flickertail Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 I'm working on USB adapters for the Atari VCS "Classic" and "Modern" controllers so that they can be used with the 2600/7800/5200 systems. Is there a reason why I couldn't or shouldn't use a metal lined 15-pin Female DSub connector as the adapter's PCB-mounted female connector for the 5200 port? Something like this item? Here is an early version of the adapter that is working for the 7800. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dopy25 Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 1 hour ago, flickertail said: I'm working on USB adapters for the Atari VCS "Classic" and "Modern" controllers so that they can be used with the 2600/7800/5200 systems. Is there a reason why I couldn't or shouldn't use a metal lined 15-pin Female DSub connector as the adapter's PCB-mounted female connector for the 5200 port? Something like this item? Here is an early version of the adapter that is working for the 7800. I don't think it will fit. I have an adapter made by ikonsgr (he has an account here) and it looks like it was one of those connectors but had the metal lining removed. The 5200 has weird ports. The controller cables have notches on them to hold them into the port so there is a little extra space but I think the metal lining would just be too much. Good job on the adapter! USB controllers on an Atari? That's awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flickertail Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Dopy25 said: I don't think it will fit. I have an adapter made by ikonsgr (he has an account here) and it looks like it was one of those connectors but had the metal lining removed. The 5200 has weird ports. The controller cables have notches on them to hold them into the port so there is a little extra space but I think the metal lining would just be too much. Good job on the adapter! USB controllers on an Atari? That's awesome. Thanks for the response and the praise. It's disappointing. I was hoping for something easily available that could be added to a parts list sent when the board is sent to the manufacturer. I have a couple of spare 5200 cables on hand, so it won't stop me from developing a 5200 prototype, but that won't scale. If anyone has ideas for something that could be mounted to a PCB that would fit in a 5200 port, I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 The other issue I can see with that PCB mount port is that it is too shallow compared to the actual 5200 plugs. So yes, the metal shroud would get in the way and prevent it from seating in fully enough to stay put and make good contact. The only PCB mount connectors I've seen like this are the ones that Best installed onto their loopback test boards. But I'm not sure where they got them or if the loopback boards were pre-assembled back in the day by Atari and then he sold them. Having said that I do find the loopback board very difficult to remove from a 5200 when it is installed and have actually been thinking seriously about removing the ports on the boar and replacing them with short wire harness connectors instead that would give me something to grip onto better to remove them from the ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flickertail Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said: The other issue I can see with that PCB mount port is that it is too shallow compared to the actual 5200 plugs. So yes, the metal shroud would get in the way and prevent it from seating in fully enough to stay put and make good contact. I suppose I could hack up one of the many NeoGeo extension cables available, but that is 8-10 x as expensive, and much more work, so that approach doesn't scale well. I wonder if something like this item from DigiKey would work when paired with this male version for the PCB mounting. It's more in the $4 price range on parts cost, but at least there would be no added work require to cut up and solder wires. Never mind, I see "contacts must be purchased separately". Edited November 30, 2021 by flickertail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbelcher Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 When I built my little calibration / keypad test rig I used female soldercup DB_15 connectors and took the metal shell off as seen below. That lets them reach in far enough to make contact. They are fairly tight however. If you really want to make it smooth, after you take the metal shell off, solder the soldercups to the board, and pull off the other plastic piece that inserts into the 5200. (leave the plastic near the soldercup end) You will be looking at 15 little tuning fork shaped contacts that grab the pins on the 5200. Carefully use sidecutters to nip off the tiny projections that point inward at the end. They will still make contact but you won't need to force the plug in or out - it loosens it just enough. It's possible other brands fit better - so try the fit before you go clipping! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+x=usr(1536) Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 20 minutes ago, cbelcher said: When I built my little calibration / keypad test rig I used female soldercup DB_15 connectors and took the metal shell off as seen below. That lets them reach in far enough to make contact. They are fairly tight however. If you really want to make it smooth, after you take the metal shell off, solder the soldercups to the board, and pull off the other plastic piece that inserts into the 5200. (leave the plastic near the soldercup end) You will be looking at 15 little tuning fork shaped contacts that grab the pins on the 5200. Carefully use sidecutters to nip off the tiny projections that point inward at the end. They will still make contact but you won't need to force the plug in or out - it loosens it just enough. It's possible other brands fit better - so try the fit before you go clipping! Brief hijack: @cbelcher, do you have a writeup on that test rig anywhere? I'm close to building my own but that looks really tempting to put together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 3 hours ago, x=usr(1536) said: Brief hijack: @cbelcher, do you have a writeup on that test rig anywhere? I'm close to building my own but that looks really tempting to put together. It does look nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flickertail Posted December 2, 2021 Author Share Posted December 2, 2021 1 hour ago, 0078265317 said: It does look nice. Yes, it does look well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbelcher Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 Thanks! I put boards up at PCBWay https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Atari_5200_Controller_Test_Fixture.html I found the tactile switch footprint I used was a little off for the mix of switches I had around - so you may need to open the leads with pliers. Otherwise, components are spelled out on the board and in the PCBWay parts list. I think it would work well with a Wico and Y adapter - wouldn't need the 5200 controller for the keypad - could be this smaller and more reliable one. Originally I wanted to have just the Pokey calibration resistors in there, but then made it switchable so you can play with trimpot values too. Then added the keyboard so you can start a test cart and try the buttons... I've been happy, and still have a couple extra built up I think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+x=usr(1536) Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 18 minutes ago, cbelcher said: Thanks! I put boards up at PCBWay https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Atari_5200_Controller_Test_Fixture.html I found the tactile switch footprint I used was a little off for the mix of switches I had around - so you may need to open the leads with pliers. Otherwise, components are spelled out on the board and in the PCBWay parts list. I think it would work well with a Wico and Y adapter - wouldn't need the 5200 controller for the keypad - could be this smaller and more reliable one. Originally I wanted to have just the Pokey calibration resistors in there, but then made it switchable so you can play with trimpot values too. Then added the keyboard so you can start a test cart and try the buttons... I've been happy, and still have a couple extra built up I think. Thanks for that ? If I were to build a small quantity of these (say, 25 or so) for sale, would you have any objections to that? I'd be more than happy to give you full credit for the design. Won't be in a position to do this until after the first of the year, but am curious if you're open to the possibility. Probably better to shoot me a PM on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsoper Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 (edited) One possible problem in using standard cables from a 5200 controller is the 5V line on pin 12 is not brought out. A trackball has it and probably extension cables too. I always thought the best homegrown masterplay would be a genesis controller plugging into a 5200 trackball, the keypad part is already done. Edited December 2, 2021 by jsoper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 6 hours ago, jsoper said: One possible problem in using standard cables from a 5200 controller is the 5V line on pin 12 is not brought out. A trackball has it and probably extension cables too. I always thought the best homegrown masterplay would be a genesis controller plugging into a 5200 trackball, the keypad part is already done. I found this out myself when I used the cable from a plastics broken 5200 controller to repair my wico keypad. The wico had the +5 wire but I never figured out why. Luckily it isn't actually used or needed on the keypad itself that I can see as I'm using that recycled 5200 controller cable on that keypad controller and it has been working great for several years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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