wierd_w Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 I used to think the same thing, but since have learned the issue was the lack of quality tools and supplies. Nearly all the irons out there (in the commodity goods sense) lack temperature control, and either get WAAAY too hot for electronics solder, or do not get hot enough (and thus do not flow the solder properly.) I suspect that the designs that have been cloned since forever, were initially designed for lead based solder, which is no longer really offered in real capacity in the US and EU markets. A quality iron has a nice digital temperature gauge and control knob in the hot-work station. Other commodities are noclean flux, and pals, which help to improve flow, prevent blobbing, etc. Since getting better kit, I have found my "I cant solder to save my ass" problems nearly vanished overnight. (the only remaining ones seem to be related to my early stages of carpal tunnel issues, and can be mitigated with a tool rest, and some good part holding gizmos) I don't really do enough soldering to justify the kit I have purchased, but I am not unhappy that I did; I am able to do that hot-work as needed now, and not have really terrible solder junctions. In this case, all you have to do is look inside the PSU, write down all the values on the caps inside, and their quantities, then go through with the sharpie, write the values and the +/- orientation of the caps on the back of the board, then order replacements. When they arrive, hold the HV board in a holding gizmo, use some solder braid to suck off all the old solder from the joins, and then gently tug on the old caps as you apply heat to the legs. Once they are all out, insert the new caps' legs into the holes, matching the values and orientations you wrote on the bottom of the board, then gently heat and kiss the legs with the solder and iron. Once they are all soldered down, go in with a wire cutters and clip the extra leg length off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 On 9/5/2020 at 12:54 AM, wierd_w said: SCSI ID is called LUN, Logical Unit Number. It's the jargon term. The SCSI ID is the target ID or number. A LUN, logical unit number, is how a drive with multiple addressable units is addressed. For instance, on my Amiga with a four-disc CD changer, its SCSI ID is 3 and each disc "slot" is a LUN from 0 to 3. For drives with no additional addressable units, like a hard drive or single disc optical drive, it has a single LUN of 0 and no additional LUNs are available. You can turn off additional LUN scanning on some SCSI controllers, otherwise drive detection can take a little to a lot longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 wow somebody is selling a new analog board. Pretty cool. Expensive but cool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373155648457 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olympicphysio Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Does anyone remember a game which was included on apple laptops around the early 1990’s where you created a race track ( very basic and in black and white) Once you had created the track you could then race it and it was timed. The graphics were very basic and you raced left to right on screen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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