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The UAV Rev. D Video Upgrade Thread


Bryan

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Hmm, just curious, why would you need this for the UAV? Don't you just take the video cable out from the PCB?

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

 

Most of us do. But the UAV video output can be run out however you want. In a system without a video jack (such as a 400, 2600, 5200 or 7800), you can wire up whatever output you want to the terminal block or the pads of the bare board.

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Most of us do. But the UAV video output can be run out however you want. In a system without a video jack (such as a 400, 2600, 5200 or 7800), you can wire up whatever output you want to the terminal block or the pads of the bare board.

Interesting. I have the 400 and my UAV has shipped. I was just going to run the cable out like the original RF cable. But where would you mount the socket you bought? I assume it would involve cutting into the original case. [emoji848]

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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I've been known to install a standard jack inside the case and then run a standard cord through a pre existing hole or slot if it will fit and re assemble... keeps it pretty harms nothing and prevents the need to remember later what wire goes where and all those headaches should a cord need changing.

Edited by _The Doctor__
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I've been known to install a standard jack inside the case and then run a standard cord through a pre existing hole or slot if it will fit and re assemble... keeps it pretty harms nothing and prevents the need to remember later what wire goes where and all those headaches should a cord need changing.

Nice. I was thinking of tying a knot inside, myself, or use whatever method the original RF cable used. Maybe even use the original RF cable? I only want composite.

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

Edited by Starglider01
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I've run super video cord, because of the multiple shielded conductors inside them before, and even the beefier ones fit the holes I've used (normally the rf cord hole) I spool the old rf cord up zip tie it and leave it inside and if the taroid circle is still on the rf cord I wrap the new cord around it a couple times for as my pull out strain/preventer.... there are a number of multi conductor shielded cable to choose from that will fit the rf cable hole these days.

 

I'm not sure about the ps2 connector you chose, I usually go with a standard Atari monitor jack or Atari ST jack...

Edited by _The Doctor__
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With the 5200 you wouldn't need to cut into the case. If I can get one of these onto a small custom pcb, I could then use pc standoffs to mount it to the rf shield where the hole for the expansion port is.

 

As to the question of why use one of these, since the UAV can do both composite and s-video, if you wire it up correctly you'd have a single port that could use the standard playstation cables. That way, if my crt tv with the s-video input dies on me I can just switch to my other tv without having to re-wire it for composite.

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I used the standard 5pin din on my UAV 400, although I wish I had put it on the bottom case instead of the top part.

Very interesting. It looks good! So what standard cable do you connect to get S-Video or composite? I'm not familiar with 5 pin other than MIDI.

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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5 pin you're seeing in his photo is the standard Atari 8 monitor jack, it carries ground, luma, chroma, composite, audio and shield, luma,chroma is s-video.

You can buy cables just about anywhere but most peeps have been going to 8 bit classics etc for the cord. I just solder up my own...

Edited by _The Doctor__
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Yes the plug is technically the same DIN-5 physical connector used by MIDI and IBM XT/pre ps/2 keyboards. For example ive used a curly din-5 extension cable intended for pc keyboards on midi and atari video without issue. The key is the cable that breaks it out to the composite, audio, and luma/chroma or s-video connectors on the other end.

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5 pin you're seeing in his photo is the standard Atari 8 monitor jack, it carries ground, luma, chroma, composite, audio and shield, luma,chroma is s-video.

You can buy cables just about anywhere but most peeps have been going to 8 bit classics etc for the cord. I just solder up my own...

Thanks. So this cable would give me the composite and audio? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311883289519 (I'll also be using Bryan's audio mod.)

 

Who are good suppliers for the correct female DIN to put in the case, along with the outer ring as shown above?

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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I used the standard 5pin din on my UAV 400, although I wish I had put it on the bottom case instead of the top part.

What is your source for the case mount 5 pin din socket with circular surround as pictured? Can't find them anywhere.

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

Edited by Starglider01
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What is your source for the case mount 5 pin din socket with circular surround as pictured? Can't find them anywhere.

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

http://s.aliexpress.com/NB7vaEV7

 

and these are the cables I buy:

https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html

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Trying to get a Rev D installed into a 4-port 5200 with the 4050 socketed. Using Bryan's guide with the 4050 removed just gives me a dark green screen when powering on the 5200. If however, I remove the jumper on R2 and R3 and then install the 4050 back in place and place the UAV ontop of it, then the UAV produces nice clear video out. So I'm wondering if the jumpers have to be set differently between using the 4050 still or not? My understanding is the you only need the 4050 if you still plan to use RF and since I've power modded this 4 port already I hadn't planned on using the RF any longer. But I cannot get any of three UAVs rev Ds to work unless the 4050 is left in, using the current method as specified in Bryan's guide here:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/blog/695/entry-14462-install-uav-ac-in-the-5200

 

Or do I have a strange 4-port that must have the 4050 left in it?

