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NTSC Atari 600xl Black Screen


Sinjinhawke

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59 minutes ago, Dr Memory said:

I thought about doing something along those lines, either soldering the pin to the board or putting a stub in the socket and soldering to that, but I was trying to see if I could fix my POKEY in such a way that I might be able to swap it out again later if need be.  I guess you could still do it with your solution, you'd just have to un-solder the one connection to remove it.

 

Agree that your way would be more stable.  I am not really that happy with the structural integrity of the two chips I fixed via graft (the POKEY and a Delay Line).  They do work though, so that's something at least.

I wasn't talking about removing the chip from the socket it is soldered to, but using it as a permanent attachment which then plugs into the socket on the PCB. If vertical clearance is limited using low profile sockets for both would reduce the increase in height, Millmax makes low-profile sockets. Below is a link from a post I made, the links are for the German website but Mouser is international.

The height of the shorter of the sockets in the link is about 1/2 that of a standard wipe socket, so using 2 stacked(1 soldered to the PCB and the other soldered to the IC) would have no significant height penalty over OEM sockets.

This wouldn't be an inexpensive fix as these sockets aren't cheap, but it would allow the IC to be removed/replaced as if it wasn't damaged.

Edited by BillC
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2 minutes ago, BillC said:

The height of the shorter of the sockets in the link is about 1/2 that of a standard wipe socket, so using 2 stacked(1 soldered to the PCB and the other soldered to the IC) would have no significant height penalty.

Ah, sorry, I misunderstood.  So that's actually a third approach!  Cool.

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Holding the donor pin in place while you solder it will be the hardest part.  Maybe you can try to use a small binder clip to hold the pin in place?  The clip would bridge to the pins on both sides of the donor.  This would hold the donor pin and also align it with the other pins, while simultaneously freeing up your hands.  Put the clip as far out on the ends of the pins as possible so that it doesn't suck the heat out of the pin while you are soldering, and so that you don't solder the clip itself.

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