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The Official NEO-GEO Thread!


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16 minutes ago, CZroe said:


My childhood friend moved in a couple years ago after a divorce and saw my brother and I playing Ryoko no Ken (Art of Fighting) to test out our new OSSC. He had just came home and we didn't say anything to him but he glanced at it while on the way to his room and froze in his tracks to comment on how amazing it looked.

Next thing you know he was playing Ryoko No Ken 2, Samurai Spirits (Samurai Showdown), Shin Samurai Spirits (Samurai Showdown II), Garou Densetsu SPECIAL (Fatal Fury SPECIAL), Crossed Swords, and more. The only one he didn't like was Riding Hero. Even when he was done he pulled up a webcam and started talking to some dude in Spain about how awesome the Neo Geo was. :)

Anyway, this was the old DVI version of the OSSC with the audio upgrade board installed. It was running old firmware from 2016 I believe and I did not load any custom settings or timings. It was an old 1080p TV that could only accept 480p (Line 2X) from the OSSC (Sony KDL-52XBR2). It still looked so good and sharp that it really made his night. :)

Every AES should be paired with an OSSC. It's too bad they they stopped making the Neo Geo adapter for HD Retrovision cables. Thankfully I already have mine but this makes it more difficult for anyone who wants to experience it this way.



I used mine when diagnosing an AES with a bad voltage regulator. You could hear some strange noises that way a few seconds before a big pop that causes the system to power off. It comes back on 10-25 seconds later when the LM2576 voltage regulator cools off enough. Cooling and thermal paste made it *almost* go away but I could still trigger it by playing for hours or pressing down hard on it.

Another used for the headphone jack is as a stereo output since the AV Multi-out is mono-only. I use my Sega CD loop-back cable to connect stereo to my HD Retrovision stereo input and it works like a charm. :)

Yeah, I bought the Neo Geo HD Retrovision converter the moment that they announced they were going to stop producing them. I had absolutely no intention of buying a Neo Geo before then. Now I have to figure out what to do with this Neo Geo and its nasty video quality.

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Yeah, I bought the Neo Geo HD Retrovision converter the moment that they announced they were going to stop producing them. I had absolutely no intention of buying a Neo Geo before then. Now I have to figure out what to do with this Neo Geo and its nasty video quality.


My AES 3-6 console looks great through it but I also tried a 3-5 that had checker-boarding (a known issue for 3-5 consoles). Now there is a good RGB bypass that takes care of this. Sorry to hear that yours has "nasty" video quality. :( Any idea what revision you have?
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3 minutes ago, CZroe said:


 

 


My AES 3-6 console looks great through it but I also tried a 3-5 that had checker-boarding (a known issue for 3-5 consoles). Now there is a good RGB bypass that takes care of this. Sorry to hear that yours has "nasty" video quality. :( Any idea what revision you have?

 

Nope. Is it possible to open it without killing the little rubber feet?

 

I'll take a picture of it on my Trinitron with the HD Retrovision cables so you can see what it looks like. Even when the screen is black it looks pretty bad.

Edited by Steven Pendleton
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Alright, here are some pictures. This is what the screen looks like when the Neo Geo is displaying a completely black screen.

Pic_0426_295.thumb.jpg.71149433ac5ab683f330e515489b5347.jpg

 

Here are some buildings. Those aren't scanlines! The actual scanlines are visible here, but as you can see, my Trinitron has tiny little scanlines that fit easily between the jailbars or whatever these are.

 

Pic_0426_297.thumb.jpg.957da3881d3d290a13748e1f80c05bab.jpg

 

Finally, Terry.

 

Pic_0426_298.thumb.jpg.b48f70cf2b0d13000cf501545a9fda06.jpg

Edited by Steven Pendleton
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Nope. Is it possible to open it without killing the little rubber feet?  

I'll take a picture of it on my Trinitron with the HD Retrovision cables so you can see what it looks like. Even when the screen is black it looks pretty bad

 

It's difficult but usually possible to see the board rev through the cartridge slot (right edge on most versions) but in your case there is no need...

 

Alright, here are some pictures. This is what the screen looks like when the Neo Geo is displaying a completely black screen.

*snip*

Here are some buildings. Those aren't scanlines! The actual scanlines are visible here, but as you can see, my Trinitron has tiny little scanlines that fit easily between the jailbars or whatever these are.

