Jump to content
IGNORED

Enhanced 600XL PCB by kveldulfur


Recommended Posts

Installed the PIC and no difference,

 

When the Colour adjustment is at max as in my set up, the voltage at pin 17 of the GTIA , referenced to GND is 8.25V

 

So changed the GTIA and - we get something that looks better :) I was sure the original GTIA was ok, oh well....

 

image.thumb.jpeg.92ed39b39850ddc18871363a6fa1e456.jpeg

 

This is still with the pot fully wound up.

 

Quickly checking with international karate, the composite image with UGV active looks like this:-

 

image.thumb.jpeg.ed5a304cd1ceee80be0c3044c630a719.jpeg

 

you can see some jail barring on the left, this could be my test rig, I will retry later with my other TV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

 

The grid lines on the left are also visible for me with composite video. It is less pronounced with S-Video.

I think your picture has too much blue in it, or is that due to the photos?

The large picture is composite video output, the other is composite on the left and S-Video on the right.

 

Kveldulfur

Compo.jpg

compare.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, olix said:

One way to increase the output voltage of this circuit might be to use diodes as CR2 and CR3 with a lower forward voltage (~0.75 V) like a Shottky diode (BAT48 ~0.25 V). The output voltage should then be about 1 V higher.

I'm not an electronics expert, but could this work?

Perhaps Mytec, who knows more about this, can confirm this.

 

The two diodes on the remake circuit are CR401 (=CR2)  and CR402 (=CR3).

Or to decrease R37 (=R403 on the remake) would be also a possibility?

 

It would seem logical that schottky diodes would improve the output level of the doubler (can't say for sure unless i try it). But that really shouldn't be necessary, since that circuit "as-is" has been used in a bazillion Atari computers without issue. It suggests that something else is to blame for the less than optimal output voltage. I suspect that would be the transistor Q401 that may be weak. Try swapping that for a new one.

 

Also check that R404 is actually a 500K pot, and not something smaller. If it's a considerably lower value, that would increase the load on the doubler and cause the voltage output to be lower.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

... it seems that the problem was a defective GTIA and not the color setting voltage. Voltage is 8.25 volts - that's OK

 

So you are right: the use of Shottky diodes is not necessary here.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ALL RESOLVED

 

R404 was the incorrect value as @mytek suggested looking at first.

 

It turns out that the short cut on @Kveldulfur project webpage is incorrect, it directs you to the 100ohm version.

 

https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/531-PT10MV10-26089

 and the data sheet confirms this

image.png.541c8ada67dbcb86e5a13506b02f02b6.png

 

Anyways thanks for your help guys, including @olix

 

Now time to put it in its new home :)

 

 

 

 

@olix @mytek

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

 

I have now removed the link on my website, but in my opinion the link is correct.

The link leads to PT10MV10-26089 which is a PT10MV10-504A1010. The 504 is a 500k potentiometer.

Am I making a mistake here?

 

504 = 500K
A = lin
1010 = 10%

 

@olix The potentiometer is also included in the collective order... and I think you also used it on your board, didn't you?

 

Kveldulfur

PT10MV10.png

Edited by Kveldulfur
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As mentioned before, the composite test monitor I was using for testing did show jail bars style artefacts, on my better tv/monitor and cable there is no visible jail bars in either s-video or composite.

 

S-Video

image.thumb.jpeg.7df168497d26e0e5ab74a10bfe8d515c.jpeg

 

Composite Video

image.thumb.jpeg.9087e67e624dd3af0f1acc5435380876.jpeg


 

This is the now working Colour chart with the correct colour adjustment resistor using super video

image.thumb.jpeg.44ed282971a9fda75d91e3295c16d4a2.jpeg

 

 

 

Overall I am impressed with the Video Output

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Kveldulfur said:

Hello!

 

I have now removed the link on my website, but in my opinion the link is correct.

The link leads to PT10MV10-26089 which is a PT10MV10-504A1010. The 504 is a 500k potentiometer.

