Happy Warp 1050 7.1 Schematic

[+Larry]

3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

 

Of course, in the last 10 - 15 years (maybe longer?) Steve Tucker (“Atarimax”) has made repro Happy 1050 boards too; I have two of them for my only two 1050 drives. I have no idea how much the board design differs from the originals. 

Yes, I have one of Steve's Happy clones, but I don't believe that Steve ever made a Controller clone.  I've got a couple of the originals, and it really is a very useful upgrade.  It would really be cool if Brian made a new version.

[reifsnyderb]

26 minutes ago, Larry said:

He may be referring to this thread:

 

 There was also a guy in the Detroit area (?) that made a replacement controller and other small hardware add-ons.  Can't remember the name at the moment.  But I never actually saw one of those boards.  Edit: Bingo! -- Innovative Concepts, I think.  And I think the board was called the "Imitation Controller."

Thanks!  This may be enough to "guestimate" the spacing of the switches and LED.  I found it interesting that those jumpers are soldered in place, too.  I am now thinking those jumpers could be eliminated.

 

 

[reifsnyderb]

9 minutes ago, Larry said:

Yes, I have one of Steve's Happy clones, but I don't believe that Steve ever made a Controller clone.  I've got a couple of the originals, and it really is a very useful upgrade.  It would really be cool if Brian made a new version.

I am working on it.  I need to setup a truth table and verify the logic as the layout of the nand gates is a little odd.  I am also not sure what those jumpers were about or if they were necessary.

[+Larry]

I have the install docs and a template, if those would help.  The docs are fairly involved, and he does talk about the jumpers (presumably the same ones you are referring to).

[ijor]

44 minutes ago, reifsnyderb said:

I found it interesting that those jumpers are soldered in place, too.  I am now thinking those jumpers could be eliminated.

...

I am also not sure what those jumpers were about or if they were necessary.

 

The jumpers let you configure the priority between the software and the hardware. You could configure the jumpers so that software can override the write protect switch. Or you could configure the jumpers so that when you set the switch to the write protect position, it would be write protected no matter the software and firmware. I don't remember if there was some third possible configuration or not. It should be described in the Controller manual.

 

Yes it required soldering to change the jumpers.

Edited June 26, 2023 by ijor

[reifsnyderb]

2 minutes ago, Larry said:

I have the install docs and a template, if those would help.  The docs are fairly involved, and he does talk about the jumpers (presumably the same ones you are referring to).

That would be great!  I've done a search and didn't find them.  Could you post them?  Thanks!

[reifsnyderb]

5 minutes ago, ijor said:

 

The jumpers let you configure the priority between the software and the hardware. You could configure the jumpers so that software can override the write protect switch. Or you could configure the jumpers so that when you set the switch to the write protect position, it would be write protected no matter the software and firmware. I don't remember if there was some third possible configuration or not. It should be described in the Controller.

 

Yes it required soldering to change the jumpers.

Thanks!  I suppose I should leave the jumpers, then.

[_The Doctor__]

Yes, because soft setting can be over ridden by copy protection nuts!

[reifsnyderb]

Looks like I need to wait for some instructions on this Happy Control Board to be posted.  I just discovered that, as drawn, the schematic would result the NAND gate being shorted to ground.  Go figure.  Once I see what these switches are supposed to do I think I can sort this out.  What I just need is a confirmation as to exactly what the 3 position switch does in both jumper configurations.

 

Admittedly, I could take a good guess.  But, I'd rather not do that.

 

Edit to add:  Now studying the Altirra HRM for clues...

 

Thanks!

 

Edited June 27, 2023 by reifsnyderb

[BillC]

38 minutes ago, reifsnyderb said:

Looks like I need to wait for some instructions on this Happy Control Board to be posted.  I just discovered that, as drawn, the schematic would result the NAND gate being shorted to ground.  Go figure.  Once I see what these switches are supposed to do I think I can sort this out.  What I just need is a confirmation as to exactly what the 3 position switch does in both jumper configurations.

 

Admittedly, I could take a good guess.  But, I'd rather not do that.

 

Thanks!

I have 3 Happy 1050 Enhancement with controller modified drives, 2 of these upgrades were purchased via mail order directly from Happy 30+ years ago. I have things going on that will delay investigating, but I should be able to eventually determine the proper connections.

[reifsnyderb]

I think I've got this figured out but having more information to confirm it will always help.

 

I was using the Happy Control Board schematic from Jerzy Sobola (below) as a starting point as it's what I could find.  However, as the saying goes: caveat emptor.  So I make sure I figure everything out first to try and confirm the theoretical operation of the schematic.  This is how I discovered there would be a short, under certain conditions, and the sensor wouldn't detect anything.  That sent me on several hours of study to try to figure out how this thing would be connected.  Between the Atirra Hardware Reference Manual, some pictures of the Happy Control Board, the 1050 Field Service Manual, and tedious study, here it is at the bottom.  Links to other sources are here, too.

 

1050 Field Service Manual:

https://archive.org/details/1050FSMRebuiltAKH/page/n63/mode/2up

 

Happy Control Board Pics:

https://forums.atariage.com/topic/276627-1050-happy-controller-board-pics/

 

Original schematic I started with:

 

Corrected schematic:

Note that the addresses of $4000 and $9800 don't have the mirror addresses listed.  Also, when these addresses are called the indicated line goes low and it's movement to low is timed with Phi1 going low.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[cwc]

19 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

That would be great!  I've done a search and didn't find them.  Could you post them?  Thanks!

