walter_J64bit Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 (edited) OK I'm going to try fix a 5200 joystick I've just from the Flea Market today that with a working 4 port 5200 and 5 games but there's one thing I don't see how to remove the top tree buttons "START PAUSE RESET" Can anyone help? Edited July 16, 2005 by walter_J64bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 You have to pop off the bezel around that area with a small flat head screwdriver or a small bladed knife. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 You have to pop off the bezel around that area with a small flat head screwdriver or a small bladed knife. Mitch 892820[/snapback] OK thanks that worked now how about that joystick boot how is that removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 You have to pop off the bezel around that area with a small flat head screwdriver or a small bladed knife. Mitch 892820[/snapback] OK thanks that worked now how about that joystick boot how is that removed? 892867[/snapback] It isn't. The entire stick assembly comes off with the top case of the controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 You have to pop off the bezel around that area with a small flat head screwdriver or a small bladed knife. Mitch 892820[/snapback] OK thanks that worked now how about that joystick boot how is that removed? 892867[/snapback] Are you trying to replace the boot or just open the stick? Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 You have to pop off the bezel around that area with a small flat head screwdriver or a small bladed knife. Mitch 892820[/snapback] OK thanks that worked now how about that joystick boot how is that removed? 892867[/snapback] Are you trying to replace the boot or just open the stick? Mitch 892903[/snapback] Just replace the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrRetroGamer Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 In order to replace the boot, you have to take the top half off from the bottom. Remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the controller to disassemble the halves. Now as far as removing the old boot, you first need to take the joystick knob off. It's held in by FRICTION only, however, I have found that some are easy to take off and some are very hard. Usually I grab the metal shaft above the old boot with a pair of needle nose pliers or a vice grips, then just TWIST the knob UP and OFF. It may be on very tight and require extreme force, but it's only on with friction, trust me! Once you get the knob off, just let the entire shaft drop down thru the bottom and let everything stay together. Then you need to remove the boot retaining ring, which has 4 tabs at N, E, S and W positions. I use a small screwdriver from inside to pop each tab, and usually the ring will pop off - be careful not to break the ring. The the boot should just come out and you can replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Moral of the story: don't assume they're just trying to get it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted July 17, 2005 Author Share Posted July 17, 2005 In order to replace the boot, you have to take the top half off from the bottom. Remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the controller to disassemble the halves. Now as far as removing the old boot, you first need to take the joystick knob off. It's held in by FRICTION only, however, I have found that some are easy to take off and some are very hard. Usually I grab the metal shaft above the old boot with a pair of needle nose pliers or a vice grips, then just TWIST the knob UP and OFF. It may be on very tight and require extreme force, but it's only on with friction, trust me! Once you get the knob off, just let the entire shaft drop down thru the bottom and let everything stay together. Then you need to remove the boot retaining ring, which has 4 tabs at N, E, S and W positions. I use a small screwdriver from inside to pop each tab, and usually the ring will pop off - be careful not to break the ring. The the boot should just come out and you can replace it. 892928[/snapback] Thanks! I'll give it try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrizzLee Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 In order to replace the boot, you have to take the top half off from the bottom. Remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the controller to disassemble the halves. Now as far as removing the old boot, you first need to take the joystick knob off. It's held in by FRICTION only, however, I have found that some are easy to take off and some are very hard. Usually I grab the metal shaft above the old boot with a pair of needle nose pliers or a vice grips, then just TWIST the knob UP and OFF. It may be on very tight and require extreme force, but it's only on with friction, trust me! Once you get the knob off, just let the entire shaft drop down thru the bottom and let everything stay together. Then you need to remove the boot retaining ring, which has 4 tabs at N, E, S and W positions. I use a small screwdriver from inside to pop each tab, and usually the ring will pop off - be careful not to break the ring. The the boot should just come out and you can replace it. 892928[/snapback] Put it in the freezer. Everything shrinks when it gets cold.. should be easier to get off.... Reminds me of a Sienfeld episode.. I dunno. -Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrRetroGamer Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 Put it in the freezer. Everything shrinks when it gets cold.. should be easier to get off.... Reminds me of a Sienfeld episode.. I dunno. -Lee 893003[/snapback] Do women know about SHRINKAGE????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted July 17, 2005 Author Share Posted July 17, 2005 OK I just like to know what is needed to mod a 4 port to run the 2600 adapter and no my 4 port 5200 don't a * in the serial number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted July 30, 2005 Author Share Posted July 30, 2005 Ok I got my FlexPrint Circuit Rev9 in today and my frist try at fixing my joystick was a diaster I got my number key to work and my top tree buttons "START PAUSE RESET" are working but my fire buttons don't work and I don't have left ot right movement I'll try later to get the joystick working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Tomlin Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 (edited) OK I just like to know what is needed to mod a 4 port to run the 2600 adapter and no my 4 port 5200 don't a * in the serial number! Supposedly there's a mod, but I've never seen one, nor any details of what needs to be changed. Long ago I found two four-port boards which were compatible, the first one had "REV 3" at the end of its board part number (and it had blown CMOS chips on controller port 1 which I had to replace), and I found the second by peeking through the vent holes in the bottom of 5200s looking for that same "REV 3". EDIT: I just realized it was handy. It's C019673 REV 3. The board has no apparent mods on it, so it was a compatible re-design. I know the legends say that Atari could fix your board if you complained enough, but I believe it's possible that the "fix" was to replace the motherboard. Edited July 31, 2005 by Bruce Tomlin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Allan Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 OK I just like to know what is needed to mod a 4 port to run the 2600 adapter and no my 4 port 5200 don't a * in the serial number! Supposedly there's a mod, but I've never seen one, nor any details of what needs to be changed. Long ago I found two four-port boards which were compatible, the first one had "REV 3" at the end of its board part number (and it had blown CMOS chips on controller port 1 which I had to replace), and I found the second by peeking through the vent holes in the bottom of 5200s looking for that same "REV 3". EDIT: I just realized it was handy. It's C019673 REV 3. The board has no apparent mods on it, so it was a compatible re-design. I know the legends say that Atari could fix your board if you complained enough, but I believe it's possible that the "fix" was to replace the motherboard. 901800[/snapback] I had my 5200 modded for the VCS adapter. I still have it. I will post some pics later. Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 Here's the mod. I think these are Curt's scans. Mitch 5200techtip01_pg4.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_J64bit Posted August 3, 2005 Author Share Posted August 3, 2005 Here's the mod. I think these are Curt's scans. Mitch 901967[/snapback] Thanks for the info my 5200 is the one that needs a mod to run the 2600 adapter but on the other hand I all most got that 5200 joystick to work now but the fire buttons don't work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie_ Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Here's the mod. I think these are Curt's scans. Mitch 901967[/snapback] Thanks for the info my 5200 is the one that needs a mod to run the 2600 adapter but on the other hand I all most got that 5200 joystick to work now but the fire buttons don't work! 903489[/snapback] Get a aluminum foil, a hole punch and a crazy glue pen. Glue the foil dots to the buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Tomlin Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 I used double-sided tape to make my foil dots. I think that's more reliable than krazy glue. (Cyanoacrylate is very brittle, for one thing.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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