Am I making a mistake here?

 

504 = 500K
A = lin
1010 = 10%

 

@olix The potentiometer is also included in the collective order... and I think you also used it on your board, didn't you?

 

Kveldulfur

PT10MV10.png

ahh, I wonder if mouser sent me the wrong value or even a faulty one, apologies for pointing that your link may of been wrong.

 

Because yes my order does give the 504 version, gawd dam, its now in the bin and I'm not going in to find it...

 

Either way, its a good thing to remember should someone else have a similar problem.

 

 

 

Edited by Overange
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello guys

 

Atari4fan has found something on the silkscreen that might confuse some people.  When you look at the silkscreen, you'll see "D401" with a "K" next to it.  The "K" is on the wrong side!

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 7/6/2024 at 6:01 AM, olix said:

There is now an internal FujiNet for the 600 XL Remake:

FN600Ant.thumb.jpg.25462c3fc4ca33337499b83bb73c8462.jpg

https://abbuc.de/forum/viewtopic.php?p=25401#p25401

 

Just fitted one of these Internal FUJINETs to my 600XL and it works great, for the SD card, all i did was cloned my existing external fuji net card and it connected onto my WIFI with no issues :)

 

Thanks to @Kveldulfur and @tf_hh for this great little piece of kit :) 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Enhanced 600xl additional Add on feature:-

 

Following the fitting of the Internal Fuji net to the 600XL remake, I wanted a way of controlling the Fuji net, for example turning it off or resetting it, with this in mind I also wanted to somehow turn on and off the other features this board has to offer such as extended RAM, V-Gate or Stereo. Part of this is a way of note drilling or modifying the existing case.

 

So I quickly designed a very small and simple set of switch PCBs, for the fuji net it has 3 Tactile switches and a mini 3 pin SPDT Slide Switch, with header to allow connection to the Main board. For the Main Board features, it just has 6 mini 3 pin SPDT Slide Switches and the headers.

 

Each board is held in place with M3 nylon screws and bolts fitted internally. 

I know the Screw heads are exposed, but I was thinking about getting a 3D design of a bolt that can slide between the gaps and get anchored at the same time and remain flush with the case.

As you can see from the photos the side slides are just poking out and the tactile are just on the edge, but just enough to make contact.

 

And it all works great :) It means a can now turn off functions with out having to modify the case, or even have to open it up.

 

Fujinet break out

image.png.a38f899211690dd04c6cd2ee7b4aa60e.pngimage.png.64c903353c3a0096c2c1052c1f362417.png

 

Main board Break out

image.thumb.png.a22bef7c6434897301d1ee640fcb7af6.pngimage.png.5b2a1b8ecb7b575839ab5f26312e7a9f.png

 

 

Fitted to the 600XL

image.thumb.png.c145c24ba2f732878c09d692bc5762da.png

 

Connected up to the 600XL

 

image.thumb.png.8cd4748908a44b06f8dbabdce1d28404.png

 

 

External Views

image.thumb.png.528d1011bcc03b758740af95f1ba53e7.pngimage.thumb.png.545c2b4db5347fad750ecae5d4c4b712.png

 

image.png.952b51316575e82aaf557b71410f78a2.png

image.png.6983c7a2e2e37800c901d4bb6fa1f39e.png

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Kveldulfur said:

This is a great idea and a fantastic addition.

I would be delighted if you could provide us with the PCB files (Gerber).

Off course I can, I will email them to @tf_hh then you guys can mod it as much as you like. :) 

 

This board could be modified further to include LEDs for statuses etc.

 

This is the source for the mini switch

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001207529493.html

 

The tactile switches where just standard 6x6x8 tactile switches, you could go slightly longer if needed.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As so often, a great and useful thing that you have developed. And just at the right moment, because at this very moment I have a 600XL housing on my desk at home, into which I wanted to drill a few holes for the FujiNet600XL in the next few days.

 

Thank you very much for your solution and for making the Gerber files available.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...