Seeking suggestions for a dead 5200...

[Jimmer]

I bought a reconditioned 4-port 5200 from 4Jays in 2002. Was very happy with it until Sunday. It just stopped working. It won't turn on. A day or two before I noted a "blink" in my office but none of the other electronics in the area were effected (even the VCR's clock maintained its time) so I didn't think twice about it. Now I'm wondering if the blink represents the 5200 "messin' up."

 

I'm figuring there are 4 possibilities:

 

1. The power supply is dead.

2. The RF switchbox is dead.

3. The actual console is dead.

4. A combination of 2 or more of the above.

 

I'm electronically challenged so I'm not someone that's comfortable with opening up stuff to check them out. With that understanding, are there some quick and dirty ways to try to isolate what's wrong without sending in the whole thing?

 

Thanks!

 

- Jim -

[VectorGamer]

Buying a new switch box may be a good idea versus trashing it. Nevertheless, it the 5200 is toast, you may be able to sell it for parts.

[+Allan]

When you turn it on, what do you see?

 

Allan

[Jimmer]

When you turn it on, what do you see?

 

Allan

 

Nothing - I push the on/off button and the red console light does not come on. I don't even see a flicker on the TV

 

- Jim -

[+Allan]

When you turn it on, what do you see?

 

Allan

 

Nothing - I push the on/off button and the red console light does not come on. I don't even see a flicker on the TV

 

- Jim -

So your getting 'snow' on the screen.

 

I'll look at the repair manual later but if you get nothing on the screen and no red light I would start with swapping the power supply or the switchbox.

 

Allan

[VectorGamer]

When you turn it on, what do you see?

 

Allan

 

Nothing - I push the on/off button and the red console light does not come on. I don't even see a flicker on the TV

 

- Jim -

 

I had that problem with mine. I believe I fixed it by cleaning the button...

[Jimmer]

When you turn it on, what do you see?

 

Allan

 

Nothing - I push the on/off button and the red console light does not come on. I don't even see a flicker on the TV

 

- Jim -

So your getting 'snow' on the screen.

 

I'll look at the repair manual later but if you get nothing on the screen and no red light I would start with swapping the power supply or the switchbox.

 

Allan

 

Yep - that makes sense. Thank you!

[zylon]

Try replacing the fuse inside the power cord. The box is held together by 4 screws under the pads. Inside, there's an old glass type fuse. When my old switchbox used to flicker, it would blow that fuse.

[tz101]

I agree with Zylon. There is a fuse inside the RF switch box that sometimes blows. This is probably the culprit here.

[phuzzed]

I had a system where the 4013 flip-flop chip by the power switch had blown. Cheap part, but unfortunetly, its not socked on most models (if any). But if the chip is locked into the off position and won't "flip" or "flop", it could stay off indefinetly.

 

I also had a system that did the exact opposite: It would stay on and wouldn't power off. Again, the 4013 was to blame.

 

But, everybody here in on the right track... check the obvious first... fuses, connections, power supplies, etc.

[Jimmer]

Try replacing the fuse inside the power cord. The box is held together by 4 screws under the pads. Inside, there's an old glass type fuse. When my old switchbox used to flicker, it would blow that fuse.

 

I need to get really basic - under the pads are holes but no obvious screws. Where are the screws?

 

- Jim -

[zylon]

Try replacing the fuse inside the power cord. The box is held together by 4 screws under the pads. Inside, there's an old glass type fuse. When my old switchbox used to flicker, it would blow that fuse.

 

I need to get really basic - under the pads are holes but no obvious screws. Where are the screws?

 

- Jim -

They should be way down inside the holes. The only ones I've opened were the first style with a cord on each end of the box. The later style should be similar. If I still had one, I'd show a pic.

http://www.atarihq.com/5200/5200faq/05_01.html

Edited January 6, 2010 by zylon

[Jimmer]

Try replacing the fuse inside the power cord. The box is held together by 4 screws under the pads. Inside, there's an old glass type fuse. When my old switchbox used to flicker, it would blow that fuse.

 

I need to get really basic - under the pads are holes but no obvious screws. Where are the screws?

