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Troubleshooting an unresponsive 1050


ApolloBoy

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So I recently got a 1050 drive and started collecting disks again for my A8s, but this drive has been nothing but trouble since I got it. When I first powered it on, one of the tantalum capacitors inside exploded and the drive completely stopped working. After replacing the dead cap, it powered on again but it now seems to be completely unresponsive when connected to a computer. It spins up when powered on, spins up when a disk is inserted and the latch closed, but when the computer is turned on it doesn't do anything.

 

I've just replaced U1 (a 3086 transistor array) which I know is a common issue with the 1050, but that had no effect. I've also swapped out the RIOT chip with a known good one from my parts bin, but I still get the same result. I'm kind of at a loss here and I'm really hoping the drive controller chip isn't dead as I know those are fairly uncommon.

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If the drive is doing the head forward/backward seek to track 0 with disk spinning on startup, then the WDC controller, CPU, RAM, RIOT, and ROM are likely all good. At least enough to pass the self-test.

 

Have you verified the drive select switches are configured for drive 1 position? (for booting from the drive)

 

Looking at the back of the drive:

1050driveselect.png.06098c06bb7e75da1867e640f8bfaf62.png

 

If so, when the drive is ON, and you turn on the Atari, do you get "BOOT ERROR" messages, or do you go to the "READY" prompt? If you get "BOOT ERROR" - long pauses between each would be expected with the drive latch closed with no disk, and short delay with drive latch open.

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OK, so I think I can chalk up part of this to user error. I had forgotten that the XEGS needs to have the keyboard connected in order for it to load anything from the SIO port, so I hooked up the keyboard and sure enough the 1050 attempted to work. However, I'm getting a "BOOT ERROR" message with almost every disk I've tried save for Rescue on Fractalus. I also noticed that the AC adapter plug is very hot after only a few minutes of use, I don't think I remember that happening with my previous 1050 or even my 810 years ago.

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OK, the fact you're getting a "BOOT ERROR" means it's at least talking to the drive CPU!

 

Are you getting the fast or slow delay between each "BOOT ERROR" line? Any difference with drive latch open/closed?

 

Could be getting down to simpler things like dirty head, or out-of-spec RPM.

 

Are you getting a good 5V and 12V from the two rear-most regulators at the back of the drive attached to the heatsink?

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1 minute ago, ApolloBoy said:

I managed to get this figured out, apparently the 1050 needs to have the head be super clean in order for it to read much of anything. It seems to be working fine with all my disks now and hopefully it won’t develop any more faults.

Nice. You may find that due to the age of the disks, some types "shed" crud on the head moreso than others. Immediate indication is to look for lines being worn into the visible area of the disk, where the magnetic coating is being "scratched off". All of that stuff collects on the head, and increases the wear further. This is a major factor when imaging batches of old disks - head cleaning is usually due course after at least every few disks at times...

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On 12/29/2019 at 7:26 PM, ApolloBoy said:

So I recently got a 1050 drive and started collecting disks again for my A8s, but this drive has been nothing but trouble since I got it. When I first powered it on, one of the tantalum capacitors inside exploded and the drive completely stopped working. After replacing the dead cap, it powered on again but it now seems to be completely unresponsive when connected to a computer. It spins up when powered on, spins up when a disk is inserted and the latch closed, but when the computer is turned on it doesn't do anything.

 

I've just replaced U1 (a 3086 transistor array) which I know is a common issue with the 1050, but that had no effect. I've also swapped out the RIOT chip with a known good one from my parts bin, but I still get the same result. I'm kind of at a loss here and I'm really hoping the drive controller chip isn't dead as I know those are fairly uncommon.

Possibly a short somewhere, when a tantalum capacitor explodes it sprays molten metal, fine particles which may not be noticed.

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1 hour ago, BillC said:

Possibly a short somewhere, when a tantalum capacitor explodes it sprays molten metal, fine particles which may not be noticed.

I've since fixed the drive, the problems I had after replacing the tantalum cap were a combination of user error and a dirty drive head.

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