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Several strange 5200 problems: Sticks, Ms. Pac-man...Help


Christophero Sly

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I just got my 5200s up and running. I have a 2 and 4 port. I just purchased a rebuilt stick, but on the 4-port, the stick won't move all the way to the right. It stops just to the right of center screen (Super Breakout). I notice this effect in other games as well (Frogger, Defender). No such problems on the 2 port however.

 

Using 'Pokey Adjust' on the diagnostic cart, I get horizontal and vertical values that top out at ~150 on the 4 port, but over 200 on the 2-port. Of course, I don't exactly know what this means, but the discrepancy has me curious. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there something I can do about it.

 

Furthermore, Ms. Pac-Man, Pac-Man, Kangaroo (and probably other games) do very strange things on the 2 port, but not on the 4 port.

 

Ms. Pac-Man starts, plays the intro music: dadadadadadadah... and then immediately 'Game Over'. :?

 

Pac-Man will be eating his way along and then freeze in the middle of the maze with his mouth closed. He will remain like that until killed by a ghost.

 

Kangaroo perishes at random...just falls of the platforms to her death for no reason. This occurs with two copies of the game.

 

Actually, Kangaroo does strange things on the 4-port too. No random death, but after you lose the first life, the second kangaroo returns out of your control and on a different level. This second Kangaroo walks to the right, unstoppable, and eventually gets clobbered by a monkey or something. The third life returns completely normal. Again, this happens with two copies of the game.

 

I'm baffled by all this. It sounds like something that should be fixed by a good cleaning, but I've cleaned every cart and console as best I can. Moreover, these strange effects are consistent...not something I'd expect from a dirty cart or console.

 

I'm most concerned with the stick not moving all the way to the right on the 4 port. If anyone can help me out, I would be most appreciative.

 

CS

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I'm most concerned with the stick not moving all the way to the right on the 4 port.  If anyone can help me out, I would be most appreciative.

 

CS

 

Is this happening in all four ports or just one of them? One of the pins may be pushed in or dirty.

 

I have no idea what would cause the in game problems you are having. That is weird.

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I'm most concerned with the stick not moving all the way to the right on the 4 port.  If anyone can help me out, I would be most appreciative.

 

CS

 

Is this happening in all four ports or just one of them? One of the pins may be pushed in or dirty.

 

I have no idea what would cause the in game problems you are having. That is weird.

 

All four ports have this problem. All four give identical readings with the diagnostic cart.

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The 150 reading mean it's out of calibration. You need to adjust R132 (it's the pot just to the left of the red LED.

 

From your other problem it sounds like you may have some marginal chips in them. Cleaning the carts is definitely worth a try though.

 

Mitch

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The 150 reading mean it's out of calibration. You need to adjust R132 (it's the pot just to the left of the red LED. Mitch

 

So you mean the console is out of calibration? Is this a common problem with 5200 consoles, and/or is it more specific to 2 or 4 port models? This is very interesting news because if he didn't have a second console to test with, we would most likely assume that the problem was with the controller. It's also interesting because, as a seller of rebuilt 5200 joysticks (including the one Christophero Sly got from me), this would help explain some problems that some prior customers of mine have had - even after the joysticks test out fine on MY console before I ship them out!. I know I specifically tested Defender and Super Breakout and Pac Man with his and every other controller I fix. I really thought I was starting to lose my marbles, but this helps explain things a bunch! :grin:

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So you mean the console is out of calibration?  Is this a common problem with 5200 consoles, and/or is it more specific to 2 or 4 port models

 

Yes the console. Sorry I wasn't more clear on that.

It's doesn't really matter which model it is, they are both prone to electronic drift. Just one of those things about getting old. :roll:

 

Mitch

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The 150 reading mean it's out of calibration. You need to adjust R132 (it's the pot just to the left of the red LED.

 

Sorry, I'm a neophyte here...I take the shell off and there is a pot to the left of the 'power-on' LED that I can adjust while getting feedback from the diagnostic cart...is this correct?