 

- Jim -

They should be way down inside the holes. The only ones I've opened were the first style with a cord on each end of the box. The later style should be similar. If I still had one, I'd show a pic.

http://www.atarihq.com/5200/5200faq/05_01.html

 

Thanks for the link - my power supply is CO18187 (the 4-port noted at atarihq) but there are no screws on the bottom allowing "easy access." This is the third 5200 I've owned (all were 4-porters) and it seemed like the other two power supplies had cords coming from both ends (1 from each end). This one has 2 coming from the same end. Maybe this is a later version of the power supply?

 

I think I'm going to order another power supply as it seems to be the logical starting point.

 

Thank you all for the suggestions!

 

- Jim -

[+Mitch]

There were two types of 5200 power supplies, one had two screws holding it together and the other one was glued. The glued ones were a pain to get apart with destroying it.

 

Mitch

[bohoki]

There were two types of 5200 power supplies, one had two screws holding it together and the other one was glued. The glued ones were a pain to get apart with destroying it.

 

Mitch

 

 

i find they make a good chock block for a light aircraft along with busted 1541 drives

[Jimmer]

There were two types of 5200 power supplies, one had two screws holding it together and the other one was glued. The glued ones were a pain to get apart with destroying it.

 

Mitch

 

That explains a lot - It looks like I made the right decision to order another.

 

Thank you!

 

- Jim -

[tz101]

Here is the fuse inside the power adapter. It is fairly easy to replace with minimal soldering skills. All you have to do is use a razor knife along the edges of the glued power pack to get it open.

[zylon]

Another method I've used to open 2600 power supplies was squeeze them in a bench vise. Just enough to crack the glue.

[Jimmer]

The answer:

 

1. Bought a new power supply from 4Jays (the 2-screw type, yay!) - made no difference

2. Don at 4Jays checked out the switchbox - worked fine

3. Bought a new (to me) 4-port console only. Got it Thursday. Works like a dream.

 

Thanks for the help all.

 

- Jim -

[atariksi]

Here is the fuse inside the power adapter. It is fairly easy to replace with minimal soldering skills. All you have to do is use a razor knife along the edges of the glued power pack to get it open.

 

The bigger question-- how do you properly close the power supply? I opened up an Atari 520ST power supply once and now it's risky to use for kids or I have to close the vents with tape and risk it breaking down again.

[atariksi]

The answer:

 

1. Bought a new power supply from 4Jays (the 2-screw type, yay!) - made no difference

2. Don at 4Jays checked out the switchbox - worked fine

3. Bought a new (to me) 4-port console only. Got it Thursday. Works like a dream.

 

Thanks for the help all.

 

- Jim -

 

I had a 5200 that wouldn't turn on because some screw inside had come loose and the big metal plates touched. So perhaps, you can check it out; in worse case, you have a lot of good socketed ICs for re-using in another A5200 or 8-bit Atari computer.

[tz101]

Here is the fuse inside the power adapter. It is fairly easy to replace with minimal soldering skills. All you have to do is use a razor knife along the edges of the glued power pack to get it open.

 

The bigger question-- how do you properly close the power supply? I opened up an Atari 520ST power supply once and now it's risky to use for kids or I have to close the vents with tape and risk it breaking down again.

 

Super glue works wonders.

[atariksi]

Here is the fuse inside the power adapter. It is fairly easy to replace with minimal soldering skills. All you have to do is use a razor knife along the edges of the glued power pack to get it open.

 

The bigger question-- how do you properly close the power supply? I opened up an Atari 520ST power supply once and now it's risky to use for kids or I have to close the vents with tape and risk it breaking down again.

 

Super glue works wonders.

 

Krazy glue didn't work that good; what item # is super glue at Office Depot that sticks better?

[kamakazi]

Do you use a surge protector with your Atari gear? These older systems can't handle the sudden surges power companies send out without warning. The 5200 and A8s don't come with circuitry to protect them from this...the 5200 being one of them. And by all means, don't use an A8 power supply on the 5200...these may look identical, but are not the same. The A8 power supply doesn't convert power to DC...the 400/800 house the circuits to do this. Almost sounds like it might of blown the flip flop.

 

Just some food for thought. As for the glue, try Gorilla Glue.