Track & Field Controller(s)

[doubledown]

I decided I wanted to build myself a custom Track & Field controller, but I knew I wanted something a bit more spectacular than just the simple/original Atari branded (WICO built...I believe) Track & Field controllers from the before times.  So taking aesthetic cues from the original Konami/Centuri arcade cabinets (including the proper button colors - Red for "RUN(s)" & White for "Jump / Throw"), I got to working on the design.  Once I had decided on which enclosure I was going to use, I drew up the artwork, selected the hardware, and placed an order for the pushbuttons that I'm going to use (only items I didn't have in stock). 

 

Now, while I'm waiting for these special pushbuttons for my "fancy" T&F controller, I figured, I might as well also make myself a "simple" T&F controller, something more akin to the original Atari ones.  From what I can tell (from measuring/scaling pictures I found online), it looks like the original T&F controllers were about 7" wide, 4.25" deep, and 1.25" tall...approximately...best I can tell.  So of course, one would simply find a plastic enclosure approximately this size, and get to work.  But I remembered that I had bought a very small Serpac X2X series enclosure to check out, that I have since determined, was going to be too small to be able to be used for a "joystick" controller enclosure.  But when considering that I wouldn't need a joystick for this "simple" T&F controller, I decided why not build the "littlest" T&F controller that I could...and, I already had everything in stock.  So presenting my:

 

Track & Field DX - VVG Femto Controller

 

 

The original T&F controllers only had 3 buttons...Run (Joystick Left), Run (Joystick Right), and Jump / Throw (Fire)...which was fine back in '83/'84...before multi-carts.  Unfortunately, with no way to input Joystick Up or Down commands with an original T&F controller, one would need to plug a joystick into their console, select Track & Field (or The Activision Decathlon) from their multi-cart menu, then unplug that joystick and plug in a T&F controller when the game boots.  Or, be sure to organize your games list so that these games are accessible without having to press the joystick Up or Down to highlight them, or use a Wye cable and a joystick...or similar.  But to me, here in 2024, I find all this unacceptable, and I added a low-profile, momentary rocker switch ((ON)-NONE-(ON)) to this controller, so that I don't need to swap controllers, and I can select the game(s) I want, regardless of where they are in my games list.  

 

Details of the build:

 

** Serpac 121i,BK, 4.1" x 2.6", molded ABS enclosure

 

** Sanwa OBSF-24 pushbuttons (3), w/ A.S. classic concave caps (2 - red, 1 white) (proper colors from the arcade cabinets)

 

** NKK (ON)-NONE-(ON) rocker switch, for Joystick Up / Down inputs

 

** 10' Custom crimped cable

 

** Track & Field arcade cabinet inspired CPO/Artwork

 

For a size comparison, here's this:

 

 

Of course such a thing could be built into a bigger enclosure, more along the lines of the size of the originals, but I wanted to use this enclosure for something, so here it is.  Hopefully the pushbuttons for my "fancy" T&F controller will arrive in a few days, then, I can unveil the controller that I truly intended on building, when I started this project...more to come!

Edited February 27 by doubledown

[Tinman]

Cool!

[Cynicaster]

I remember getting Atari 2600 Track and Field for Christmas in 1986 and it came with that blue arcade-button controller, which we were very excited about because we loved the arcade game back then.  We used that controller for Decathlon as well.  One thing I distinctly remember is that the fairly compact form factor and very light weight of the controller meant that it would always sort of slip and slide around during "spirited" play, and as a result it wasn't nearly as much fun to use as it seemed that it should have been.  To get around this problem, eventually we ended up adopting a method where we'd use one hand to hold the controller still, and then stick the other hand inside a plastic McDonald's cup and rake it back and forth across the run buttons as fast as we could.  A finger from the hand holding the controller down would hit the jump/throw button.  This made it possible to fairly easily max out the speed meter and get some really good scores.  I've noticed that T&F and Decathlon on the 2600 seem to really reward a true left/right "alternating" of run button presses, as opposed to random mashing of left and right independently.  The cup sliding back and forth ensured it was a true L R L R L R L R L R input pattern at high speed, where as mashing the buttons independently with fingers would likely be something more like L L R L R R LRR LLR RLLR RLR RL. 😆

 

  

 

  

[doubledown]

2 hours ago, Cynicaster said:

I remember getting Atari 2600 Track and Field for Christmas in 1986 and it came with that blue arcade-button controller, which we were very excited about because we loved the arcade game back then.  We used that controller for Decathlon as well.  One thing I distinctly remember is that the fairly compact form factor and very light weight of the controller meant that it would always sort of slip and slide around during "spirited" play, and as a result it wasn't nearly as much fun to use as it seemed that it should have been.  To get around this problem, eventually we ended up adopting a method where we'd use one hand to hold the controller still, and then stick the other hand inside a plastic McDonald's cup and rake it back and forth across the run buttons as fast as we could.  A finger from the hand holding the controller down would hit the jump/throw button.  This made it possible to fairly easily max out the speed meter and get some really good scores.  I've noticed that T&F and Decathlon on the 2600 seem to really reward a true left/right "alternating" of run button presses, as opposed to random mashing of left and right independently.  The cup sliding back and forth ensured it was a true L R L R L R L R L R input pattern at high speed, where as mashing the buttons independently with fingers would likely be something more like L L R L R R LRR LLR RLLR RLR RL. 😆  

