After so many years, are our trusty TI's starting to fail?

[Omega-TI]

Hey Guys,

 

Over the past few years I've seen multiple stories of the video failing on peoples individual TI's. Fortunately, the F18A was an easy fix for most. Now I believe I'm starting to see multiple accounts of fire hose failures as well.

 

In a pro active attempt to get ahead of possible future 'issues' for our fellow TI'ers, I'd like to start this thread as a way of keeping track of specific failures and when they occur to see if a pattern is developing. If so, maybe some possible 'repair kits' to could be available for 'common failures' if they prove to exist.

 

So, if you've had any failure(s) on any of your TI equipment, please post specific information on the specific failure and the approximate date of the failure, as well as what fix you employed to correct the situation.

 

After the information starts flowing in, I'll start using this first post for specific errors, fixes and links to solutions.

 

Thanks,

--- Ω ---

[atrax27407]

After 16 years, the battery in my HRD16 (SNUG) failed, That was 6 years after its 10-year projected lifespan. Then 20 years after I bought it, the battery in my BWG FDC failed. Again this was 10 years after its projected lifespan. In both cases, I packaged the cards up and sent them off to Richard Bell to have the batteries replaced. Problem solved.

[Sinphaltimus]

On Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:14 PM I discovered the photosensor in my floppy died. I fixed it by shorting the wires as per arcadeshopper, but now my half height 5.25" drive cannot be write protected.

I don't know what kind of drive it is, but here are pics of it...http://atariage.com/forums/topic/256550-just-completed-the-80-track-disk-controller-mod/?p=3585698

[Ed in SoDak]

The TI is tank-like in build quality, for the most part. But some weak links have been known for years. Weak keyboard designs for some of them (Mitsumi) or just dirty key contact fingers on the good designs. All stock TI joysticks suck on so many levels. Foam used as a dust wiper for the cart port turns to dust itself over time. 4116 RAM is used by several vintage machines and is another known fail. Some console power regulator boards are much better-built than others. Wear and tear to port connectors.

 

On my setup, I placed a loose small 12v box fan on top of the ventilation slots in the case, which quickly cured any lingering heat in the console and heat-related lockups. I ran it on a lower voltage which was quieter but still cooled the console. No more coffee warmer!

 

Whenever I had a failure, I had enough spares laying about I just swapped in another and kept going.

 

Bad electrolytic caps. They age and dry out and are becoming an increasing problem in most any older device. TI used good parts, so we've had a better run than other things as old or newer. But still, our time is coming.

 

-Ed

Edited February 17, 2018 by Ed in SoDak

[+InsaneMultitasker]

Failure is nothing new. TI computers and their peripherals periodically require maintenance and repair, and have since the 80s. Batteries, capacitors, and regulators (together with the lack of heat sinks) are probably the more commonly replaced items. Logic chips and more sensitive parts are usually fine long-term unless they are subjected to static or improper use, such as pulling a card/connection while power is turned on.

[digdugnate]

so far, *knock on wood* mine has worked as well as the day it presumably was made. the power LED in mine died about 2-3 months ago i think- i just haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

[+OLD CS1]

I know we have seen several people come 'round with bad VDP RAM. Seems to be the most common failure. I recently found leaked caps in a console.

 

The battery on my BwG FDC is dead which causes all sorts of neat times and dates to be displayed on the Master Title Screen. I think the battery on my WHT SCSI might have been replaced right before I got it.

 

If that photo

 

On Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:14 PM I discovered the photosensor in my floppy died. I fixed it by shorting the wires as per arcadeshopper, but now my half height 5.25" drive cannot be write protected.

I don't know what kind of drive it is, but here are pics of it...http://atariage.com/forums/topic/256550-just-completed-the-80-track-disk-controller-mod/?p=3585698

 

It turned out to be the LED but your replacement is too big. What size do you need and what kind? I have some 3mm LEDs here in various colors I would be happy to drop a couple in an envelope for you. I always thought the LEDs in drives were IR but I guess not since you can use a flashlight and regular LEDs in your Tandon.

[Ed in SoDak]

>>always thought the LEDs in drives were IR but I guess not since you can use a flashlight and regular LEDs in your Tandon.<<

 

Quite possibly these LEDs have an IR component in their output or the spectrum of the sensor extended into visible light. You could test for any IR component if you had an IR filter for your digital camera and aim it at the illuminated LED in dim room light. Like how a VCR out of its enclosure that I was messing with, misbehaved when operated in strong room lighting but was OK in dim light. Which seemed to blame the sensors as broad-spectrum.

-Ed

[Sinphaltimus]

No worries OLD CS1. I picked up a variety if leds recently. I'm ok with no write protect.

[Omega-TI]

I know one part of the TI that is starting to fail BIG TIME, but it only seems to affect people opening up their TI's to clean or upgrade them. That brittle old cable that goes from the keyboard to the TI's motherboard. I cannot tell you how many times that has stopped a project in its tracks.