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Power supply options?


bishb25

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Hi All,

 

   This might be more therapeutic rant than a plea for help, but here's what's going on. I bought a Colecovision off of e-bay and while I was testing it the 4700uf cap exploded in the power supply. So, looking around the internet I found a few options.

 

  • Console5 rebuild kit (out of stock)
  • ColUSB (out of stock)
  • Keelog RetroPower PSU (My bank keeps declining the sale for some reason)
  • E-bay used PSU's (unreliable, could be fine, could be DOA)
  • E-bay new, old stock 

 

E-bay new, old stock seems to be my only option right now, but how much can you trust a 40 year old PSU that's been sitting in a warehouse all these years? There is a ColUSB style power supply on Amazon, but it's $110. I'd rather not spend more on a power supply than I paid for the whole console & games. While I am mostly confident I could rebuild my PSU if I could get the parts, I don't think I have the "know how" to build a PSU from scratch.

 

Are there any options I missed?

 

Thank You

Edited by bishb25
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There is this that seems fairly new:

 

This is just an adapter. You'll need to buy the specific power brick it needs. You can get that brick from Digikey or mouser for about $38 or so plus shipping.

 

If you are up to rebuilding, you can get the parts from Digikey or mouser. The caps are no issue. But I believe the other parts like the regulator ICs at EOL. Meaning once the stock is gone, it's gone.

 

 

Edited by nick3092
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1 hour ago, Boschloo said:

This is the one you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114258620533  But I do warn you it's $69.

That's almost the exact same power brick that is used with the adapter I posted above. One letter difference in the part number. Price is in the same neighborhood though, and can save the hassle of ordering from 2 different places.

 

But Lundy has a good reputation. I'd rather order the adapter from them and the brick from a genuine parts house like Digikey or mouser than a random eBay seller. Especially if this is the seller I think it may be. But that's just me. 

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3 minutes ago, nick3092 said:

That's almost the exact same power brick that is used with the adapter I posted above. One letter difference in the part number. Price is in the same neighborhood though, and can save the hassle of ordering from 2 different places.

 

But Lundy has a good reputation. I'd rather order the adapter from them and the brick from a genuine parts house like Digikey or mouser than a random eBay seller. Especially if this is the seller I think it may be. But that's just me. 

@Ruggers Customs recommended that PSU I posted, and that's all I needed.

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2 hours ago, Boschloo said:

@Ruggers Customs recommended that PSU I posted, and that's all I needed.

That will soon be changing...as @Ruggers Customs has been testing Lundy's PSU setup and it is better than the older setup you listed above. Main reason is that the one you listed is only a 2 prong supply. This is largely the reason for the noise that has been complained about. The other meanwell that is recommended with Lundy's adapter is a 3 prong proper grounded PSU so it is a better supply to use in this application.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

That will soon be changing...as @Ruggers Customs has been testing Lundy's PSU setup and it is better than the older setup you listed above. Main reason is that the one you listed is only a 2 prong supply. This is largely the reason for the noise that has been complained about. The other meanwell that is recommended with Lundy's adapter is a 3 prong proper grounded PSU so it is a better supply to use in this application.

 

 

I was just comparing the difference between the bricks and the only thing that jumped out on the data sheets is the proper earth ground on the one recommended by Lundy vs two prong on the eBay auction. I figured that would probably allow for better noise filtering/rejection. 

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1 minute ago, nick3092 said:

I was just comparing the difference between the bricks and the only thing that jumped out on the data sheets is the proper earth ground on the one recommended by Lundy vs two prong on the eBay auction. I figured that would probably allow for better noise filtering/rejection. 

Yes, and I suspect this is also why my Keelog supply works better than the other one listed on Ebay. My only real issue with the Keelog supply I have is how darn short the cables are. The PSU cord is less than 3ft and from the PSU to the CV is again like only 2ft or something. As a result you need the a power strip handy or ensure the CV is near an outlet when I use that PSU.

