Soldering Iron Recommendations

[Wyluli Wolf]

I'm a fan of Hakko myself. After using a cheap iron for years it's awesome by comparison. Weller is good as well. Hope you are happy with it! I typically set the temp on mine to 700F for most work.

On a side note, for de-soldering I like the Edsyn Soldapullt. It works well and holds up better than most cheap knockoffs. I find solder wick to be a pita for the most part.

Get some brass cleaning wire for the tip like THIS. Skip the wet sponge.

For solder I use 60/40 rosin core by alpha frye. I've heard a lot of folks use Kester as well.

If you plan to do surface mount and smaller bits you may want to get some solder flux.

Fume extractors are worthless unless you keep the item you are soldering within 2 inches of the fan. I'm not exaggerating so keep that in mind if you think about getting one.

 

Whatever you do, keep the tip of the iron tinned at all times!

Don't burn your fingers. It hurts.

[AtariLeaf]

Iit just seems to have a setting of 1 - 5 so i'm not sure how you set esxact temperatures with it but i assume you can get close by experimenting. I worry about burning boards

[Osgeld]

that weller is basicly a firestarter with a lamp dimmer

 

I would rather you get one of the Chinese 937 knock off, its frankly better

 

I also keep mine around 700, at work we like to document 680 for lead free, I will turn mine up and down as needed, long low heat is probably worse than quick high heat

[AtariLeaf]

What? They have good reviews. It's a fire hazard? I might have to send it back.

[Osgeld]

no that's just the name given to unregulated irons

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Fume extractors are worthless unless you keep the item you are soldering within 2 inches of the fan. I'm not exaggerating so keep that in mind if you think about getting one.

 

 

I disagree with this. I have a little Hakko fume extractor I use while I'm working. As long as what I'm soldering on is within about a ft thereabouts, it will pull the solder fumes away from me. Before I had one, I would feel the effects of the fumes after a few hours working on something. Especially with my eyes feeling like I'd been in a smoke filled bar for a few hours. Lately I've been doing something pretty much every night for several hours non-stop and haven't felt anything. The only issue I have with fume extractors is the noise. I like to listen to music while working (Who doesn't?), and it is pretty loud for such a little box setup.

[Wyluli Wolf]

 

I disagree with this. I have a little Hakko fume extractor I use while I'm working. As long as what I'm soldering on is within about a ft thereabouts, it will pull the solder fumes away from me. Before I had one, I would feel the effects of the fumes after a few hours working on something. Especially with my eyes feeling like I'd been in a smoke filled bar for a few hours. Lately I've been doing something pretty much every night for several hours non-stop and haven't felt anything. The only issue I have with fume extractors is the noise. I like to listen to music while working (Who doesn't?), and it is pretty loud for such a little box setup.

Maybe the Hakko ones work better. Reading reviews it seems everyone I look at has folks complaining of the same issue. Having it work within a foot would be wonderful...

[AtariLeaf]

I think I'll be returning it. (Weller WLC100CUL) Seems to only work well at max setting which is burning traces on the old pc boards I'm practicing on. Not really in the market for a temp controlled Hakko at this point. Not sure what I'll get. *sigh* I was hoping this solder thing wasn't going to be so difficult. Videos on youtube make it look like childs play. Maybe I just got a defective unit but I'll return it and see what else I can try.

 

I still haven't found any information on what makes the "CUL" version different than the original.

[+DrVenkman]

I think I'll be returning it. (Weller WLC100CUL) Seems to only work well at max setting which is burning traces on the old pc boards I'm practicing on. Not really in the market for a temp controlled Hakko at this point. Not sure what I'll get. *sigh* I was hoping this solder thing wasn't going to be so difficult. Videos on youtube make it look like childs play. Maybe I just got a defective unit but I'll return it and see what else I can try.

 

I still haven't found any information on what makes the "CUL" version different than the original.

 

Before you return it, assuming you have a have a bit more time to experiment, I suggest you get some liquid rosin flux to apply to the old solder you're practicing on. Flux makes solder melt and flow SO much more easily that once you've tried it, you wonder why or how anyone ever tried to work on a board without. Also, there's a good chance those old PC boards you're working on use lead-free solder which sucks for a lot of reasons. It doesn't melt evenly or easily, in my experience, and doesn't flow nearly as well as leaded solder. Liquid flux, applied with a pen dispenser or from a syringe bottle (my technique), makes a world of difference.

 

Also, while a crappy iron won't help, there *IS* quite a bit of technique and experience involved in working on old consoles and computers. You have to develop a feel on how much heat to use, how long to apply it, when you should back off and try again after adding more solder, etc.

[AtariLeaf]

Good points. This is why folks here recommend the 60/40 solder? Didn't realize the solder on these boards might be the problem. Also the tip that came with it seems way to wide. One thing with these pc boards is the solder points are a lot smaller than say a 2600 or a TI/99

[Osgeld]

turn it sideways, everone loves the smallest tip they can get their hands on, its actually not that great

 

also it helps to add a little fresh solder even on old boards as production solder is different than hobby solder, this mixes it up a little and the flux from the solder may break up oxidization on the old joint

Edited September 4, 2017 by Osgeld

[AtariLeaf]

Thanks guys. So much for me to learn.