Yes, the original T&F controller...looked like thusly:

 

 

While I've never owned/used/held one, I have seen pics of the inside...which is comprised of 3 pushbuttons, and 3 leaf-switches, so it wouldn't have been that heavy.  I don't know if they anticipated people using them more on a table with their fingertips, or in their hands (like a control pad) using their thumbs.  The tiny version I made, can be used either way, but I find it more comfortable in my hands, using my thumbs...which is one reason why I located the buttons "upside down" compared to the Atari version...easier to rotate a thumb downward/inward to get to a low/centered Jump / Throw button, then it is to stretch your thumb (or alter you grip) upward/inward to get to a high/centered button. 

 

I'm sure lots of crafty children came up with all sorts of crazy manner of "cheat" type devices to actuate the buttons faster and faster.  I'm most familiar with laying the tube of a Bic pen over your middle finger, with your index and ring fingers on top of the tube...like a see-saw concept...to alternate hitting the buttons left/right...and so on.  I'd also love to know how many CX-40s were lost to Track & Field and The Activision Decathlon!

 

In good news, my special pushbuttons arrived today, and I've got the control panel surface of the enclosure machined so far.  Now I just need to do all of the craziness that I do to these enclosures for bracing and weighting.  Rest assured, my "fancy" T&F controller will not be light-weight, or able to dance around...now matter how enthusiastic the gameplay!  With any luck I should have it completed tonight or maybe tomorrow...depends on how it all goes together.  

[doubledown]

Assembly complete...and now...presenting my new:

 

Track & Field - VVG Enhanced Controller

 

 

 

Now Track & Field, and The Activision Decathlon, only truly require joystick Left / Right and "Fire" button inputs to play, but there are several other "games"-types games, that rely on all of the joystick inputs, and 1 fire button...such as California Games 2600, Summer Games 2600 / 8-Bit / 7800, and Winter Games 2600 / 7800...as well as a few others.  So I figured I would build my Track & Field controller, so that I can play all of these games, plus every other 1 button (or less) joystick game in the 2600 / 8-Bit / 7800 libraries (and other compatible systems / computers).  The original T&F arcade cabinets had pinball flipper buttons w/ leaf-switches (common for the day), but I wanted something a bit different, and a bit flashier.  I wanted buttons that one could really slap the ever-loving dog snot out of...so I chose the Suzo-Happ Medium Round IPB pushbuttons, mainly for their large, extremely slapable, 1.45" diameter plungers.  These buttons, in factory form, are a bit firm for my taste, especially when playing a T&F type game.  So I cut 2-1/2 coils off of the plunger return springs, and replaced the factory installed 75g Cherry (ZF) D44X microswitches with 45g D41X microswitches, to greatly lessen the actuation force.  Alternatively, if I don't feel like slapping buttons, my modified iL PSM-30 joystick, is drop mounted (10/16") for a low ball height, and it too, has a modified spring and lower force microswitches, making it extremely easy to waggle back and forth, for fast times and high scores.  Being a real arcade joystick, with a steel lever/shaft and microswitches, this one won't break like a CX-40 would with T&F type abuse.  The CPO artwork is of course an homage (cough, cough, copy...cough) to the original arcade cabinet artwork, and even includes the "Play Instructions" and "Events" info text.  And here he is next to his little brother:

 

 

This new big brother, is built into a 14" x 8.5" aluminum enclosure from Hammond, and as I have braced and weighted it...weighs in at 4 lbs.  It ain't going nowhere...unless you really want it to...no matter how hard you slap and/or mash!

 

Details of the build:

 

** Hammond 1456PH1BKBK, 14" x 8.5", sloped-top aluminum enclosure (braced & weighted)

 

** VVG / iL PSM-30 joystick, 8-way, w/ Seimitsu LB-35 (35mm) black ball knob

 

** Suzo-Happ Medium Round IPB pushbuttons (2 - red, 1 white) (proper colors from the arcade cabinets)

 

** 10' Custom crimped cable w/ rear-mounted cord cleats for cable management

 

** Track & Field arcade cabinet inspired CPO/Artwork

 

And as mentioned earlier, with the 8-way joystick and the "Jump / Throw" ("Fire") button...this is, for all intents and purposes...a general use arcade joystick controller, useable with any compatible game...not just T&F.  

