Best soldering tool(s)

[Jess Ragan]

After browning out the circuit board for a portable television that I really wanted to use in a project (but now will not be using in a project...), I think it might be time to pick up a new soldering iron; something that's reasonably priced, has a thin tip, and generates less heat. My old iron is starting to show its age, with a tip that looks like the end of a half-sharpened crayon, and at thirty watts it's much too hot for delicate electronics. What specific model(s) would you recommend as a replacement?

 

Also, I'm having issues with removing solder from boards. Using a solder sucker hasn't worked out too well for me; the solder just freezes as it's being drawn into the tube, leaving it stuck there on the board. Desoldering braid is slightly more effective, but doesn't remove it all and sometimes gets stuck on the board. Maybe a better soldering iron would help me remove the solder faster, I don't know.

[RickR]

Harbor Freight has a nice 15W soldering iron for about $10. Assuming you have one of those nearby.

 

I think the best desoldering tools are the kind that have an iron and sucker all in one. It has a button that you press to suck in the solder once you've got it melted. Like this: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FNew-Soldering-Irons-Desoldering-Pump-220V-30W-Solder-Sucker-Removal-Tools-%2F330931428304%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem4d0d0cdbd0

[+5-11under]

I think the best desoldering tools are the kind that have an iron and sucker all in one. It has a button that you press to suck in the solder once you've got it melted. Like this: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FNew-Soldering-Irons-Desoldering-Pump-220V-30W-Solder-Sucker-Removal-Tools-%2F330931428304%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem4d0d0cdbd0

That looks like a nice addition to the tool box!

[+grips03]

good solder wick works wonders. Also you can add flux to wick to make even more effective. Some wicks come with flux already applied. If it gets stuck to area your working with just re-heat. Getting stuck rarely happens. Hakko FX-888D with 1.8 chisel tip is very good. I think it comes with this tip by default.

 

edit:

I use this solder wick

http://www.all-spec....00/60-3-10.html

Edited June 1, 2013 by grips03

[+Stephen Moss]

After browning out the circuit board for a portable television that I really wanted to use in a project (but now will not be using in a project...), I think it might be time to pick up a new soldering iron; something that's reasonably priced, has a thin tip, and generates less heat. My old iron is starting to show its age, with a tip that looks like the end of a half-sharpened crayon, and at thirty watts it's much too hot for delicate electronics. What specific model(s) would you recommend as a replacement?

Temperature should not be dependent on Wattage (although it sometimes is on cheaper and therefore poorly designed irons). The construction of the iron itself and/or the attached tip determines the temperature. For example at work I use a 50Watt Iron, I originally used a No.7 bit (about 320 degrees C) but now use a No.8 bit (about 360 degrees C) as I needed a higher temperature for unleaded solder. Soldering takes heat from the tip of the iron, the higher the wattage the quicker the temperature of the tip recovers so for say a 15Watt Iron you might need to wait for 2 seconds between soldering operation for the temperature to recover but for a 50 Watt iron that may be only 0.5 seconds - not necessarily exact times here but just used to illustrate the point. If you have damaged the board through overheating it is more likely due you applying the soldering iron for too long than the wattage of the iron unless it is faulty and became much hotter than it should be. Are you sure you have damaged the board and it is not just burn solder flux you re looking at which can just be scrapped off?

Also, I'm having issues with removing solder from boards. Using a solder sucker hasn't worked out too well for me; the solder just freezes as it's being drawn into the tube, leaving it stuck there on the board. Desoldering braid is slightly more effective, but doesn't remove it all and sometimes gets stuck on the board. Maybe a better soldering iron would help me remove the solder faster, I don't know.

If the solder sucker is in good condition and the tip is not badly melted then it sounds like it may be bad technique. I see that with undergrads at work all the time, they leave too much time between removing the soldering iron and using the solder sucker. As soon as you remove the iron the solder starts to cool once a cool crust starts to form on the outer surface it is difficult to remove. You need to have the sucker primed and right next to the joint, ideally on the opposite side from tip of the iron (at roughly 45 degree), as you remove the tip of the iron tilt the sucker up over the joint and once there press the button and it should suck the solder away. It almost need to be one movement as you only have about a second or two before the crust starts to form. The solder used could also be an issue as I find solder with high activation fluxes don't flow very well, medium activation flux is ok. A heated sucker or iron with a sucker attachment may be better for you but try practicing on some scrap circuits if you can however, if the PCB is double sided with plated through holes you really need a desolder station but they run at about £1000 as it is very difficult to get solder out of a plated hole with a normal solder sucker.

[channelmaniac]

It all depends on what you have to spend budget-wise. I just picked up a Pace MBT-201 with soldering and desoldering iron off of Craigslist for $150.