[RevEng]

FWIW, you can solder badly with expensive gear, and you can solder well with el cheapo non-temperature controlled gear. (especially if you're only doing though-hole stuff) The biggest determination in your work will be the practice you put in, getting a feel for how much heat you need to put in, how much heat is dangerous when dealing with thin traces, avoiding poking or wiggling on traces, heating both parts of the joint, etc. I've heard tell of old ladies doing small-scale surface mount work in China with wood burning irons.

If you wind up using an el cheapo iron, don't ditch the wet sponge. Aside from cleaning the tip, you can use it to bring the temperature down between joints, which will help you stay in a useful temperature range. As others have said, non-controlled irons just get hotter the longer you work.

Good luck acquiring the new skill!

[Shawn]

Dunno much about this one but it's temp controlled and has a hot air wand as well as the soldering wand. Within Canada and free shipping to boot.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAKU-BK-601D-SMD-Brushless-Heat-Gun-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Stand-700W-/172602609533?hash=item282feacf7d:g:rbEAAOSwB-1Y3XSj

[Osgeld]

I have bought untold many of that style of hot air station (not the combo iron hot air station though)

 

the one I have personally gets used almost every day and going on 4 years, its still going, I buy them for work cause at the price for a hot air only version its like buying disposable pens, and in a all day every day situation they last about a year, over 3 shifts

 

the Chinese knockoff systems are very good for home / hobby / small scale production, hakko's, JBC's, paces, metcal's are great for 24/7 production, wellers are IMO overpriced junk with a government contract via the US Navy, maybe air force, even the expensive ones are not all that impressive

[AtariLeaf]

The first review I found of that Baku was certainly not glowing. The reviewer is irritating but the product review was eye opening. It actually falls apart in his demo.

 

 

On another note, will this solder suffice for my needs?

 

https://www.thesource.ca/en-ca/brands/nexxtech/nexxtech-71g-%282-5oz%29-rosin-core-solder/p/6400005

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Should be okay as I see it is actual .032 if you click on read more..

Edited September 6, 2017 by -^Cro§Bow^-

[CPUWIZ]

For fun, I just got a

TS100

the upgraded version. So far I am impressed, I will fiddle with it some more tomorrow.

[AtariLeaf]

Will this flux work for desoldering? I bought a 25 watt iron but I don't think it's hot enough. I've tinned the tip with 60/40 and use a solder sucker but I'm having a heck of a time desoldering small solder joints from old pc motherboards and sound cards. As recommended above I should try some liquid flux. However this is the only thing that I can find locally and not have to order and wait online for. I'm going to try a 40 watt iron and see if it makes a difference.

 

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-oz-regular-soldering-flux-paste/A-p6440023e

[Osgeld]

flux for pipes is pretty aggressive for electronics, also dont forget to add a little fresh solder to the joint you are working on, even if you are going to remove it

[AtariLeaf]

I didn't end up getting the flux but I did return the iron I bought. Also returned the solder sucker. It broke after about half dozen tries. So I went to a "Source" store and bought some desoldering braid so I'll try that and got a Weller 25 Watt SP25N and I'll try that. It was only $25 but that's all they had.

[AtariLeaf]

Another update - looks like I have to return this iron too. After an hour the tip didn't even have enough heat to burn through a piece of paper. And this is a Weller, a lower end one but still. Do I really have to spend a couple hundred (Canadian) for a decent soldering iron just to do very occasional work?

 

Is 25 watts not sufficient? They have a 40 watt one too. I'm not sure how hot is too hot for these things. Also, I've discovered I HATE solder braid. Doesn't work that great, sometimes the copper fibers get caught in the solder joint and stick then I have to desolder little bits of braid on top of everything else. And yes, I did add solder to the joint first. Didn't seem to help much. I need to find a decent solder sucker. Any brand recommendations for that? I also got a set of "helping hands" with a magnifying glass which is handy.

 

On the bright side, I did manage to successfully replace the "start" button on an XEGS which I was pleasantly surprised at. I was in the middle of doing the "option" button when this iron died.

[Osgeld]

https://www.amazon.ca/constant-temperature-anti-static-soldering-shipping/dp/B01M01LY34/ref=sr_1_47?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504992125&sr=1-47&keywords=soldering+station

[AtariLeaf]

I'll review that one Osgeld thanks what about this "sucker"?

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Metal-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-Silver-/231324106172?hash=item35dbfdbdbc:g:4ecAAOSwq7JUB3wz

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I'll review that one Osgeld thanks what about this "sucker"?

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Metal-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-Silver-/231324106172?hash=item35dbfdbdbc:g:4ecAAOSwq7JUB3wz

Looks alot like the first desolder pump I used to use when I first started to recap arcade monitor chassis. Just know the tip is usually made of teflon and so over time it will deform and melt. So getting new tips at the ready to put into would be advisable. As for basic irons, I'm surprised the one with the temp selects didn't work well for you. For many many years, I just used and old Weller 40watt that I still keep in my mobile tool kit when I make house calls. Takes a while to heat up..several minutes as opposed to 20 - 30 secs of my Hakko 936, but then that is how these cheaper irons are.