Marco Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Hi all, I bought a Taito Space Invaders II Cocktail recently. The cab looks very nice, but alas, the game isn't working. When I swith on the machine the cooling fan starts and the screen comes on, but just a very little bit. There are thin blue lines running across the screen, like they are chasing eachother (the picture appears more blue than it is, there are just the thin blue lines). I kept it running for 10 minutes or so, but nothing changes. Any ideas what this could be? Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadebasement Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Check the usual -fuses, connections, look for freyed wires etc. Reseat any chips that look loose. Also check for cracked solder joints or leaks from capacitors (you might notice a fishy smell) or acid from batteries. Someone should be along with more specific advice regarding checking the power supply etc too. FWIW that looks like one clean interior! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 Yeah, the inside looks almost like new! No weird smells either One thing that I noticed is that there are two connectors (in the top right hand side) that are lying loose. I didn't see any other possible connection points though (all connectors are nicely labelled). I'll follow your suggestions and start checking out the usual suspects. Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Yeah I would have to say that’s one of the cleanest interiors of a game that I have ever seen. I guess except for ones that I had to scrub clean for a few hours. Where did you get it doesn't look like it got much run time they usually suck in all sorts of dust and what not and are like black inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wade's arcades Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 I would start out by checking the usual things as mentioned before. then I would check the 5v and 12v at the edge connector of the main harness. then I would turn the machine on and give those ribbon connectors a wiggle and see if anything happens. if you still get no response I would trace out those loose connectors you were talking about and see where they gomaybe something is missing. also try adding a credit...maybe it is just a video problem. if all else fails then try smacking it on the side.. that always used to work in the old days. other than that you are looking at a board failure. let me know how things pan out for you ps just kidding about the smack it thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 I would start out by checking the usual things as mentioned before. then I would check the 5v and 12v at the edge connector of the main harness. then I would turn the machine on and give those ribbon connectors a wiggle and see if anything happens. if you still get no response I would trace out those loose connectors you were talking about and see where they gomaybe something is missing. also try adding a credit...maybe it is just a video problem. if all else fails then try smacking it on the side.. that always used to work in the old days. other than that you are looking at a board failure. let me know how things pan out for you ps just kidding about the smack it thing Haha actually I have a Defender cabinet converted into a 2 player ninja turtles that has monitor issues. The screen goes all nuts after it has been on for a while and the swift smack on the side of the cabinet works wonders to restore the picture to its original state. Though I don't recommend this as a solution at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 According to the manual I found online, B connector is the one that goes to the power supply (A connector is the 120 input). Best I can see, there is no power supply in that machine. That metal bracket underneath the loose connector would be where it mounts. Marco, looks like you need a power supply. I have a feeling it was bad before, hence it came out years ago. Now the hunt begins Anybody have a spare power supply? C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 Wow! Now there's how much I know about these beasts! I hadn't even noticed something so vital was missing. I thought the big thing on the right (on the metal box, with the two fuses on the side, and the 230 / 240 V switch) was the power supply... There are two loose connectors: a big one labelled with a B and a smaller one (now sitting near the speaker) labelled with a U. So, yes, anyone have a spare Taito power supply for me Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Yeah it definitely looks like something was there all right there is even a detached ground wire near the bottom of the picture were you circled those wire clips. Definitely looks like something is missing there. Here’s a picture of what it looks like just ignore the red circle got it out of another post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Hm, I'm confused now. I got some pics from a UK eBay auction today, and I'm no longer convinced I'm missing something. It looks different from my set, but I don't think there's actually more in there than in mine (my power supply just is nicer / smaller). Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadebasement Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 (edited) I'm not sure why Cassidy would think the psu is missing when it's clearly there, plain as day. Erm. And if it wasn't then what's juicing the monitor - fairy dust? Edited November 22, 2006 by arcadebasement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Well, the thing is that the manual has two transformers in the partslist, both located in this section of the cabinet. The fact that there are different types of psu's in the pictures of different cabinets that I've seen (due to different voltages, mine is 230 / 240 V), does complicate things Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Doesn't the transformer directly supply the electricity to the monitor? Because he has that in his cabinet at least that’s what I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I see an isolation transformer but exactly where do you see the power supply? I see a daughter card with dip settings. Find where connector B plugs in.... There are four visible holes; two in metal and two in wood to the left of the isolation transformer and fuseblock. According to the wiring schematic I found one connector goes to the boards. That is he B connector you see in the pic. The other end goes into the isolation transformer ie, power in. Yes, the monitor should get isolated signal directly but the boardset needs 5, -5 and 12 for somewhere. What ya got there ain't gonna do it. