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New Gamecube HDMI adapter


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I don't think it's going to fail this go around. I read that mail and it appears they're ponying up for a 3D printed tightly fitting plug that separates the pins and removes all issue of wobble so you don't cross the wires and blow out the system. I mean that idea of a jack, wire, components, wire, and other jack is nice and all that, but it wouldn't resolve the wobbly plug issue of the 2 failed tries so far. If what they did for #3 is at tight as advertised it'll be fine.

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here is another thought though I know it would add to the cost and bulk. Is there a way to get the power to the converter externally so that they can disable that pin on the adapter and not risk shorting the 'Cube? Again I know additional expense and more bulk, but maybe a small USB like power cable to power the adapter separately? I'm just tossing out ideas as I don't know the specifics for this, but if voltage on the pins and them getting shorted is the issue, then a way to prevent that is needed. And if the voltage is only needed to power the adapter, then using an external power source and removing that pin off the connector would seem like the quickest solution?

 

Using an external power source for a converter isn't anything new. Hell pretty much all the converters I use require their own power source as is.

5v DC is provided at the connector. My gaming center is short on outlets as is with two daisy chained power strips, so adding a wall wart in lieu of fixing connector issues isn't really a great solution, and you'd still be left with an unreliable connector.

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5v DC is provided at the connector. My gaming center is short on outlets as is with two daisy chained power strips, so adding a wall wart in lieu of fixing connector issues isn't really a great solution, and you'd still be left with an unreliable connector.

I understand that...but if that +5 getting shorted across other pins when the connector is moved, then the simplest and easiest solution right off hand is to take that +5 pin off the connector and get your +5 supplied by another source. As for an extra wall wart..etc. That honestly doesn't bother me in the least. Behind my game console center I have at least 6 power strips plugged off a total of one outlet. They don't power on until the AV receiver is powered on first. This keeps the electric cost low throughout and everything is plugged in and ready.

 

And...if it does only require +5 then why not have it power up the same way you can power the NES and SNES classics...off a USB port from your TV directly?

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I understand that...but if that +5 getting shorted across other pins when the connector is moved, then the simplest and easiest solution right off hand is to take that +5 pin off the connector and get your +5 supplied by another source. As for an extra wall wart..etc. That honestly doesn't bother me in the least. Behind my game console center I have at least 6 power strips plugged off a total of one outlet. They don't power on until the AV receiver is powered on first. This keeps the electric cost low throughout and everything is plugged in and ready.

 

And...if it does only require +5 then why not have it power up the same way you can power the NES and SNES classics...off a USB port from your TV directly?

 

It outputs 12v, 3.3v and 1.8v? for a cable detect.

http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendodigitalav

 

Also, most tvs don't have usb ports rated for large power consumption (meeting charging specifications for like 1+ amp), most are just designed to read a single usb drive.

I have had problems running some of those led back lights on the tv usb, Ended up trimming off two at time until the tv stopped giving usb power warnings.

But, Generally speaking, You should be able to power one device at <1amp on most tvs usb ports.

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I understand that...but if that +5 getting shorted across other pins when the connector is moved, then the simplest and easiest solution right off hand is to take that +5 pin off the connector and get your +5 supplied by another source.

Nonono. You've still got a crappy connector that will cause all sorts of problems if not short out the console. The solution is to redesign the connector so that it fits securely.

 

It outputs 12v, 3.3v and 1.8v? for a cable detect.

http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendodigitalav

Sorry. I assumed 5V because that's what the AV multi-out had.
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Nonono. You've still got a crappy connector that will cause all sorts of problems if not short out the console. The solution is to redesign the connector so that it fits securely.

 

Which is what he did it appears finally. All new 3D printed plug that is supposedly very snug in the slot so there's no chance of it pivoting around in case a big girl thunders by kicking it off a tabletop onto a hard floor. :)

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Wow that pure minute of abuse in that second clip with all the bleeping, pretty much covers any foolish people using the system as a tripwire to blow it out. Same as the old MJR video, drop from a counter onto a thin carpet pad on a hard floor -- yet it survives that and being pulled out while on and off and on again. I'm sold on keeping my order in the queue.

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And put the connector at the end of a cable, vs having the torque of a circuits box hanging off the back of the console

Does it really matter whether the cable sticks into the box straight or at a right angle? I think not. This is a homebrew effort, not a professionally manufactured product with a molded rubber casing over the IC.

 

Wow that pure minute of abuse in that second clip with all the bleeping, pretty much covers any foolish people using the system as a tripwire to blow it out. Same as the old MJR video, drop from a counter onto a thin carpet pad on a hard floor -- yet it survives that and being pulled out while on and off and on again. I'm sold on keeping my order in the queue.