...with those jailbars it's clearly a AES3-6. 3-6 has the best stock RGB output except for those jailbars. They are an easy fix but it does require removing the feet to disassemble the console.

 

For whatever reason, SNK added some traces to the RGB lines that go across the board and end... nowhere. There are a bunch of unpopulated component footprints with no components installed. Still, those vestigial traces connected to the RGB lines act as antennas, picking up switching interference from the crystal osscilator/clock generator and feeding it back through the video encoder.

 

Literally all you do is cut the trace. I went a little further and remove the traces entirely in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/NeAUEI8KZaE

 

I know you don't like to mod your consoles and it does require you to mar the foam rubber feet, but there's another good reason to do it: Over time some corrosion from manufacturing eats through traces on 3-6 consoles. Almost every non-working AES I've ever seen that had not been previously opened was a 3-6 with at least one tiny spot of corrosion inside. Here's another one I fixed with a tiny corrosion spot that was causing an issue:

 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/pn4lyZHsSTE

 

I told Mobius Strip Tech about this issue but he was having trouble finding it at first. Eventually he found the corrosion UNDERNEATH one of the chips! Yes, this definitely comes from the factory. They are always tiny spots on otherwise clean boards where something corrosive nearby seems to have splashed flecks of the corrosive substance onto the PCB during manufacturing. It just takes decades to finish eating through a trace and causing an issue so you may not have an issue but it's still worth looking for

 

I suggest cleaning any obvious spots then getting a toothbrush with isopropyl and going over every inch on the top side since some flecks are so small they are almost invisible and yet still able to cause a problem. Flood the chips so that alcohol gets under them. Hopefully whatever corrosive material that may be where you can't reach will get diluted and spread out enough that it won't eat through a trace or chip leg or anything.

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1 minute ago, CZroe said:

 


It's difficult but usually possible to see the board rev through the cartridge slot (right edge on most versions) but in your case there is no need...


...with those jailbars it's clearly a AES3-6. 3-6 has the best stock RGB output except for those jailbars. They are an easy fix but it does require removing the feet to disassemble the console.

For whatever reason, SNK added some traces to the RGB lines that go across the board and end... nowhere. There are a bunch of unpopulated component footprints with no components installed. Still, those vestigial traces connected to he RGB lines act as antennas, picking up switching interference from the crystal osscilator/clock generator and feeding it back through the video encoder.

Literally all you do is cut the trace. I went a little further and remove the traces entirely in this video:

 



I know you don't like to mod your consoles and it does require you to mar the foam rubber feet, but there's another good reason to do it: Over time some corrosion from manufacturing eats through traces on 3-6 consoles. Almost every non-working AES I've ever seen that had not been previously opened was a 3-6 with at least one tiny spot of corrosion inside. Here's another one O fixed with a tiny corrosion spot that was causing an issue:

 



I told Mobius Strip Tech about this issue but he was having trouble finding it at first. Eventually he found the corrosion UNDERNEATH one of the chips! Yes, this definitely comes from the factory. They are always tiny spots on otherwise clean boards where something corrosive nearby seems to have splashed flecks of the corrosive substance onto the PCB during manufacturing. It just takes decades to finish eating through a trace and causing an issue so you may not have an issue but it's still worth looking for.

I suggest cleaning any obvious spots then getting a toothbrush with isopropyl and going over every inch on the top side since some flecks are so small they are al.ost invisible and yet still able to cause a problem. Flood the chips so that alcohol gets under them. Hopefully whatever corrosive material that may be where you can't reach will get diluted and spread out enough that it won't eat through a trace or chip leg or anything.

Yeah, I have been seriously considering breaking my no-mod rule for this Neo Geo just so I don't have to search for a good one since that is a pain, and I just checked the cart slot and it is a 3-6. I did look in there a few hours ago to see if I could find it, but it really is at the far right side so it's no wonder I missed it. I don't really care about killing the little feet, but the stores will, I imagine, so that's why I didn't rip them off and take a look inside. I guess I will have to put some effort into this Neo Geo to get a good result. I know my way around Genesis and Mega Drive hardware revisions, but this thing is completely unknown to me.

 

Thanks a lot. I have no idea what I will do next, but I think I'll just keep this Neo Geo and fix it.