 

Not sure why @bishb25 is having issues ordering it? I know they are located in the EU and mainly know for making tracking/logging devices for companies to use to track employee computer usage. So perhaps there is some restrictions involved in that or something? Then again, I ordered my Keelog supply like 2 years ago I think so perhaps something has changed from then to now as well.

 

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4 hours ago, Boschloo said:

This is the one you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114258620533  But I do warn you it's $69.

I saw that and the price + shipping scared me off. I also didn't realize it was a new supply, I thought it was old stock.

34 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Not sure why @bishb25 is having issues ordering it? I know they are located in the EU and mainly know for making tracking/logging devices for companies to use to track employee computer usage. So perhaps there is some restrictions involved in that or something? Then again, I ordered my Keelog supply like 2 years ago I think so perhaps something has changed from then to now as well.

 

On my first attempt to order I got a text from my banks fraud prevention dept. I confirmed that I was indeed the one making the purchase and they said wait 20 minutes before I tried again. This happens when I try to make online purchases and the seller is processing payments in eastern Europe. On the second attempt, a half hour later, Keelog said there was a problem with my payment (meaning my card was declined). I kind of took the trouble ordering as a sign, and gave up.

 

12 hours ago, nick3092 said:

There is this that seems fairly new:

 

This is just an adapter. You'll need to buy the specific power brick it needs. You can get that brick from Digikey or mouser for about $38 or so plus shipping.

 

If you are up to rebuilding, you can get the parts from Digikey or mouser. The caps are no issue. But I believe the other parts like the regulator ICs at EOL. Meaning once the stock is gone, it's gone.

 

 

 I read that thread, but forgot to mention it. When I did the search for the compatible power supply it came back with some high prices. I must have missed the $38 ones. Still $25 + shipping, and $38 + shipping is more than I was hoping to spend. 

If that's just the price I have to pay for a reliable, clean power supply then I guess I have to stop being a cheep skate. The Keelog + express shipping was ~$60 and I was willing to pay that, so I don't know why I'm balking at some of these other prices.

 

How feasible would it be to skip the adaptor and just wire in the chord from my dead Coleco PSU directly to the output of the Meanwell?

 

If I can get a parts list so I know what to buy, I suppose I could source the parts and do the rebuild. The Cap I mentioned is blown and most likely a voltage regulator. Currently the PSU puts out -5V / +18V / .8V

 

 

Thanks for all of the recommendations & advice. 

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You can piece to getter the cap values and other part numbers you need for the Console5 website and wiki. But honestly, I wouldn't bother. These bricks are fickle. I have one that the 5v rail drops to 4.7 under load and starts glitching out. I replaced everything except the resistors (and I checked all of those except the 0.47 and 0.82 because I don't have any equipment that can accurately measure that low). And it still sags to 4.7 under load.

 

Hopefully nothing got fried on your Coleco in the process of the 5v rail blowing. Your 12 is high too, that could potentially have damaged something as well. 

 

If you go the Lundy route (which is what I would recommend), the required meanwell brick is about $38 + shipping from reputable distributors (double check the part number incase I copied and pasted the wrong one):

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/GP25A13A-R1B?qs=9HM%2FdYkAMWxfTvoxh7QCoA%3D%3D


https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/GP25A13A-R1B/7703336?s=N4IgTCBcDaIOIAUwFYCCBGAzKgtAJXQCEQBdAXyA

 

You'll need an IEC power cable, but if you are like me you probably have a big box of them sitting around doing nothing. They multiple like tribbles.

 

Possibly you could just replace the output end of the meanwell brick with the one from your brick. I have no idea if the Lundy adopters do anything or are completely passive. But why risk messing something up in the process to save $25?

 

As for Keelog, it uses a meanwell module inside, but the wire lengths on both input and output are rather short. And their build quality is a little suspect. @-^CrossBow^- made a thread about it here you can find if you search when he bought one. I was interested at first, but his post turned me off it.

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Just now, nick3092 said:

As for Keelog, it uses a meanwell module inside, but the wire lengths on both input and output are rather short. And their build quality is a little suspect. @-^CrossBow^- made a thread about it here you can find if you search when he bought one. I was interested at first, but his post turned me off it.

