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"dead"game cart's may not be dead.


ginger

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I had several dead games I have gotten from eBay, I throughly cleaned the connections with Alcohol, and even a pencil eraser until they shined like new. They didn't work.

 

I have done this test, all the connections were fine on all of the games-- still they didn't work.

 

The cases were in perfect condition and so were the PCB's and EPROM according to the DMM I tested them with.

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Dont throw those suspectedly "dead" game catridges away.

I have seen several instances of what was presumably a dead chip when in fact the problem was rotted copper runs on the connector card to which the game chip is soldered.

 

Do yourself a favor if you have a "dead" game. Pop the game module out of the plastic cartridge.

Take an ohmmeter and ohm-out all the pins. See if there is a break by placing one lead on the TOP of the chip's pin (NOT where it meets the circuit board) and the other lead on the connector edge (where it plugs into the 2600 VCS.

 

Test all 24 connections.

 

Here is the pinout.

chip pin# -- connector pin#

1 - 1

2 - 2

3 - 3

4 - 4

5 - 5

6 - 6

7 - 7

8 - 8

9 - 9

10 - 10

11 - 11

12 - 12, 24 (short)

13 - 13

14 - 14

15 - 15

16 - 16

17 - 17

18 - 20

19 - 19

20 - 18

21, 24 (short) - 23

22 - 21

23 - 22

 

You may find such a small break that you will have to micro-solder a fine wire to replace the original copper run. The best wire for this is to strip the insulation off a large guage (small wire) audio type wire. use one of the small braids.

 

Use will find a magnifying glass is very useful.

 

DataAge game cartidges seem to be most affected by this copper rot, from what I have seen.

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