Heavy Sixer reset problem

[Pixellated Ghost]

Acts like the reset switch is constantly pressed.

 

Here's what I've checked so far:

 

Power supply after voltage regulator is 5.17V

Swapped the 3 socketed chips from a known working unit.

Checked the reset switch itself for proper operation.

 

Still does it after all that... what else could it be?

[tearex]

Swap out all electrolytic capacitors for new ones. Especially the one on the reset line (might be the only one on the motherboard, but there's more on the daughterboard and in the power supply). This is also a good general advice for old electronics (eventually they WILL fail), and I guess it is the most likely thing in this case. Use high temperature caps for the power supply.

 

Next, check your board for broken traces and/or broken solder joints.

 

If that doesn't cut it, replace all the semiconductors -- transistors, diodes and ICs.

 

If THAT doesn't help --- get another console.

 

Hope this helps,

[Super-Genius!]

From what you are descibing, my guess is the Hex Buffer. It is soldered

to the board, so you have to unsolder it. I would suggest putting a socket

in its place!! That hex buffer (4050) will cause more problems then you

can imagine. In fact, Atari REALLY messed up and had to make some major

upgrades to take care of the hex buffer chip blowing out with the least

amount of static electricity....

[tearex]

Ok, I was thinking of the wrong thing, forgetting that in the Atari the "Reset switch" has nothing to do with the reset line, unlike reset switches in other systems. So disregard what I wrote above.

[Pixellated Ghost]

From what you are descibing, my guess is the Hex Buffer.  It is soldered

to the board, so you have to unsolder it.  I would suggest putting a socket

in its place!!  That hex buffer (4050) will cause more problems then you

can imagine.  In fact, Atari REALLY messed up and had to make some major

upgrades to take care of the hex buffer chip blowing out with the least

amount of static electricity....

 

Well, I went ahead and replaced it but it didn't change anything, other than for some weird stuff going on that disappeared so apparently that was bad as well. Turns out it was C227 that was bad which upon replacing it, it worked. Also while I was in there I replaced the voltage regulator and the main electrolytic capacitor as a preventative measure.