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Replacement for CX 40 Joystick Retaining Ring. 3D Print?


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Well, it seems that Brad at Best Electronics is finally sold out of the "Boot retaining Ring CO12110"

 

Has anyone ever been able to source another option?  Would 3d printing one be an option?  I don't really know anything about 3d printing, but this seems like a fragile and very specific piece.  Is anyone willing to give it a shot?  I will buy a few if you succeed.

 

Here are the designs that resulted from this request

 

 

 

 

22 hours ago, wongojack said:

Well, it seems that Brad at Best Electronics is finally sold out of the "Boot retaining Ring CO12110"

 

Has anyone ever been able to source another option?  Would 3d printing one be an option?  I don't really know anything about 3d printing, but this seems like a fragile and very specific piece.  Is anyone willing to give it a shot?  I will buy a few if you succeed.

I'm willing to look into it. At the very least I can provide a 3d model of the part.

  • Thanks 1
19 minutes ago, emerson said:

I'm willing to look into it. At the very least I can provide a 3d model of the part.

Cool - I have the loose part, and I have tons of joysticks to test.  If you have a CX40 then you have the part too!

 

I've never measured anything for 3d printing, but I think I am going to give it a go with this.  Will be picking up some digital calipers this week.

 

Pictures for reference "Black Plastic Ring":

 

CX40_.jpg.174e69cc527b84d732e90bf43cc22dca.jpg

 

1087077000_CX40Joystickring.thumb.jpg.0a143a74d9050787ea6acc948bc2ad1d.jpg

If you try to remove this part you will almost certainly break it.  The technique I've settled on is to disassemble the base and remove the circuit board, spring, button, white core.  Then from below push in the 2 tabs on the ring next to the LONG hanging tab.  This requires force but also to be gentle.  From there you can work from above with a screwdriver or spudger to VERY gently work the long tab away from the edge and through its hole.  From there keep working gently on the remaining tabs.  Every time I have ever tried to work on the short tab, I've broken some part of the ring.

 

It probably won't make sense until you break one - LOL

Those things break super easy. I have an old stock one around somewhere. If I remember correctly they are not a very hardened plastic. Which would make me think that 3d printing might not work. Then again, I could be totally wrong..

  • Like 1

Well, you were right... I broke the big tab. Besides that it came out fine. I also removed the rubber boot before attempting to remove the ring.

 

Attached is the step file for the part according to my measurements. It is freely available for personal, non-commercial use. Note that when looking at the ring with the medium height tab closest to you, or at 6 o'clock, the clip directly to the medium tab's right side is not symmetrically spaced like the other tabs are. It's a bit closer to 3 o'clock.

 

I'll need to put the 0.2mm nozzle on my printer before I try printing it which is a project for another day. Looking at the amount of space available for the clips/tabs I think they could be beefed up a bit to accomodate potential failures caused by the part being 3d printed.

 

CX40_CO12110_edit.thumb.png.7ae12ae8d564bc40721ce38472a25fb2.png

 

CX40_CO12110.step

  • Like 1

I used a pair of dial calipers. If you get dial calipers spend the money on namebrand ones. I can't speak on digital calipers.

 

I think the pencil and paper drawing is an excellent start. That's actually something I should start doing. Your measurements are very close to mine.

  • Like 1

FYI that I messaged a number of people on thingiverse who had already designed CX40 parts and one of them posted this:  Atari 2600 CX 40 locking ring by Nynjah - Thingiverse

Oh nice! I was actually stopping in to post mine. For a first attempt I'm quite happy with the results. Print quality could be a bit better but it fits perfectly and holds firm. I can pull the rubber boot quite hard and it doesn't budge. In the image below with the two rings, the original is on the left and my print is on the right. All other images are of my print.

 

Seeing how my design works and other people have also designed a replacement I will probably not continue working on this unless there is a specific request.

 

IMG_20210328_150755729.thumb.jpg.b7ee01657941777746381e3903eeb0b2.jpgIMG_20210328_151027542.thumb.jpg.d4725450940d763538b7b18c2e6ba12b.jpgIMG_20210328_151143473.thumb.jpg.47558860a0c51218e1ad394f393cef33.jpgIMG_20210328_151211453.thumb.jpg.a1b8af8398a84736a8b90983e3d2d03a.jpg

Thanks! I printed the exact .step file I posted before. I do not plan to post on Thingiverse, but you can open that .step file and resave as .stl or I can post the .stl if you like.

 

@wongojack Is it possible to edit your first post? If I send you a .zip with both files maybe you could include it in the first post for others to easily find.

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