Atari Jaguar CD Disk Closed Mechanism Dowel missing/broken

[Jagg753]

Hey guys. So recently got an Atari Jaguar CD and the thing isn't spinning. Found out its because the piece that tells the system that a disc is in the tray and to start reading is gone. When I push the piece down it reads the disc and everything works as it should. It looks like it was some sort of dowel...? I can't find any pictures of a complete one, any videos of people taking it apart. Nothing. Wondering if anyone could show me how it was originally built and what I could do as an fix. Currently I am working on making a piece of copper 10 gauge wire work but curious how it looked before and want to know if what I'm doing is silly compared to how its supposed to be. I've supplied a few photos so you can see what I have done! Also hoping someone can show me exactly what stock looks like as well!

Thanks for your time and help

20d1b89b-3d7b-4088-ae03-564ec45e5dec.jfif 7611392e-19d8-4f3e-9ef7-646cd69bdab4.jfif 215e8186-346a-49b1-8ec9-3d979964b987.jfif c7fb4639-5dcf-45f7-bfaa-f8318a774c57.jfif a5fb4e08-191f-4d58-a211-33be08265f3e.jfif

[Jagg753]

Okay so I just found a picture after looking some more. This is the only picture I can find... does anybody have some measurements for this piece... I'm looking at the lid latch. I am thinking of 3D printing this and would love to model it. Just want exact measurements if it's possible. I would need measurements of everything including the spring! Thanks so much for ur help! 

[omf]

i see that there has been as much help on this as i usually get when i post a technical question relating to fixing something.  unfortunately apart from a few helpful people that do try and help, most will be quick to pick holes in what has happened / done, but when it comes to it they don't offer anything of value when it comes to this kind of question.  as i have been in the same position as you from other topics, i now what it is like.

 

as i have a jaguar cd i will attempt to give the help you ask

see attached picture and notes below

 

the spring is as follows:

9.2mm long

the wire used is 0.5 mm diameter

 

[Jagg753]

 

2 hours ago, omf said:

i see that there has been as much help on this as i usually get when i post a technical question relating to fixing something.  unfortunately apart from a few helpful people that do try and help, most will be quick to pick holes in what has happened / done, but when it comes to it they don't offer anything of value when it comes to this kind of question.  as i have been in the same position as you from other topics, i now what it is like.

 

as i have a jaguar cd i will attempt to give the help you ask

see attached picture and notes below

 

the spring is as follows:

9.2mm long

the wire used is 0.5 mm diameter

 

This is incredible... Exactly what I was looking for. I should now be able to make a model of this and get it 3D printed! I will upload a picture when I get it done. You mentioned you had a similar issue. Was it with this piece and you had to get it 3D printed? I don't have much experience with making 3D renders but this is a good test and I have all the info I need to make this happen. 

 

Thanks again! You are a legend in my books. Will report back soon.

[Bratwurst]

Jaguar CD Peg.stl

[omf]

1 hour ago, Jagg753 said:

 

This is incredible... Exactly what I was looking for. I should now be able to make a model of this and get it 3D printed! I will upload a picture when I get it done. You mentioned you had a similar issue. Was it with this piece and you had to get it 3D printed? I don't have much experience with making 3D renders but this is a good test and I have all the info I need to make this happen. 

 

Thanks again! You are a legend in my books. Will report back soon.

no it wasn't this in particular, some jaguar related bits, but most colecovision related.  i got to to point where i had to bite the bullet and do the work myself instead of benefitting from existing knowledge / experience.

 

i still have a colecovision that gives me some visual issues issues (not related to the graphics ram) that no one wants to help rectify / give advice, granted its for a French SCART model but there must be some people around here that has some knowledge of that as a result i use the ntsc colecovision with the F18a in it when i want to play coleco these days.

[Bratwurst]

Note that FDM printing ain't really gonna cut it with the previously posted STL, the pegs are probably too small in diameter to have any meaningful strength to them. I would suggest SLS (laser sintered nylon) or something similar.

 

Even better if you can have the thing CNC routed out of solid aluminum.

