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Classic gaming room remodel


Allan

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Hey Gang,

Since I like watching remodels for gaming rooms I thought I'd post some pics of my attempt at a gaming room. It's going to be small compared to some but will fit my needs perfectly. I've moved reverything to the other side of the cellar temporaraly.

 

I've put down a platform floor already and need to make some walls so I can put up some sheetrock next. I also just tore down the sheetrocked sealing to put up a false ceiling yesterday.

 

Allan

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Just be sure to protect anything you don't want covered in dust. I just did a "little" drywall work at home and days later I'm still sweeping, wiping, and mopping up the powder that is hanging in the air. Bleh. Not good for electronics!

Thanks guys.

 

Yea, I've been doing contruction on my house since I moved in. Yea I hate the dust from sheet-rock.

 

Allan

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  • 5 months later...

It's been going slow but I have made some great progress these last couple of weeks. I framed two walls, fixed some wires and plugs, replaced some damaged sheet-rock, and started some taping. Next up to do is get eight sheets of Sheet-Rock and put that up and tape it all. I hate taping but when I'm done it means I'm really close to the end. After that I have to paint, decide on what flooring and ceiling I'm going to use, buy them and put them down and up. I also need to see what I'm going to do with one of the windows. It needs to be framed and painted as well. I also have to get a couple of drop ceiling lights that will be flush with the ceiling so I'm not wacking my head on light bulbs anymore. :(

 

Allan

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You know that drop ceiling is gonna hang lower than the bulbs, right? You might be able to tack the tiles directly to the rafters. With a room like yours, I'd go with sheet rock + popcorn on the ceiling, or I'd leave it all exposed like it is now, but paint it all black.

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You know that drop ceiling is gonna hang lower than the bulbs, right? You might be able to tack the tiles directly to the rafters. With a room like yours, I'd go with sheet rock + popcorn on the ceiling, or I'd leave it all exposed like it is now, but paint it all black.

I had sheet-rock above half of it before. I tore it all down. The room is right above the kitchen so if I ever had a water leak upstairs the sheet-rock would be a mess. It's A LOT easier to replace a couple of drop ceiling tiles. The lights will be in between the rafters with cylinder lamps (I'm not sure of the right name) so they will be flush with the drop ceiling. Even if I did sheet-rock the ceiling I probably wouldn't do a popcorn ceiling because it's kind of out of style. Plus I can't stand it because it is such a pain to fix even the smallest of spots. The drop ceiling is going to be close but if I use fiberglass panels I should be able to pop them. I won't have much space between the frame of the drop ceiling and the rafters but the fiberglass panels are pretty flexible unlike the fiberboard kind of panels.

 

It won't be perfect anyways because of the heating ducks. I may just paint them white.

 

Allan

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If you use the traditional hanging bracket system I can't see using less than 2-3" even ignoring the difficulty of getting the panels in place. Plus remember the flexible panels aren't going to provide much, if any, sound or heat insulation, if that's important to you.

 

You should check out CeilingMAX if you haven't already. It's here: http://www.acpideas.com/index.cfm?XlinkID=13 and my favorite home website has a discussion about it here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/basem...1485528710.html

 

It's a new bracket system that claims to only need 1"but uses traditional suspended ceiling tiles up to 3/4" thick.

 

Recessed lighting is a good idea; but I'm not sure if you'll have enough room with the CeilingMAX system.

 

In my previous house I ended up going with the traditional system + recessed lights. Headroom wasn't as critical to me and I could buy all the stuff locally.

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Excellent!I love seeing reno/game room stuff.Looks like it will turn out cool,especially if you paint everything black!Thats what ill do if i ever get around building a game room,that and B&W floor tiles!

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Replying again... heating ducts: the previous owner of my house framed them in and added sheetrock.

 

Another option is simply to paint the ceiling black, ducts and all. A lot of people are pretty happy with that cheap and easy "solution."

It's right above the kitchen so I don't want to sheet rock but I might do it around the ducks. I have to think about that one. If I paint part of the ceiling I wouldn't do it in black. I'm trying to ad light to the place and black paint isn't going to help that.

 

Allan

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Excellent!I love seeing reno/game room stuff.Looks like it will turn out cool,especially if you paint everything black!Thats what ill do if i ever get around building a game room,that and B&W floor tiles!

