fibrewire Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Does Best or MyAtari sell 1064 enclosures? EDIT: I see Best sells just the 1064 Upgrade boxed for $49.95 - Limit one per customer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Ah - shame. My conversion looks a little yellowed next to Phil's - which looks absolutely spanking new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fibrewire Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Check out item #6 on this list here for SIO2SD cases EDIT: Somehow i posted here by mistake, crosslinked, Matrix 'de ja vu', blackout, timewarp, etc. - so i went with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Well - I've hit problems with the latest build again. Phil wanted a 20x2 LCD so I ordered one from Hong Kong in January while I worked on other things. Of course, the mistake I made was assuming the thing would work. I finally wired it up last night - as the 1064 build entered the "glue it all together" stage - to find the backlight doesn't work. Now, these things have a standard 16 pin arrangement (although the SIO2SD doesn't use pins 7-10 as it drives the screen in 4-bit mode), and the 20x2 LCD even helpfully has all the pins labelled on the back of the LCD. I can't see how I could have the anode and cathode reversed: I've measured +5v across the actual legs of the LED, but it's not producing any light. Any suggestions before I bin it and order another? I can't even remember which dealer I bought the damned thing from... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Heh... defying all logic and documentation, wouldn't you know it was one of those fundamental mistakes: cathode and anode reversed. I've never seen a screen this size on an SIO2SD - looks really good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox-1 / mnx Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 It should have said "no card socket". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Dangit, I wish you would stop doing these conversions... every time I see a new post I want to have you do one for me, but with shipping back and forth and cost I can't justify it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) Heh... take your time about it. I'm in no major hurry to do this again. OK: I need some quick, basic electronics advice here. This is the SIO2PC board in Phil's 1064 Now, I have four LEDs on the front of the case: a large red power LED (matching the XL), and SIO2SD read, write and error LEDs. I rather think the error LED might be better purposed as a general I/O indicatior for the SIO2PC, though. Using the illustration above, how might I accomplish this with a few wires? I assume the TX and RX lights very much depend on which kind of SIO2PC cable one's using... although, this being a USB interface... Anyway: we have only one spare light on the fascia, so input/output need not be separate. I just want a light to flash when USB activity is taking place. Edited April 3, 2011 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Hello Jon Why not use a multicoloured LED? One colour for read, one colour for write. sincerely Mathy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 It's an idea: a friend and I discussed that very thing last year when we were designing custom boards. But I want to get this job wrapped up today. I just lack the knowledge to know what needs to be wired up so that reads and writes both illuminate the same LED. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unholy Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Bi-color LEDs are basically connected the same way regular LEDs are. In this case, one anode goes to TX(+) the other to RX(+). Common cathode goes to the ground. Done and done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 So, is it safe (and wise) to connect both TX and RX to a common anode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unholy Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Absolutely not. Bi-color LEDs typically have a common CATHODE and separate ANODES for each of the colors (three leads total). Common ground, separate signals, in other words. Connecting both TX and RX signals to a single anode would short out the circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) OK. Thanks. I'll ask Phil what he'd prefer. I'll probably end up putting extra LEDs on the front Erm... Phil, what would you prefer? Edited April 3, 2011 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Nearly done: The screen - when lit up - looks gorgeous. I'll definitely use one of these 20x2 blue panels again. A peek at the insides (not yet fully fixed down and cable-tied): 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox-1 / mnx Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 There are several different variations of bi-color LED's. Most common is common-cathode but also common-anode exists. Another variant has 4 leads, so separate cathodes/anodes for each color. Again another variant has only 2 leads and changes color by reversing polarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 I suppose with three bi-colour LEDs, we could get both lots of lights wired up and fitted to the front panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Philsan Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I suppose with three bi-colour LEDs, we could get both lots of lights wired up and fitted to the front panel. Nice idea! But what happens whenSIO2SD and SIO2PC are functioning at the same time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Yeah - it's a nice idea, but the LEDs aren't so cheap. Well - from what I can see, the RED/GREEN ones are cheap... couldn't find any nicer colours so far. I suppose if the two devices were working at the same time, you'd get a mixture of the two colours (?). Green and Red would be yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox-1 / mnx Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Combining green and red gives an amber/orange-like color somehow. With bi-color LED's, for I/O data I use green for reads (RX) and red for writes (TX). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Philsan Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Another solution could be: Led 1: SIO2SD read/wriite (green/red) Led 2: SIO2PC read/write (green/red) Led 3: SIO2SD/SIO2PC errors (red/orange-yellow) But I still like red leds only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 I still suggest - then - all red LEDs on the front, functioning as before, and TX/RX LEDs on the backplate next to the USB port (also red?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 There are several different variations of bi-color LED's. Most common is common-cathode but also common-anode exists. Another variant has 4 leads, so separate cathodes/anodes for each color. Again another variant has only 2 leads and changes color by reversing polarity. It is easy enough to adapt a common anode bi-color LED to work instead of a common cathode version or vice versa, as long as the LEDs signal sources are TTL level they can be inverted before attaching to the LEDs signal terminals. Reverse polarity bi-color LEDs are basically 2 normal LEDs connected anode to cathode, connect pullup resistors to both terminals to supply power/current as needed. This operates similar to the common anode LED, requiring a low signal at an LED terminal to activate the desired color. The following web-page show such a circuit, the circuit also combines the LED outputs with clock signals using NAND gates which wouldn't be needed/wanted in normal use. http://www.play-hookey.com/digital/experiments/bicolor_led.html According to this web-page, http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm, there are some common-cathode LEDS sold as tri-color, the most popular color is red/green which combine to form yellow when both are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 It's unfortunate that the most readily available bi-colour LEDs are in such unharmonious hues. This kind of thing is important to the aesthetic! Case lid is not screwed down and is tilted forward slightly: the buttons are properly vertically centred when the lid is sitting properly. The main problem I have with this conversion is that it makes my own 1064/SIO2SD look like a real POS in comparison! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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