[omf]

12 minutes ago, Bratwurst said:

Jaguar CD Peg.stl 38.85 kB · 1 download

i did consider making the model but as there was interest in modelling it i didn't go that far, but fair play

[Jagg753]

12 minutes ago, omf said:

i did consider making the model but as there was interest in modelling it i didn't go that far, but fair play

Thank you for ur time and help! It sucks when you have something you need help on but nobody has any answers. I wish I could be of some help in your case. Keep looking hopefully someone will get it

[Jagg753]

13 minutes ago, Bratwurst said:

Note that FDM printing ain't really gonna cut it with the previously posted STL, the pegs are probably too small in diameter to have any meaningful strength to them. I would suggest SLS (laser sintered nylon) or something similar.

 

Even better if you can have the thing CNC routed out of solid aluminum.

Fair. Really NEW to 3D printing. Do you need a special printer for SLS? Or could a regular 3d printer only do FDM? I'm actually about to buy my printer right now😅

[Jagg753]

Nevermind. I just did a quick google search and found SLS is expensive. Maybe I'll print my FDM first and look at gettinf a shop to make the part for me. It's so tiny I bet someone could make it for me!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stephen Moss]

8 hours ago, Jagg753 said:

Nevermind. I just did a quick google search and found SLS is expensive.

Yes, too expensive too purchase for personal use but there are places like Protolabs (formerly 3D hubs) where you can send it to be manufactured, will probably still be expensive for what it is, but cheaper than buying a 3D printer of any type for occasional home use. But you can submit you design online and it checks for errors and give you an instant quote.

 

If you do want to buy the smaller the printed object the better the 3D printer has to be, and I would use ABS rather then PLA as it is a proper engineering material and would be the same as the original part, PLA is more brittle and distorts more during the printing so dimensional accuracy of the finished part is a generally more difficult (particularly on smaller parts) when using PLA.

[omf]

i might give one a go on my printer, i expect it would depend on a variety of variables for the required strength.

 

material

print direction

slicer settings

nozzle size

layer heright

 

we will see

 

[Bratwurst]

6 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

If you do want to buy the smaller the printed object the better the 3D printer has to be, and I would use ABS rather then PLA as it is a proper engineering material and would be the same as the original part, PLA is more brittle and distorts more during the printing so dimensional accuracy of the finished part is a generally more difficult (particularly on smaller parts) when using PLA.

ABS is even worse than PLA for tensile strength in printing parts with thin shapes. The durability of ABS only comes in printed parts that are large with thick walls or by injection molding. It's possible that acetone vape smoothing the piece would make it strong enough for the JagCD application though.

 

SLS is still probably going to be the best way to go, look for a service online that offers HP Multi Fusion Jet. At the most you'll probably be paying $20 shipped for a couple of these pegs, if that's 'too much' I should point out that owning and operating a JagCD (or Jaguar anything) these days shouldn't be considered a 'cheap' pastime anyway.

[Bratwurst]

6 hours ago, omf said:

print direction

 

Printing the model on its side so the rods are parallel to the build plate will probably give the FDM the best fighting chance imo.

[cubanismo]

You might also just call and ask Best Electronics if they have the part in stock. They have a bunch of odds and ends that aren't cataloged on their site.

 

I had this same issue, and I just bent a large paperclip into a workable shape and used that. It's been working for over two years now. It took a few tries to get it shaped just right (Don't leave one of the wire ends contacting the lid or switch directly. Use pliers to pinch a bent end until it's still rounded but thin enough to roughly match the original piece). Not as cool as 3D printing one, but the price was right!

[omf]

On 4/5/2024 at 9:58 PM, cubanismo said:

You might also just call and ask Best Electronics if they have the part in stock. They have a bunch of odds and ends that aren't cataloged on their site.

 

I had this same issue, and I just bent a large paperclip into a workable shape and used that. It's been working for over two years now. It took a few tries to get it shaped just right (Don't leave one of the wire ends contacting the lid or switch directly. Use pliers to pinch a bent end until it's still rounded but thin enough to roughly match the original piece). Not as cool as 3D printing one, but the price was right!

although Best Electronics *may* have this part, for most people i wouldnt think the minimum order value of $30 (from whet i remember) maybe a bit much to bear. i mean, you arent going to want to order a box of these parts to make up the minimum order value are you