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Those Defective Jags on ebay


LamontCranston

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I've only seen one post about them on them here. A regular poster (and developer) bought one and said it came all banged and scratched up (like it had been thrown loose into a big box of other Jag's with no protection) and he couldn't get it working. He posted that for the auction price and shipping he had a pretty worthless doorstop.

 

Can't vouch for it but thats what I read.

 

Mendon

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I think I am 3 for 5 that worked and two that didn't. YMMV! LOL!

You have to pay about $10.00 for shipping so it is a $12-13 shot in the dark. Using parts off of the board is hard to do unless you have the prfessional soldering equipment to get them off before heat damages the parts. I do have the equipment, well most anyway. The large chips are usually removed with special hot air desoldering nozzles.. Expensive! This I don't have.

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I think I am 3 for 5 that worked and two that didn't. YMMV! LOL!

You have to pay about $10.00 for shipping so it is a $12-13 shot in the dark. Using parts off of the board is hard to do unless you have the prfessional soldering equipment to get them off before heat damages the parts. I do have the equipment, well most anyway. The large chips are usually removed with special hot air desoldering nozzles.. Expensive! This I don't have.

 

where are you from?

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Their shipping to Canada is NUTZ. $18USD ($25cdn) to ship surface to Canada? No Thanks! It 's actual ship would be about $6.50US I'd wager. I have a dead Jag that needs only a new cart slot, and it would be golden, but I'm not paying that for known broken stuff.

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I'd suspect most of them didn't pass the smoke test, so I'd stay away unless you want a (mostly) intact new Jagshell, or something off the mainboard.

 

@tiw: I'd hardly say you need pro equipment to get stuff off a PCB and have it still work, just a modicum of talent ;)

 

I'd be curious only if I got one that was either easily-fixable (the power input socket had come off the board or something) or had an ADC in to save me the effort of looking up the part number if I ever got interested in it.

 

Otherwise you could just use them for experimentation...maybe spray it white and set up a dentist's surgery? :lol:

 

Stone

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I am in Washington State. And to you Stone, I respect your opinion as I read many of your posts, but having worked in electronics for over 30 years, not using the proper equipment, procedures and a properly static protected workspace only invites trouble if not immediately then down the road as latent failures. Most of the spec sheets, especially for surface mount parts with such short leads and paths to the die have maximum lead temperatures AND a maximum time the part may be exposed to the temperature. So if you can't get a 16 pin SOIC off the board in 30 sec or less you've cooked the part or seriously impaired the reliability of the part. That is why I use nothing BUT Metcal equipment when working on surface mount parts. Their temperature regulation simply can't be beat. Respectfully submitted, TIW.

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tiw: Naturally I respect your opinion, I guess I'm just young and foolish :D Of course I know about the max lead temps, but I've always found them to be rather conservative for the majority of parts - as long as you're not obviously abusing the component then you'll rarely get a failure, in my experience. Of course, this will vary depending on the parts you're using (I tend to use lots of CMOS which I've found much hardier than TTL, likewise I'm not going to make a rush job of a $50 ADC ;)) but for the most part I've not found the need to go vastly overboard on precautions unless I'm using expensive parts.

 

On the other hand, this could also partially be down to my being an impoverished student and having to make do with cheap tools :D

 

Naturally I'm not trying to encourage anyone into slack working practices (Sod's Law states that the very first thing you kill with a static discharge will be expensive...the example being a friend of mine who never had any static problems until he killed a 512MB stick of RAM :roll:), I was just saying if you're going to salvage a couple of capacitors and some cheap DRAM then you can probably substitute a $2k ESD-protected setup for some soldering iron finesse.

 

:)

 

Stone

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I've bought three defective Jags from them, and a defective Lynx.

 

One Jag works almost entirely.

Two work, with the exception of sound, and later crash.

 

And the Lynx had a 1/3rd of the screen work.

 

Wierd stuff. Good for parts, and sometimes can be fixed.

 

Doctor Clu

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