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Yeah that’s what I thought look at the picture I posted then look at yours you can even see the 4 screw holes in the wood were the thing use to be in your picture. You may have an American version of the game might be a different setup from the way ones in the UK were made. That might explain the differences you’re seeing in the pictures you got off of the UK eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadebasement Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I assumed the power supply was beneath the isolation transformer...? But now I look at it there does seem to be a strange gap - and isn't that a ground I see hanging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadebasement Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Yeah the more I look at it the more I think you're right Cassidy - sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Okay then! So, I need to look on the US market for the psu unit. Any ideas for sources I could look / ask around? Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcadebasement Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Marco - give these guy a call http://www.arcadeshop.com/ Highly recommended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBman80 Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Or try these guys there based in London http://www.thinvaders.com/ the even specialize in games made by Midway and Taito. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Marco, I don't think production will make a difference for US or Euro market. Power supplies are most likely the same. The isolation transformer is what decides what voltages get through. There is a selectable dongle on all Atari games that let you select which winds of the transformer are used. For example, half the number of secondary winds will net you half the input voltage. Very simple to drop 220 to 110. I would be very surprized if yours was not set up this way inside. Japan runs 100 V and US 110 so I am pretty sure they would not build a totally different part for Europe. Most power supplies you buy aftermarket have a switch on them for 220 input (you may have to open it up to get to it, not always visible on the outside). If you can't find an original, it would be possible to wire in a switching power supply. I only know of a few games you need an odd setup for. Most of the time its an in and out procedure. If you just cut the connector and make clean connections the new power supply could last another 30 years (ok, at least 15). We know your game is setup for 220 operation so that part is fine. The only thing to worry about now is can you find the board. Original is usually best for completeness sake. The modern power supplies do provide cleaner power to the boards though. If it helps, all my stuff is on original supples. Could make the swaps but don't. In your case, if you can't find one, may have to. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tta583 Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 I have a SI cocktail. Its not a II like yours but with the top up they look the same (from my memory). Anyway. Yes, that thing to the right would be the ISO. On mine there is a board in the floor of the cab, directly below the monitor tube, that is the actual power supply. I think you all have that all figured out. Hope I am not duplicating something above. I will admit as the post rolled on I was reading quickly. Anyway, my PS is toast as well. I have not fixed it yet, however. I was thinking of converting to a switcher. Check these out: Midway Space Invaders Switching Power Supply Conversion Kit http://www.elektronforge.com/products.htm Take a look at the pinout links. There is some info on what voltages are needed where plus insight as to how to add your own switcher. http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/manualsinvaders.html Keep in mind I have not tried either method. To be honest when I get to it I will probably make my own conversion up using the second link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 Thanks for all your help guys! No luck so far in locating a new PS though Cheers, Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 So tta, you say the power supply is UNDER the monitor? Then possibly this is still there. Marco, be careful (we've already had that discussion!) but can you take the monitor out and look under it and see if there is a board on the bottom of the machine that is missing the connectors you have loose? Worth a shot. Its possible the holes were a dust/ef shield. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanBoris Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 I refurbished that style Space Invaders II recently, and I can tell you that the PS is definitly missing from this one. It should be in the space between the monitor and the isolation transformer. Dan So tta, you say the power supply is UNDER the monitor? Then possibly this is still there. Marco, be careful (we've already had that discussion!) but can you take the monitor out and look under it and see if there is a board on the bottom of the machine that is missing the connectors you have loose? Worth a shot. Its possible the holes were a dust/ef shield. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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