 

Additionally, these pushbuttons are meant to be illuminated, but come with 14VDC incandescent bulbs mounted in the switch holders.  I've have to get some lower voltage LED equivalents, and see if I can get enough power from the joystick port to power them sufficiently, for even more flash!  Enjoy.

[manterola]

Actually, I just got that controller, and the quality is not very great. The buttons are NOT like the ones in the arcade. They don't have a spring, it is just the typical Wico lead switch, and nothing else.

I happened to me that I was visiting an Arcade just last week, while I received this T&F controller. I was not expecting an arcade button feeling, but at least something similar.

For a more truthful reproduction, I think one have to include those weird distinctive buttons, but maybe they were present in only some arcade consoles.

[doubledown]

6 minutes ago, manterola said:

Actually, I just got that controller, and the quality is not very great. The buttons are NOT like the ones in the arcade. They don't have a spring, it is just the typical Wico lead switch, and nothing else.

I happened to me that I was visiting an Arcade just last week, while I received this T&F controller. I was not expecting an arcade button feeling, but at least something similar.

For a more truthful reproduction, I think one have to include those weird distinctive buttons, but maybe they were present in only some arcade consoles.

Seems weird that the plungers wouldn't have some sort of rebound springs in them...I can't imagine the leafs being enough to reset the plungers (unless the T&F controller buttons are more like the buttons used in the Command Control joysticks, and not true arcade pushbuttons)...I suppose anything is possible.  

 

What you have pictured, are what is know as the "anti-cheat" and/or "anti-smash" button variants...with the raised collars.  To my knowledge these were available after the fact, and I don't think any cabinets came from the factory with these (but I could be wrong about this point).  Obviously with the raised collars, the "bridging" a pen tube trick won't work...nor can you "hammer" the buttons with your whole hand, or some other sort of device...as the collars prevented these concepts....meaning more quarters, and less maintenance/repairs, for the operators.  There was also a Track-Ball variant (I believe factory offered)...which I have read people describe as super easy due to how easy it is to spin-a track-ball fast...versus alternately slapping 2 independent pushbuttons.  

[+x=usr(1536)]

40 minutes ago, manterola said:

For a more truthful reproduction, I think one have to include those weird distinctive buttons, but maybe they were present in only some arcade consoles.

This is correct.  More:

23 minutes ago, doubledown said:

To my knowledge these were available after the fact, and I don't think any cabinets came from the factory with these (but I could be wrong about this point).

It's possible that some later cabinets had them from the factory, but that's speculation on my behalf.  What I can say for certain, though, is that they were definitely offered as an in-the-field modification for existing cabinets - as a kid, this was one of the first 'real' bits of work I ever did on an arcade game.

[manterola]

2 hours ago, doubledown said:

What you have pictured, are what is know as the "anti-cheat" and/or "anti-smash" button variants...with the raised collars. 

Yes, I didn't know about those tricks, I just read about it... By the way, here are some pictures from someone else controller. The box (case) controller size is 7 x 3.75 x 1.75 inches, just in case.

 

 

[doubledown]

24 minutes ago, manterola said:

Yes, I didn't know about those tricks, I just read about it... By the way, here are some pictures from someone else controller. The box (case) controller size is 7 x 3.75 x 1.75 inches, just in case.

 

 

Thanks for the size / measurements...I was close-ish!  I have seen those pictures before, the only thing they don't show is the underside of the upper half of the controller enclosure...specifically the pushbuttons themselves, to see what type they are...arcade flipper buttons, or more like Command Control base buttons.  

[manterola]

16 minutes ago, doubledown said:

Thanks for the size / measurements...I was close-ish!  I have seen those pictures before, the only thing they don't show is the underside of the upper half of the controller enclosure...specifically the pushbuttons themselves, to see what type they are...arcade flipper buttons, or more like Command Control base buttons. 

They are CLEARLY not arcade, and the command control joystick button is smaller and actually gives you more "feedback". Check it out:

 

 

 

One of the screw posts was destroyed (by me) in the process of opening this controller for cleaning.

Edited March 1 by manterola

[doubledown]

16 minutes ago, manterola said:

They are CLEARLY not arcade, and the command control joystick button is smaller and actually gives you more "feedback". Check it out:

 

 

 

One of the screw posts was destroyed (by me) in the process of opening this controller for cleaning.

 

Definitely not "arcade/flipper" buttons...for sure.  I'd have to check the required mounting depth to see how much depth would be required, to make something similar w/ real arcade flipper buttons.  

[doubledown]

Looks like original "short" flipper buttons would need an internal mounting depth of 1.5" or more...so assuming a molded enclosure of ~0.1000" thickness, an enclosure that is 1.7" or taller should work...give or take.

[manterola]

I don't know if you noticed, but the button is just the center, the frame of the button is just molded together with the case. 

And I just discovered that there is some kind of "spring" for feedback, if we can call it that way...  it is just a small and fragile piece of plastic. At least I have the possibility of upgrade the buttons with some real springs.