RockLobster Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 I've just gotten a Jaguar GameDrive and this little bugger's onboard Jaglink is conflicting. I assumed that the jumpers on the left and right side (not the middle ones for RGB) would have allowed for the disabling of JagLink but the jumpers don't seem to make a difference. When googling, at most I've come across their newer board but things appear rearranged and very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerosquare Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 I don't think the jumpers on the bottom are for disabling the networking part ; they're too far from where the chips that handle those (U1 and the one to the left of it). With a good photo of the other side of the PCB, it'd be possible to figure out which component(s) should be removed to avoid the conflict. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 3 hours ago, Zerosquare said: With a good photo of the other side of the PCB, it'd be possible to figure out which component(s) should be removed to avoid the conflict. Alright, here's the other side... but it seems all the components were in the previous photo... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waali Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 As per Gamedrive documentation: The JagGD is not compatble with JagLink network play or with the Jaguar CD add-on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenorman Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 14 hours ago, waali said: As per Gamedrive documentation: The JagGD is not compatble with JagLink network play or with the Jaguar CD add-on. Yes, he's trying to figure out if the Jaglink portion of the board can be disabled so that he can continue to use the AV out breakout.... RockLobster: I have one of these as well, but unfortunately, I agree the documentation is rather sparse and I don't have any ideas other than asking Retro-Kidz himself. He is still selling these on eBay so you can probably just message through there. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerosquare Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 19 hours ago, RockLobster said: Alright, here's the other side... but it seems all the components were in the previous photo... Okay, so there's two ways you can work around the issue: 1) unsolder the two ICs that handle networking: or 2) cut this track on the bottom of the board: Choose the one you're most comfortable with. Of course, in either case, networking won't work any more. Edited March 27 by Zerosquare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alucardX Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 (edited) Couldn't he just do something to limit contacts in the connector to those points on the board? Edited March 28 by alucardX Dumb comment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenorman Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Could probably just cover up the DSP edge connector with electrical tape. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerosquare Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 (edited) 30 minutes ago, alucardX said: Couldn't he just do something to limit contacts in the connector to those points on the board? That would work as well ; the contact that needs to be isolated is the third one from the left on the bottom side of the DSP port (when viewing the Jaguar from the back side). 10 minutes ago, Tenorman said: Could probably just cover up the DSP edge connector with electrical tape. It may work, or may not if the board uses the +5V supply from the DSP port to power something else. Worth a try, anyways. I'd use a piece of paper instead of electrical tape, as the latter leaves sticky residues. Edited March 28 by Zerosquare 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 12 hours ago, Zerosquare said: It may work, or may not if the board uses the +5V supply from the DSP port to power something else. @Tenorman Yeah, covering up the DSP connector pins rendered the rest of the board powerless. 19 hours ago, Tenorman said: I have one of these as well, but unfortunately, I agree the documentation is rather sparse and I don't have any ideas other than asking Retro-Kidz himself. He is still selling these on eBay so you can probably just message through there. I've not found Retro-Kids selling these but someone else who won't answer. Plus they're now selling a much different looking variant. I suppose you're either not using the Jaguar GD nor this multi-out any more? 15 hours ago, Zerosquare said: Choose the one you're most comfortable with. Of course, in either case, networking won't work any more. I'm find performing the work but since the Jaguar GD isn't compatible with JagLink, I figured that I'd leave this alone as a standalone JagLink. I've got a dedicated AV connector side for RGB SCART coming in a few days so anything I do on this Retro-kidz board should be non-destructive since one day I would actually like to experience Jaguar network play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 13 hours ago, Zerosquare said: the contact that needs to be isolated is the third on This was the non-destructive solution we needed!!!! @Tenorman give it a try! THANK YOU ALL! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenorman Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 1 hour ago, RockLobster said: @Tenorman I've not found Retro-Kids selling these but someone else who won't answer. Plus they're now selling a much different looking variant. I suppose you're either not using the Jaguar GD nor this multi-out any more? Nope, I don't have a GD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alucardX Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 24 minutes ago, Tenorman said: Nope, I don't have a GD. Best community building accessory there is for the Jag. Now that you can play and test home brew on it when releases are made it really keeps the community active with developers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alucardX Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 1 hour ago, RockLobster said: This was the non-destructive solution we needed!!!! @Tenorman give it a try! THANK YOU ALL! I see you also have a couple of other lovely consoles to the left. Hello Dreamcast and Saturn! Glad you got it working too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 (edited) 8 minutes ago, alucardX said: it really keeps the community active with developers. Seems like a gateway drug too bc with those Atari ST ports to the Jaguar, now I'm interested in getting an Atari ST where I was previously turned off with the lackluster GEM environment preferring everything Amiga. 