Eltigro Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I have a top loader NES, Genesis, and a TG-16 hooked up to my LCD. No "older" atari systems (just a Jag). But I haven't seen any trouble yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I have a top loader NES, Genesis, and a TG-16 hooked up to my LCD. No "older" atari systems (just a Jag). But I haven't seen any trouble yet. you won't unless you leave it sit burning in for days and days!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Video Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Damage from burnin or something? It's doubtful, LCD's don't really wear the way a led or phosphor does. Now, my experience with LCD TV's (and I don't have near the problem with LCD monitors, probably better parts) you'll only realistically get 3-4 years of use out of a LCD TV one way or the other. Now, if your TV has LED backlighting, those do wear, slightly, and I could see games with a lot of static dark or light areas, could eventually wear on the backlight, however, LED's have such a long lifespan I doubt you'll have to worry much about that. Huh?? Why would a backlight wear faster depending on the image in-front of it?? Or are the tv's nowadays varying the backlight brightness AND being selective about what area of the screen gets more or less of it? Yep, newer LCD backlt TV's have an array of LED's instead of a single fluorescent tube like the older ones, and most of the LED TV's can change the brightness of individual areas of the screen to produce darker darks than a standard LCD would otherwise. I think the TV I got has about 144 segments individually lit by backlights and you can see the difference when a scene with lots of dark comes on. Now I haven't heard of any LED TV's being damaged by constant patterns of light and dark, like an old video game can do, but I do know LED's get dimmer as they are used. Granted, I still think your TV will die a long time before the individual LED's start to fade out or anything....or maybe I just have bad luck with LCD's Some of them look pretty darn good too, the LED backlit TV's look really good now....I'd still prefer a good old tube though, for classic stuff...but some of the best LED's are just about up there with plasma screens for image quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Some of them look pretty darn good too, the LED backlit TV's look really good now.... They really do look good. I refused to use an LCD as a general video display until they came out with the LED LCD sets. I replaced an aging plasma with one of them, it looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zagroseckt Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 First off there is no way to burn in an LCD tv they simply do not work that way.... An LCD TV im simply a collection of windows to a white defuser for the backlight there is NO way to burn in pixels on a LCD The only Displays that suffer burn in are... O-LED Organic LED. where sections can apear dimmer if ran constently. this can be cleard up with a negitive imige or statick Plasma Sections can and DO slightly fade or "burn in" on older sets (early 2000-2003) and reeeely cheep sets this problem can get verry notesible but for the most part does not effect viewing while the set it running. Corection is again a negitive flip or static or a cycle through R.G.B with each color cycling in 4hr increments. White will not wipe the mild shadow. Newer plasmas May show a shadow on power down of a static image but will disapate even in the worst case situations withing hours of running a moving picture. This is due to improved fosphers .. O-LED's havent quite gotten to that point except in prototype stages. CRT Cathode Ray Tube --- Bubble sets --- boob tubes --- old school --- The only CRT's that are effected by burning are single fospher displays. The worst burn in in a CRT system most commenly shows up in projection 3 tube sets when one of the 3 tubes has had a static full birhgt imige on it for extended time. this can leave a discolord in the image or even cause the convergince of one tube to fall out of spec bugger up a whole section of the screen. The RGB Cycling trick dosnt work all that well on tri tube projection sets it can fix it but you'll be retuning the color for weeks Single tube projection sets can also be effected to a lesser extent These to can be fixed by a static or color temp calabration (cycling through R.G.B err ya and old Black and white tv's can shaddow/burn in The ONLY LCD issue i can think of that would even remotely be considerd burn in has to deal with LCD projectors. all be it not quite true burn in if a section is black or dark for extended time while the rest of the screen is white or light when the imige flips those sections of the screen that has built up heat (blocking light) can bleed light through when the picture go's dark. Or in worse case it can warp or even melt the LCD cell if there isnt enough airflow in the display DLP's do not suffer from any of this. There just a crap load of mirrors and a spinning color disc (or if your rich or save up) 3 sepret light sorces and 3 sepret DLP chips Laser DLP and Laser scan projection. DLP. no mirrors again there not effected. Scan projection ok i just had an internal image of the word GAME OVER catching fire on the wall. but no ... not effected by burn in at all. Well... You do get diode ware but then you have a whole color being dim not a shadow mask of somthing. and this ware will happen over the life of the unit regardless of use. And thats that i think i've coverd all the in use display tech out there. oh for those still wondering in CRT tv's why burn-in was never realy much of an isue its becos of the refresh rate of the raster line. a large crt or small one at the beam strength used just dosnt heat up the fosphers to there brakedown point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zagroseckt Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Now if your blowing the Analog to digital board's on the TV i'd look at the console to make sure it's not bleeding DC or excesive AC into the line. if your using RF there should be no problem considering most cable lines now carry 32/64V AC along with the tv picture. isolation has ben in play for decades. If your worried about your TV just use a video switch. a good one. somthing that filters and boosts or regulats the signal. not just a pass through VCR's come in handy for this. they tend to not be as ficle as the tv itself and you can recorde your gameplay If all else fails. build a jack pack. the simplest of wich is your composet RCA with a 50ohm resister on the center post may cause some older games to dim tho. you can go farther if you want. For RF Use a non physical coupling .. or isolation circuit. Basickly 2 inductors verry close to each other. inside a shilded cage/box easy to setup. and build yourself. helps protect both the console and the tv from harmonic transferince .. note i sed helps dosnt compleatly remove youd need some kind of optical isolation to remove. but stops DC transfer and buffers out alot of high end and midband ac flowback that can disrupt some ic's in newer sets or older fickle consoles. (the ac hum is of so little aperige its the interferince that causes all the disruption and this week interrferince wich can not normely even be seen is removed by the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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