and close to the slot entry point, if any are bent too high use a needle or small screwdriver to GENTLY press it back down nearer the card.

 

The second is that if it contacts the aluminum shell of the TI, it will (obviously) short the traces on the back. I haven't insulated the back end of mine yet but paying attention to this has helped. I first noticed when I noticed that it was way more reliable on my beige unit (with a plastic case! ;) ). So, don't let it touch or tape up the back of the NanoPeb so it can't short against the aluminum.

 

HTH.

 

Didn't know about the voltage drop, however when it works, it works perfectly, so I doubting a power supply issue. I'm really going to take your advice and pay extra close attention to the edge connector, this seem to be the cause of most peoples issues.

 

I understand about the aluminum trim, that part always made me a little paranoid, so I've always suck something between the TI and the Nano.

 

this is why mine's stuck on a speech synth i know is a good connection and i DONT TAKE IT OFF i just remove the speech synth from the TI.. that can handle the changes

 

This is also advice I'm going to follow. Once I do take it off the TI, I'll attach it to the extra synthie, if it works that way, it'll remain there!

 

Thanks guys I really appreciate the input.

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An easier way to solve the problem with a flaky side port connection is to get some Velcro "buttons" - adhesive on one side and Velcro on the other. Simply Velcro the peripheral to the side of the console using a button on each side of the port. If you use the industrial grade Velcro, it will take major movement to separate the two. I have used that method with the PEB cable and Speech Synthesizer effectively.

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An easier way to solve the problem with a flaky side port connection is to get some Velcro "buttons" - adhesive on one side and Velcro on the other. Simply Velcro the peripheral to the side of the console using a button on each side of the port. If you use the industrial grade Velcro, it will take major movement to separate the two. I have used that method with the PEB cable and Speech Synthesizer effectively.

Yeh I wish I had done this to my CC9900 sidecar, it might still be working today.

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