6 minutes ago, alucardX said: I see you also have a couple of other lovely consoles to the left. Hello Dreamcast and Saturn! Good eye. it's a continuing collection fighting for shelf/desk space! RACKRF ---------- ColecoVision = RF -> RF1 Intellivision2 = RF -> RF1 Atari 400 = RF -> RF1 Odyssey 2 = RF -> RF1 Atari 5200 = RF -> RF1 NES = Composite -> 1702-A RACK1 ---------- Atari 2600 = S-Video -> GSTOP1 Atari 130XE = S-Video -> GSTOP1 Composite -> PVM -> MONOCRT PS1 = RGB -> SCART1 PS2-A = Component -> RCA1 PS2-B = RGB -> SCART1 Wii = Component -> RCA2 Xbox1 = Component -> RCA2 MiSTer = RGB -> VGA1 Component -> VGA1 VGA -> VGA1 HD -> Avermedia GameCube = Component -> RCA1 (via Retro-Prism) Pi4 RGBPiOS4 = RGB -> SCART1 (via RCA) MAMEPC1 = RGB -> SCART1 (via RCA) RACK2 ---------- Pi3 RGBPiOS2 = RGB -> SCART1 Atari 7800 = RGB -> SCART1 Nintendo 64 = RGB -> SCART1 Genesis = RGB -> SCART1 Master Sys = RGB -> SCART1 PC Engine = RGB -> SCART1 (via RCA) Vectrex = Vector -> itself RACKDESK ---------- SNES = RGB -> SCART2 Famicom = RGB -> SCART2 Dreamcast = RGB -> SCART2 (also S-Video for the few RGB incompatible games) Saturn = RGB -> SCART2 Xbox2 = HD -> 4K1 Jaguar = S-Video -> CURV OFFLINE ---------- Systems that are disconnected by power and AV Apple //e Apple //c Color Computer 2 TI 99/4A Atari XEGS Classic / Mini systems: Nintendo Classic Super Nintendo Classic Playstation Classic Sega Genesis Classic (Spares of above computers) Edited March 28 by RockLobster 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alucardX Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 You've got quite the collection @RockLobster. This does bring a question to mind though. What is everyone using to connect all these AV devices to their TV? I haven't looked too hard but is there a really good AV switch product out there that people are using to have all these consoles connected and not have to move cables around every time you switch systems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 (edited) 7 minutes ago, alucardX said: What is everyone using to connect all these AV devices to their TV? I haven't looked too hard but is there a really good AV switch product out there that people are using to have all these consoles connected and not have to move cables around every time you switch systems? Here's the rest of the doc that I copied and pasted from for the above list of retro consoles/computers. I had to create this simple documentation to help me remember where things are and for conversations like this. In short, I stay in RF with a good amplified RF switch (not splitter) for Gen2 consoles (Colecovision, Intv, etc.) and then RGB / Component for as many things as possible until the HD native consoles like the PS3 or Xbox 360. These are the destination displays and video devices (switches, capture cards, scalers, etc.) that the above referred to with model numbers for some. Displays: ---------- WEGA = 27" KV-27FS210 CRT (RF, Composite, S-Video, Component) CURV = 27" KV-27S42 RGB modded CRT (S-Video, RGB) TATE = 20" 21PT4475 CRT (Composite, RGB) PVM = 20" PVM-20M2MDU CRT (Composite, S-Video, Component, RGB) 4K1 = 42" TCL 4K60 flat panel (Composite, Component, HD, 4K) TVRF = Generic flat panel TV (RF, Composite, VGA, HD) 1702-A = Commodore 1702 CRT #1 (Composite, S-Video) 1702-B = Commodore 1702 CRT #2 (Composite, S-Video) DELLVGA = 19" Dell VGA CRT (VGA) PROJECT = InFocus projector (Composite, S-Video, VGA) MONOCRT = Apple A2M2010 green monochrome CRT (Composite) Video devices: ---------- VCR = Converts RF to Composite for capture or to 1702-A or 1702-B GBSC = Scaler (RGB, VGA, Component) outputs HD to CAPTURE CAPTURE = Avermedia LGP2 (HDMI) outputs to a generic flat panel RGB2COMP = Transcodes RGB to Component to RCA1 SB41 = Shinybow SB-3714 SCART 4x distribution to: 1) RCA1 2) TATE 3) PVM 4) GBSC SCART1 = Otaku RCA and SCART switch to SB41 SCART2 = Bandbridge SCART switch to CURV RF1 = Archer amplified RF switch to TVRF, VCR, WEGA RCA1 = Monoprice Component switch to WEGA RCA2 = Monoprice Component switch to WEGA GSTOP1 = Gamestop Composite/S-Video switch to PVM and then to WEGA VGA1 = HD-15 switch to: 1) Component -> RCA1 2) RGB -> SCART1 (via RCA) 3) VGA -> DELLVGA 4) VGA -> PROJECT Edited March 28 by RockLobster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenorman Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 26 minutes ago, alucardX said: Best community building accessory there is for the Jag. Now that you can play and test home brew on it when releases are made it really keeps the community active with developers. I do have a Skunkboard and also an EPROM programmer if I want to make something more permanent. Close enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+cubanismo Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 1 hour ago, alucardX said: What is everyone using to connect all these AV devices to their TV? I haven't looked too hard but is there a really good AV switch product out there that people are using to have all these consoles connected and not have to move cables around every time you switch systems? I have a retro tuner/receiver with lots of component, s-video, and composite inputs, then I also have a radio shack av switcher plugged in to the S-Video port of that. I like these Radio Shack switches because you can feed composite or S-Video into each port, and they'll output S-Video regardless of what you plug in, so you don't need to mess with extra cables to your TV/receiver or toggling more switches if your TV/receiver can't take S-Video and composite in on the same input. The Radio Shack 4-1 switches are plentiful on eBay for like $15-20. They're the curved grey/silver ones. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 4 hours ago, cubanismo said: I like these Radio Shack switches because you can feed composite or S-Video into each port, and they'll output S-Video regardless of what you plug in Do you have a link for these converter/switchers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+cubanismo Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 49 minutes ago, RockLobster said: Do you have a link for these converter/switchers? Here's a sample eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/126142481355 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 7 hours ago, cubanismo said: Here's a sample eBay listing: The one you linked... is that the model you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+cubanismo Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 9 hours ago, RockLobster said: is that the model you have? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JagChris Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 On 3/26/2024 at 8:56 PM, waali said: As per Gamedrive documentation: The JagGD is not compatble with JagLink network play or with the Jaguar CD add-on. This is unfortunate. Its annoying to have to unplug the CD drive every time I want to use the GD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockLobster Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 3 hours ago, cubanismo said: Yes. There's no power going to this passive device? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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