Not sure I talked about the one for the Atari 8bit that I have and use? But yes, the first PSU for the CV they sent me didn't even fit in the CV console as the size of the adapter plug was apparently 3D printed at the wrong scale and was a bit too small in all dimensions including the openings for the power pins to fit through. But they did send me a replacement pretty quickly (Within a month as I recall?), and that one fit great and has been a decent supply. I tend to use it and my ColUSB in the lab.

 

But the main issue I have with my Keelog supplies is the short cables. That is why I mainly use them in the lab where I have much closer access to outlets on the workbench vs the game room. Perhaps they have corrected for the short cables since that time though?

 

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Just now, -^CrossBow^- said:

Not sure I talked about the one for the Atari 8bit that I have and use? But yes, the first PSU for the CV they sent me didn't even fit in the CV console as the size of the adapter plug was apparently 3D printed at the wrong scale and was a bit too small in all dimensions including the openings for the power pins to fit through. But they did send me a replacement pretty quickly (Within a month as I recall?), and that one fit great and has been a decent supply. I tend to use it and my ColUSB in the lab.

 

But the main issue I have with my Keelog supplies is the short cables. That is why I mainly use them in the lab where I have much closer access to outlets on the workbench vs the game room. Perhaps they have corrected for the short cables since that time though?

 

I thought I recall some build issues inside too, like shoddy soldering and the earth ground was floating?

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Just now, nick3092 said:

I thought I recall some build issues inside too, like shoddy soldering and the earth ground was floating?

Oh yeah good point! I took apart the original CV supply they sent me when they requested I just keep it. And yes some of the wiring was a hot glue mess in side and the ground wasn't supposed to be floating, but it was and I corrected that as well. I still have the PSU but as the end of it doesn't fit an actual CV, it just sits in a box collecting dust. I didn't take apart the replacment because they are glued shut and I didn't want to risk an issue with them if I had to send it back for any reason. I haven't had to, but yeah some of that work inside was a bit off. Again, I would hope some of these issues have been corrected for since? I see they now have even more options for PSUs as compared to when I bought mine.

 

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4 hours ago, Boschloo said:

@Ruggers Customs recommended that PSU I posted, and that's all I needed.

I did?  Are you sure?  I might have said positive things about it when he first released it years ago but after testing on multiple consoles shortly after I recommended publicly to NOT use HDTV1080p's power supply.  I jumped the gun and learned my lesson but again, I amended my opinion shortly after (See attached screen shots from AA about 4 years ago).

 

Why?  Because it had a crap ton of noise that was shown in the video signal in several Colecovision variations. When I presented this to him in private, he couldn't be bothered by it and completely ignored my complaints.  His response below further strengthens my claim as I'm not going to post our private conversation here.  I'm still irritated by that exhange so I'll leave it at that.

 

How is Lundy Electronic's better?  Likely because he uses a Meanwell variation that uses a grounded plug.  A variation I didn't know Meanwell made.  That will eliminate most if not all of the noise from a switchmode power supply.  Also, John Lundy isn't some quick, cash grab fly by night modder but an actual Engineer.  His setup has not only been thoroughly tested by him with the necessary proper equipment but by me on several NTSC Colecovision revisions along with a PAL Colecovision.

 

It's been tested by me so far with the following video outputs-

Composite video - Excellent

RF video - Good as can be because RF is horrible to begin with

TMS-RGB - Excellent

F18a- TBD but in theory should be fine

 

 

Scalers used in testing for TMS-RGB

Retrotink 2x Scart

Rad 2x cable with Genesis/Mega Drive 9 pin video standard

Retrotink 5x

OSSC

Framemeister

 

Anything Lundy Electronics produces and sells will be of the highest quality and thoroughly tested by an actual engineer who knows what he's doing.  Due to personal issues, I haven't had a chance to do a write up about it here on AA but NAID did and this further supports what he said.  As soon as time permits, I'll promote it on my business page.