 

Happy 1050 Controller Installation and Usage Instructions.pdf

[cwc]

Regarding the jumpers on the Controller Board:

 

"In the factory set configuration the three position switch of the CONTROLLER will affect the write protect until a software protect/unprotect command is issued, such as from the program options menu of the VARP SPEED SOFTVARE After the protect/unprotect command is issued the three position switch has no effect until that mode is reset. Therefore, in this mode the software has priority over the manual switch.

In the first alternate configuration all three factory jumpers are cut and jumpers are installed in the three adjacent positions. In this mode the software command has effect only when the three position switch is in the NORMAL or down position Thus, in this alternate configuration the manual switch setting has priority over the software command.

 

In the last alternate configuration the center one of the three factory jumpers is cut, leaving the other two original jumpers. In this mode the manual switch and the disk notch have no effect. Disk writing is prohibited until the unprotect command is issued through software. This can prevent unauthorised writing to disks if only you know how to execute the unprotect command."

[reifsnyderb]

10 minutes ago, cwc said:

Regarding the jumpers on the Controller Board:

 

"In the factory set configuration the three position switch of the CONTROLLER will affect the write protect until a software protect/unprotect command is issued, such as from the program options menu of the VARP SPEED SOFTVARE After the protect/unprotect command is issued the three position switch has no effect until that mode is reset. Therefore, in this mode the software has priority over the manual switch.

In the first alternate configuration all three factory jumpers are cut and jumpers are installed in the three adjacent positions. In this mode the software command has effect only when the three position switch is in the NORMAL or down position Thus, in this alternate configuration the manual switch setting has priority over the software command.

 

In the last alternate configuration the center one of the three factory jumpers is cut, leaving the other two original jumpers. In this mode the manual switch and the disk notch have no effect. Disk writing is prohibited until the unprotect command is issued through software. This can prevent unauthorised writing to disks if only you know how to execute the unprotect command."

It looks like the switch should act in this fashion on the corrected schematic.  Thanks for posting!

[reifsnyderb]

I realized it made more sense to run the cable out the front of the board.  It also turned out I could "find" the space to squeeze everything into the original footprint.  So, here's the newest rendering:

 

[macsonny]

13 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

I realized it made more sense to run the cable out the front of the board.  It also turned out I could "find" the space to squeeze everything into the original footprint.  So, here's the newest rendering:

 

SO what are your plans?

 

[reifsnyderb]

4 hours ago, macsonny said:

SO what are your plans?

 

I've got the control board mostly laid out.  However, I need to find the footprint for the switches.  The toggle switches, thus far, are the single most expensive part of the control board and I am not happy about that.  (Over $4 per switch????)  At some point I'll get the new main board and control board made for testing.

[+kheller2]

23 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

I've got the control board mostly laid out.  However, I need to find the footprint for the switches.  The toggle switches, thus far, are the single most expensive part of the control board and I am not happy about that.  (Over $4 per switch????)  At some point I'll get the new main board and control board made for testing.

Toggle?  bleh... why not pushbutton and have it light up.

[reifsnyderb]

1 hour ago, kheller2 said:

Toggle?  bleh... why not pushbutton and have it light up.

Toggle switches were used originally.  Also, the one switch requires 3 positions, with a center position that is not connected.

[macsonny]

On 6/28/2023 at 11:41 PM, reifsnyderb said:

I've got the control board mostly laid out.  However, I need to find the footprint for the switches.  The toggle switches, thus far, are the single most expensive part of the control board and I am not happy about that.  (Over $4 per switch????)  At some point I'll get the new main board and control board made for testing.

Might be a bit expensive but still cheaper than a cup of decent coffee!!!!

 

[reifsnyderb]

12 hours ago, macsonny said:

Might be a bit expensive but still cheaper than a cup of decent coffee!!!!

 

I agree.  I just always consider that a number of people compare the price of something made by the millions, that has an enormous quantity of scale, with something made by the tens then expect the pricing to be similar.

[AtariGeezer]

On 6/27/2023 at 6:01 AM, reifsnyderb said:

I think I've got this figured out but having more information to confirm it will always help.

 

I was using the Happy Control Board schematic from Jerzy Sobola (below) as a starting point as it's what I could find.  However, as the saying goes: caveat emptor.  So I make sure I figure everything out first to try and confirm the theoretical operation of the schematic.  This is how I discovered there would be a short, under certain conditions, and the sensor wouldn't detect anything.  That sent me on several hours of study to try to figure out how this thing would be connected.  Between the Atirra Hardware Reference Manual, some pictures of the Happy Control Board, the 1050 Field Service Manual, and tedious study, here it is at the bottom.  Links to other sources are here, too.

 

1050 Field Service Manual:

https://archive.org/details/1050FSMRebuiltAKH/page/n63/mode/2up

 

Happy Control Board Pics:

https://forums.atariage.com/topic/276627-1050-happy-controller-board-pics/

 

Original schematic I started with:

 

Corrected schematic:

Note that the addresses of $4000 and $9800 don't have the mirror addresses listed.  Also, when these addresses are called the indicated line goes low and it's movement to low is timed with Phi1 going low.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did this 7 years ago with the Smirk 1050 Clone

 

 

Edited July 13, 2023 by AtariGeezer

[reifsnyderb]

23 minutes ago, AtariGeezer said:

I did this 7 years ago with the Smirk 1050 Clone

 

 

It looks like I am figuring right with the LED.  Why did you get rid of the jumpers?

 

 

 

[reifsnyderb]

I wasn't sure about the toggle switch footprint as there appears to be more than one footprint for mini toggle switches.  So, I combined them.

 

 

 

After looking at the above design, I realized the board could be even smaller.  So, I updated it with this....

 

 

Edited July 13, 2023 by reifsnyderb

[AtariGeezer]

2 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

It looks like I am figuring right with the LED.  Why did you get rid of the jumpers?

 

 

 

Because the Smirk board didn't have them