Well, it's my computer room, game room, and study room so I really don't want to use black. I like when people try to make an arcade and use a lot of black but I'm not really going for that effect.

 

Allan

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If you use the traditional hanging bracket system I can't see using less than 2-3" even ignoring the difficulty of getting the panels in place. Plus remember the flexible panels aren't going to provide much, if any, sound or heat insulation, if that's important to you.

 

You should check out CeilingMAX if you haven't already. It's here: http://www.acpideas.com/index.cfm?XlinkID=13 and my favorite home website has a discussion about it here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/basem...1485528710.html

 

It's a new bracket system that claims to only need 1"but uses traditional suspended ceiling tiles up to 3/4" thick.

 

Recessed lighting is a good idea; but I'm not sure if you'll have enough room with the CeilingMAX system.

 

In my previous house I ended up going with the traditional system + recessed lights. Headroom wasn't as critical to me and I could buy all the stuff locally.

Thanks for the links. That looks interesting. Unfortunetly I already have most of the framing for the false ceiling. Luckily it's only an inch and a half tall. I've put in false ceilings before so I kind of know what I'm up against. When I'm done I figure I'll have 3 and half inches from the top of my head to the ceiling. That should be plenty. It's not like I'll be standing in the place much anyways.

 

Allan

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  • 2 months later...

Well, it's been going VERY SLOOWWW but I have made some progress. Here's some pics. I have one part of one wall to finish taping. This part is a pain because there was paneling on the sheet-rock that was glued to it. The parts where the glue was ate throw the paper. So now when I tape over it the paper bubbles up. I had the same problem upstairs in another room. You can either put another layer of sheet-rock over it or cut out the bad sections. To save money I decided to cut the sections out.

 

The rest of the walls are mostly done except for a couple of spots that have pinholes. Once that's done I need to:

 

1. Paint

2. Put the ceiling up

3. Put another layer of plywood down for strength

4. Frame the door out

5. Decide on what flooring I'm going to use and put that down.

6. Install all the molding and paint it.

 

Allan

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Well, it's been going VERY SLOOWWW but I have made some progress. Here's some pics. I have one part of one wall to finish taping. This part is a pain because there was paneling on the sheet-rock that was glued to it. The parts where the glue was ate throw the paper. So now when I tape over it the paper bubbles up. I had the same problem upstairs in another room. You can either put another layer of sheet-rock over it or cut out the bad sections. To save money I decided to cut the sections out.

 

 

Allan

 

Kind of reminds me of when I worked on the unfinished basement at my old house. Sanding the drywall is the biggest pain in the a55. In the interest of cash flow, I had to spread that project over a two year time period.

 

Anyway, the issue with the ducts I had the same problem with water pipes. We installed drywall from that point back to the doorway (it was in a hallway). We still had access above the drywall since it was surrounded by tile on three sides and an unfinished mud room on the other. I believe the drop was about 4 inches lower than the drop ceiling and it did not look bad at all.

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Well, it's been going VERY SLOOWWW but I have made some progress. Here's some pics. I have one part of one wall to finish taping. This part is a pain because there was paneling on the sheet-rock that was glued to it. The parts where the glue was ate throw the paper. So now when I tape over it the paper bubbles up. I had the same problem upstairs in another room. You can either put another layer of sheet-rock over it or cut out the bad sections. To save money I decided to cut the sections out.

 

 

Allan

 

 

 

Let me take a wild guess - you'll need about about 4' of drywall to cover the ducts and you'll have 6.5' of clearance?

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  • 4 months later...
Well, it's been going VERY SLOOWWW but I have made some progress. Here's some pics. I have one part of one wall to finish taping. This part is a pain because there was paneling on the sheet-rock that was glued to it. The parts where the glue was ate throw the paper. So now when I tape over it the paper bubbles up. I had the same problem upstairs in another room. You can either put another layer of sheet-rock over it or cut out the bad sections. To save money I decided to cut the sections out.

 

 

Allan

 

 

 

Let me take a wild guess - you'll need about about 4' of drywall to cover the ducts and you'll have 6.5' of clearance?

I wish it was that much.

 

Allan

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  • 2 months later...

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