 

sku_u was kind enough to look up the proper calibration values for me. If I adjust the pot until I get those readings, will my 4-port function properly with my rebuilt stick?

 

as a seller of rebuilt 5200 joysticks (including the one Christophero Sly got from me)

 

The controller is excellent on the 2-port. I couldn't be more satisfied. I was planning to inform you of this situation after I had some answers. I didn't want to burden you with a problem that was clearly with my console and not with the controller I received from you.

 

Cleaning the carts is definitely worth a try though.

 

have you tried cleaning the cart for grins?

 

I've cleaned things until I started to damage labels. The problems only occur on one console and the same problem occurs with two copies of the same game.

 

I think I need to take the shells off the consoles and clean the contacts from the inside...I didn't do that before...that would be a logical next-step.

 

Thanks for all the help. :)

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>Sorry, I'm a neophyte here...I take the shell off and there is a pot to the left of the 'power-on' LED that I can adjust while getting feedback from the diagnostic cart...is this correct?

 

Yeah, you can adjust that with the console on. I'd say it's a common problem. I've had to adjust that on 2 of my 3 5200's.

 

Also the bug chips on the 5200 motherboard can be moved from the

4 port to the 2 port. If your careful you should be able to move them over to your 2 port and then try your problem games.

 

I'm pretty sure any socketed chip on the 4 port can be moved over to the same spot on the 2 port board.

 

If that works, get a dirt cheap system only system from ebay, and steal its chips for your 4 port :-)

 

Charlie

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I adjusted the R132 last night to a HORZ calibration value of 112 and now the stick works perfect!

 

I'm sure glad I found that diagnostic cart on the floor in the backroom of a thrift.

 

Granted, the 5200 sticks have their problems, but I wonder how often a miscalibrated console is actually to blame for the majority of user disatisfaction.

 

Also the bug chips on the 5200 motherboard can be moved from the 4 port to the 2 port. If your careful you should be able to move them over to your 2 port and then try your problem games.

 

I'm pretty sure any socketed chip on the 4 port can be moved over to the same spot on the 2 port board.  

 

If that works, get a dirt cheap system only system from ebay, and steal its chips for your 4 port

 

Thanks for the info. I'll do that next...of course, I'll probably have more questions. :)

 

Thanks to everyone for all for the help...the 5200 is awesome!

 

BTW, can anyone tell me what the calibration values should be for the 2-port?

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So would the Pete's Test Cartridge from the AA Store be able to do this kind of calibration? I just sent in some carts for store credit and haven't decided what I want...

 

What are the calibration values for the 5200? I see sku_u knows them; are they listed somewhere?

 

My spare 4 port has the exact same issue (the cursor won't go all the way to the right in Super Breakout or Missle Command) and I'd like to get it fixed up....

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What are the calibration values for the 5200?  I see sku_u knows them; are they listed somewhere?

 

My spare 4 port has the exact same issue (the cursor won't go all the way to the right in Super Breakout or Missle Command) and I'd like to get it fixed up....

 

The values I got from sku_u were HORZ=112 +/- 1 and all other values between 100-124.

 

You may be able to just use Super Breakout as a diagnostic cart proxy for this job. Seems to me you could adjust the R132, with Super Breakout on, until the controller felt 'right' to you. You may lose some precision, but it should improve things. But, then again, I'm not an expert...I would get confirmation regarding the soundness of this approach.

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You guys are gonna love what I use to calibrate my 5200s with. I actually use SW:TAG for the 5200 to calibrate my stick pots. When you first turn on the game...your crosshairs should be center in the screen. If the ports need adjusting then the crosshairs will be off center. Basically, I just adjusted the pot on them until the crosshairs were centered.

 

Been great ever since...hehe...course for the price of a 5200 SW:TAG cart, your probably better off getting the test cart from the AA store..hehe

 

:wink:

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