Replacing 7800 Power button

[Silver Back]

It's a pain to turn my 7800 on and off again so assume it's time to replace the buttons on the board.  I'm by no means great at soldering but I've replaced batteries in NES carts and installed a few mod chip before.   Is it easy to order the switches and attempt on my own with some familiarity at soldering?  Or is it more advanced. 

 

I know I read somewhere that it wasn't recommended for a novice but I can't find the post anymore.   Is there anything in particular I should be aware of that makes it difficult to do?  Just looking for some general advice and tips I guess. Thanks. 

[john_q_atari]

The 4 leads on the switch are bent I assume to better grab the circuit board holes they go through. This is different than a straight lead going through the hole. This can cause a slight bit of solder to hang around those bent leads causing difficulty in removing the switch. I recommend clipping the leads off the switch with "flush cutters" to remove the switch. Then you can remove the solder from each of the 4 holes one by one to clear them. (As opposed to getting all the solder clear of the 4 holes simultaneously in order to be able to remove the switch.) Once all 4 holes are clear you can push in the replacement switch and solder the 4 leads. Hope this makes sense.

Edited July 18, 2023 by john_q_atari

[+x=usr(1536)]

2 hours ago, Silver Back said:

It's a pain to turn my 7800 on and off again so assume it's time to replace the buttons on the board.  I'm by no means great at soldering but I've replaced batteries in NES carts and installed a few mod chip before.   Is it easy to order the switches and attempt on my own with some familiarity at soldering?  Or is it more advanced.

What are the symptoms you're running into?

 

FWIW, button replacement isn't difficult if you have some experience soldering and desoldering through-hole components.  More:

2 hours ago, Silver Back said:

I know I read somewhere that it wasn't recommended for a novice but I can't find the post anymore. Is there anything in particular I should be aware of that makes it difficult to do?  Just looking for some general advice and tips I guess. Thanks. 

IMHO, there isn't anything particularly special about replacing them, but I would strongly recommend using the Console5 switches.  I've used these myself and can vouch for their fitment.  More:

35 minutes ago, john_q_atari said:

The 4 leads on the switch are bent I assume to better grab the circuit board holes they go through. This is different than a straight lead going through the hole. This can cause a slight bit of solder to hang around those bent leads causing difficulty in removing the switch. I recommend clipping the leads off the switch with "flush cutters" to remove the switch. Then you can remove the solder from each of the 4 holes one by one to clear them. (As opposed to getting all the solder clear of the 4 holes simultaneously in order to be able to remove the switch.) Once all 4 holes are clear you can push in the replacement switch and solder the 4 leads. Hope this makes sense.

Mine didn't require flush cutters to snip them out before clearing the holes.  However, I did put some fresh solder onto the existing solder joins before trying to remove the old stuff, which may have helped.  Not to say that you're wrong; different machines could very well need different approaches and it's good to be aware of both.

 

There isn't a huge amount of crease in the legs on either the old or new switches, so they should come out of / go into the through holes with only a little wiggling.

[Silver Back]

1 hour ago, x=usr(1536) said:

What are the symptoms you're running into?

 

If I don't press the power button hard and deliberately the console won't power on.   Otherwise it'll come on for a split second or not at all.   Same issue when powering off.   But once it's on it plays fine.  I noticed the same with pause but not as bad. 

 

1 hour ago, john_q_atari said:

The 4 leads on the switch are bent I assume to better grab the circuit board holes they go through. This is different than a straight lead going through the hole. This can cause a slight bit of solder to hang around those bent leads causing difficulty in removing the switch. I recommend clipping the leads off the switch with "flush cutters" to remove the switch. Then you can remove the solder from each of the 4 holes one by one to clear them. (As opposed to getting all the solder clear of the 4 holes simultaneously in order to be able to remove the switch.) Once all 4 holes are clear you can push in the replacement switch and solder the 4 leads. Hope this makes sense.

Yes I think I understand what your saying. I'll keep it in mind. 

 

1 hour ago, x=usr(1536) said:

IMHO, there isn't anything particularly special about replacing them, but I would strongly recommend using the Console5 switches.  I've used these myself and can vouch for their fitment.  More:

Ok I just did want to get in above my head.   I figured I could do it but I'd hate to jump in blind.  I'll get the switches from them. 

[Silver Back]

1 hour ago, x=usr(1536) said:

I would strongly recommend using the Console5 switches.  I've used these myself and can vouch for their fitment.  More:

Looks like their out of stock.  I guess I'll turn to fleabay then?

[+x=usr(1536)]

5 minutes ago, Silver Back said:

Looks like their out of stock.  I guess I'll turn to fleabay then?

Swap it with Pause, which is probably the least-used button.

[+DrVenkman]

These are pretty much standard electronics parts, still available in about 2 dozen variations today from any number of electronics retailers for a 50 cents each or less. Shipping charges might make it prohibitive, but Digi-Key, Mouser, Jameco or even eBay will probably get you a bag of 10 switches for just a few bucks. You’d have to check the contact spacing, but the general style you’re looking for is basically like this. 

 

 

EDITED: Better link.

[Bratwurst]

It's been a minute since I've peeked inside the 7800 but I believe they use 12mm x 12mm square tact switches. The height of the switch is important to match for the button cap's plunger to interface properly. Not too long, not too short.

 

According to Console5 that height is 4.5mm:

 

https://console5.com/store/tactile-switch-12mm-x-4-5mm-atari-7800-power-pause-select-reset.html

 

Edit: Should be able to find these all over Aliexpress.

 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832770119329.html

Edited July 18, 2023 by Bratwurst

[+-^CrossBow^-]

1 hour ago, Bratwurst said:

It's been a minute since I've peeked inside the 7800 but I believe they use 12mm x 12mm square tact switches. The height of the switch is important to match for the button cap's plunger to interface properly. Not too long, not too short.

 

According to Console5 that height is 4.5mm:

 

https://console5.com/store/tactile-switch-12mm-x-4-5mm-atari-7800-power-pause-select-reset.html

 

Edit: Should be able to find these all over Aliexpress.

 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832770119329.html

This is the way....

 

Although I order Alps branded one from mouser that cost a little over a $1 each but I can get them in a matter of days.

 

[Silver Back]

Ok thanks for the information @DrVenkman @Bratwurst and @-^CrossBow^- along with everybody I already responded to.   I especially appreciate the information on the importance of height.   I'll find some 12 x 12, 4.5 mm tall switches and attempt it when they come. 

[+jeremiahjt]

Best Electronics used to sell replacement switches, they probably still have some.  I ordered some from them with the goal of having someone solder them in. My power button kept getting worse and worse, and in a fit of rage and a great desire to play 7800, I did it myself. I took a hammer and screwdriver to the buttons to get them out. I then put in the replacements with no solder of course. Every button worked perfectly. For years. I eventually had them soldered in, but up until then I never had a problem with them.