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-
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Anyone able to assist? I'm kinda under a deadline to get this done for a customer. Has everyone else that has installed the Rev D. left their 4050 chips in place then I take it? Because again, that is the ONLY way I can get the board to work with the jumpers that have been specified.

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Anyone able to assist? I'm kinda under a deadline to get this done for a customer. Has everyone else that has installed the Rev D. left their 4050 chips in place then I take it? Because again, that is the ONLY way I can get the board to work with the jumpers that have been specified.

If it works like that I'd just leave it like that. No harm.

 

Thanks!, Starglider

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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If it works like that I'd just leave it like that. No harm.

I've thought of that, but part of this is that Bryan has asked me to put together a video and a write up similar to my 7800 installation. However, it seems odd that others here have installed the Rev D. UAV into their 5200s, but haven't stated if they left the 4050 attached, or if they used different jumper settings..etc. If Bryan's current procedures on his blog aren't correct, then he wants to know and it needs to be corrected. If they are correct, then it means there could be something off with these latest batches of UAVs that he is sending out, or...it could mean there is another variant to the 5200 4-port that needs to be looked at and again figured out for proper documentation for installing. In order to fit everything, I'm likely going to have to solder the UAV directly to the 4050, then desolder the original socket of the 4050, and then solder the 4050 directly to the mainboard. It complicates the installation I'm trying to do much more than I originally planned, and essentially makes the mod using his UAV on this 5200 permanent.

 

I forgot to mention, but I received three UAVs from Bryan last week, and all three do the same thing. So that is what leads me to it being an issue with the current procedures, or this current run of UAV boards. Another user in the 7800 forums, reported they couldn't get the UAV working in their 7800. They then tried another UAV they had received from Bryan and that worked. So at least in his case, there is a possibility of him having received a faulty UAV board.

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-
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Hi Crossbow -- I just recently modded two 5200's with the UAV and AC boards. I personally left the 4050, soldered the socket on top, then inserted the UAV. While it's a little wobbly, it works perfectly. While I may eventually go back and pull the socket off and solder directly (if i run into issues), so far I've had no problems.

 

Also - these two UAVs were from the most recent batch (i believe). Sorry about the sideways photo.

 

post-61342-0-44809800-1517172636_thumb.jpg

 

post-61342-0-31413300-1517172553_thumb.jpg

Edited by bszarek001
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Hi Crossbow -- I just recently modded two 5200's with the UAV and AC boards. I personally left the 4050, soldered the socket on top, then inserted the UAV. While it's a little wobbly, it works perfectly. While I may eventually go back and pull the socket off and solder directly (if i run into issues), so far I've had no problems.

 

Also - these two UAVs were from the most recent batch (i believe). Sorry about the sideways photo.

 

Okay so you left the 4050 in place. I had planned to put the RF shielding back onto this 5200. That isn't really possible if you leave the 4050 in the socket and solder the UAV to the 4050 or solder the socket you get with the uav to the 4050 and then plug in the uav.

 

I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has installed one of these newer batch of Rev D. UAVs into a 5200 that didn't leave the 4050 attached? Again it looks to me that Bryan's procedures state the 4050 can be removed, hence him stating the jumper you have to place on R2 and R3 if you remove the 4050, but at least on the 4-port I'm working with, it doesn't seem to work as written.

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Hey guys,

I am restoring and actually making a 600xl usable, by adding memory and svideo output to it.

I realized that populating the analog back end of the video output is not very cost effective if you dont have easy access

to the resistors, capacitors and transistors needed.

So, I would like to know if Bryan is still taking orders for UAVs.

I PMd him but he didn't answer. Or maybe Bryan design is now used by someone else to produce the pcbs.

Any help is appreciated

Mauricio

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I ended up reworking the UAV slightly so that I could keep the 4050 attached along with the shielding still. What I did was to cut the pins off the top pin headers used for the jumpers. That allows room for the socket that Bryan provides with the UAV to be then soldered ontop of the machine pin headers that go through the UAV. This allows the 4050 to be stuck into that socket and still be able to remove it easily if needed. For the jumpers, I just bridged the points with solder on the bottom of the board between the machine pin headers. This easier since those solder points are so close together anyway it doesn't take much to bridge them and you can remove it pretty easily as well. The whole thing is still shorter than the red coil to the right of it.

 

Anyone use the UAC in their 5200 yet? I attache my audio input from R50 to the iA1 in the upper left as Bryan's figures show in his 5200 installation, but to me the audio sounds a tad overdriven and can distort when the pokey is really be driven hard on all 4 channels. The Raster tracker is a good example to show this.

 

And yes, I now see the jailbars on the left hand side of the video that everyone has been talking about. However, they are only really noticeable on an LCD/LED type TV when using composite. On a CRT or when using the S-video out, I don't notice them much if at all.

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