During the past some decade and a half ago, I had anger issues. I once kicked my game cube hard (it was sitting on the floor and crashed hard into the side of the TV stand, with enough velocity that it ricocheted off and landed 3-4 feet away on the carpet) while running, and no damage to either the console or the Mario Sunshine disc. These things are quite durable.

 

I've also chucked Wiimotes and NES controllers at a wall without incident. Nintendo hardware has always been quite durable.

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Oh I've been in that boat and I can still get pushed a bit far but at the same price my funds tempers it a lot as I wouldn't feel too good tossing a $80 controller or a $300 handheld. I've taken out my fair share of N64 and SNES controllers, a PS3 one too before. The SNES ones are hard to take out, NES you just can't, but N64 are flimsy.

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Oh I've been in that boat and I can still get pushed a bit far but at the same price my funds tempers it a lot as I wouldn't feel too good tossing a $80 controller or a $300 handheld. I've taken out my fair share of N64 and SNES controllers, a PS3 one too before. The SNES ones are hard to take out, NES you just can't, but N64 are flimsy.

I took a PS3 controller "out of commission" once then used superglue to repair the shell and the R trigger and it still worked fine after that. IIRC, I grabbed the controller by the left handle and rage slammed the right handle into a table top. One of the screws was stripped and the R-trigger developed a crack but everything still worked. The R trigger makes a scraping feel now since the glued seam scrapes against the upper roof of the controller shell. This doesn't affect performance during gameplay but you can feel it scrape slightly when releasing the analog trigger.

 

I've greatly toned down my style by putting games down before they get frustrating. Still I did an idiotic move on my Wii-U gamepad one night and blunt force stabbed the screen with the stylus. No damage whatsoever to the touch screen or the LCD but the stylus tip literally broke off on impact. Suffice to say that new and old Nintendo products are made quite well. The one exception is the thumbstick on stock N64 controllers, but the new cloned replicas feel just as good, also you can buy aftermarket thumbstick replacements.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Huh guess i'm not in order yet on when the mailings go out or I'd pay now. I've been stocking a few GC games up over the last few months since I heard of it to enjoy with the cable.

Hmm....I got the email around 9:45 central time tonight. Maybe you wanted a different color?

 

What games did you pick up? I'm looking forward to playing Fzero and Rogue Squadron for starters. I still need to pick up Metal Gear Solid.

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Hmm....I got the email around 9:45 central time tonight. Maybe you wanted a different color?

 

What games did you pick up? I'm looking forward to playing Fzero and Rogue Squadron for starters. I still need to pick up Metal Gear Solid.

I don't really remember, probably though not the white one as I tend to avoid that.

 

I recall this was announced last spring and I had been holding around to a top 20 pile of games for a long while. I'm back up to 28 currently as I just found Sonic Mega Collection today for $4. I also added these locally since - Skies of Arcadia Legends, the Medal of Honor (trilogy), Metroid Prime, Pikmin 2, and Wave Race. I've owned these in the past, but having got rid of Sega stuff entirely earlier this year Skies was a lucky local $40 pick up to swap out for the DC release. :)

This is my small list of GC goodies - http://tanooki.byethost16.com/gamecube.html

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Finally, I've got the Game Cube HDMI adapter on preorder. :grin: :thumbsup:

 

Now with Switch, Wii-U (Wii via HDMI), AVS, Analogue Super NT preordered, and Game Cube HDMI adapter preordered, literally all I have left on my to do list is to get my N64 modded; then I'll have every Nintendo home console ever made in HD bliss (and every Game Boy game ever made via Super GB and GB Player)! :grin: :thumbsup:

 

Still not ditching CRTs though, too much of a Zapper fan (and Sega Phasor , Atari XE gun, and Super Scope / Yoshi's Safari) to give tube TVs up! As well as the only true way to appreciate Atari consoles (until someone releases an FPGA 2600 that is!) :grin: :thumbsup:

 

Edit: Well this just sucks. I followed the purchase link to the order page, which I received through an anonymous tipster. Now my order is on hold until something is worked out, because my email apparently did not match the waiting list which I though I had signed up for... :roll:

Edited by Kosmic Stardust
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Okay he sent me another email explaining everything. Me as well as others (Tanooki, et al) were presumably further down on the wait list. Just be patient and know you aren't forgotten. I think he's too busy to register on random message boards and clarify everything, though a simple email to all those who remained on the wait list could have avoided the issue. If anyone reading this thread gets another email link to buy the item, PLEASE DO NOT SHARE IT WITH ANYONE ELSE. He couldn't stress this enough.

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