 

 

 

 

 

Screenshot 2024-01-10 134050.png

Screenshot 2024-01-10 134131.png

Screenshot 2024-01-10 134218.png

Edited by Ruggers Customs
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The Lundy Electronics adapter is design for using the “A” version of the Meanwell GP25 power supply. The “B” floating ground version used by others has been known to cause noise in the display.

 

The one on ebay with the “B” version is $69.99 + $14.99 (to my location) shipping for a total of $84.98

 

The Lundy Electronics adapter is $24.00 + $4.75 (to my location) shipping for a total of $28.75
The mouser “A” version supply is $36.92 + $7.99 (to my location) shipping for a total of $44.91
Both combined are $73.66, which is $11.32 cheaper than the ebay listing.

 

https://lundyelectronics.com/product-category/colecovision/

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/GP25A13A-R1B?qs=9HM%2FdYkAMWxfTvoxh7QCoA%3D%3D

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I bought the Lundy adaptor and the Mean Well GP25A13A-RB1 power supply. 

 

Lundy was $29.10

GP25A13A-RB1 from Mouser was $47.60

$76.70 is more than I wanted to spend, but it sounds like a quality setup. Hopefully it will be worth it as I didn't get to finish testing the CV. I was able to play Donkey Kong & Space Fury for a few minutes, but I was seeing vertical lines through all of the sprites. Once I get it up and running again, I'm sure I'll be in the forums looking for help to work the other bugs out.

9 hours ago, nick3092 said:

Hopefully nothing got fried on your Coleco in the process of the 5v rail blowing. Your 12 is high too, that could potentially have damaged something as well. 

Thankfully, the power supply was unplugged from the CV when it died. For some reason I disconnected it from CV, but left it plugged in the power strip while I was messing around with other things. That's when I heard the POP.

 

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My Lundy adaptor arrived today. The power supply won't be here until Thursday. Hopefully, it won't be delayed because of the bad weather we're having in my area. The Lundy is 3d printed two pieces held together by what I think is a screw, but it's covered by a sticker. The 3d printing itself is moderate quality. The case is solid but full of cosmetic imperfections that don't affect functionality but are visually noticeable and annoying to look at. The Colecovision plug end is larger than the stock CV power supply chord, but it still fits securely into my CV. 

On 1/10/2024 at 1:38 PM, nick3092 said:

...I have no idea if the Lundy adopters do anything or are completely passive...

I put my multimeter to it and found that the Lundy is just a pass-through adaptor. There is only 0.2ohm resistance across each set of pins. Pins 1&2 on the DIN side are connected to Pin 4 on the CV side. Which makes sense as these are common grounds. The remaining pins just shunt the right voltages to the correct pins. I don't know how the DIN socket is connected to the terminal pins, whether there's a PCB in there, or if it's all hard wired. I'm not willing to open it up just yet. 

 

Overall, my impression is good. The 3d printed case is solid. Fit is good though the finish could be better. It does what it says on the "Tin." A shell, DIN socket, terminal pins, high quality labels making sure the user knows what to plug in where, and possibly a PCB inside makes the $24 USD price tag fair. I expect once I get my CV up and running, I'll be so busy enjoying the games that I'll forget the Lundy is even there which would make it a success in my opinion.

 

 

 

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I decided to order one too (along with the speech module and expansion hub to allow the SGM and speech to be connected at the same time) that also showed up today.  Everything was packed well and I think it all looks nice considering it's 3D printed.  The power adapter fits very well in the back of the Coleco, which is a good sign of the quality and care that went into it.  I haven't ordered a brick yet, need to space some of these purchases out a little.  But I'm glad to have a quality back up to my ColUSB.

Edited by nick3092
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My GP25A13A-RB1 arrived today, and I was able to fully test my CV. I get a nice clean image on my TV using RF with no noticeable noise. Most of the graphical glitches I alluded to in an earlier post are gone. I guess the original power supply wasn't delivering the correct voltages and was causing problems. 

 

I can whole heartedly recommend the Mean Well/Lundy combo. I will warn that it sticks out 3&3/4" from the back of the CV to end of the strain relief on the Mean Well's DIN plug. I can foresee this causing a problem if you're trying to store your CV on a media console shelf that isn't deep enough. 

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