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Yeah, I have been seriously considering breaking my no-mod rule for this Neo Geo just so I don't have to search for a good one since that is a pain, and I just checked the cart slot and it is a 3-6. I did look in there a few hours ago to see if I could find it, but it really is at the far right side so it's no wonder I missed it. I don't really care about killing the little feet, but the stores will, I imagine, so that's why I didn't rip them off and take a look inside. I guess I will have to put some effort into this Neo Geo to get a good result. I know my way around Genesis and Mega Drive hardware revisions, but this thing is completely unknown to me.
 
Thanks a lot. I have no idea what I will do next, but I think I'll just keep this Neo Geo and fix it.

3-6 is my favorite revision because the jailbar fix is so easy and the resulting quality is much better than the early revisions. 3-5 would be just as good except half do the checker-boarding thing and there is no known fix without doing a total RGB bypass (cutting three traces is MUCH easier).

I always peel the feet off and stick them back on intact but they are foam so it's easy to tear them and impossible to do without making them look tampered-with (picks, creases, folds, etc). On the next one I think I'll try a different approach, like using a razor to cut a slit and pushing my screwdriver through to access the screw underneath. That means having to screw it back blindly but it will probably look better in the end.
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1 minute ago, CZroe said:


3-6 is my favorite revision because the jailbar fix is so easy and the resulting quality is much better than the early revisions. 3-5 would be just as good except half do the checker-boarding thing and there is no known fix without doing a total RGB bypass (cutting three traces is MUCH easier).

I always peel the feet off and stick them back on intact but they are foam so it's easy to tear them and impossible to do without making them look tampered-with (picks, creases, folds, etc). On the next one I think I'll try a different approach, like using a razor to cut a slit and pushing my screwdriver through to access the screw underneath. That means having to screw it back blindly but it will probably look better in the end.

I guess that's what I will have to do. I'll probably just rip the feet off and throw them away if I can't get them to stick back on. They are not exactly super grippy at all anyway, although I guess they are better than the pointless plastic feet on PC Engines that are just part of the shell. Speaking of that, I still have to buy the clear PC Engine case. I'll do that tomorrow.

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I guess that's what I will have to do. I'll probably just rip the feet off and throw them away if I can't get them to stick back on. They are not exactly super grippy at all anyway, although I guess they are better than the pointless plastic feet on PC Engines that are just part of the shell. Speaking of that, I still have to buy the clear PC Engine case. I'll do that tomorrow.
I should probably mention that one of the front feet has no screw under it, so no reason to dig that one up. :)
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Hi guys,

 
Released in Japan 30 years ago today 26 April 1990, SNKs NeoGeo has had a big impact on my life. I’ve achieved the dreams of completing a full set, contributed to the official NeoGeo book & visited SNK in Osaka. Thanks to SNK & team that had a dream to develop the #NeoGeo system.
 
 
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Anthony..

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Hi guys,

 
Happy birthday to the SNK Neo Geo AES. Released in Japan on this day in 1990. What a console. These were the first four games available on the machine. Look at the size of the cartridge! Amazing. #snkneogeo #neogeoaes #neogeo #retrogaming
 
 
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Anthony..

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For some reason balena Etcher is taking an hour to download even though it's a 131MB file (I have no idea why since that should only take 2 seconds maximum), so I am still working on getting my new OSSC profile to my SD card for the Neo Geo.

 

Anyway, we have one vote for the NeoSD Pro (thanks, Anthony!). Does anyone else think a different flash cart is a better option?

 

Also, memory card. Should I bother trying to find one of these? There are a few over at Super Potato. I'm going to go there to get that Neo Geo CD controller once stupid Etcher finally finishes downloading. I am not going to buy a memory card now, but I do want to check prices.

Edited by Steven Pendleton
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19 hours ago, CZroe said:


I used mine when diagnosing an AES with a bad voltage regulator. You could hear some strange noises that way a few seconds before a big pop that causes the system to power off. It comes back on 10-25 seconds later when the LM2576 voltage regulator cools off enough. Cooling and thermal paste made it *almost* go away but I could still trigger it by playing for hours or pressing down hard on it.

Another used for the headphone jack is as a stereo output since the AV Multi-out is mono-only. I use my Sega CD loop-back cable to connect stereo to my HD Retrovision stereo input and it works like a charm. :)

Hmmm. That's interesting to know Emmett.  I never head that way before on diagnosing a unit. Nice bro. I learned something new today. 8^)

 

Anthony..

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