Atari 5200 Playstation 2 Adapter

[tripletopper]

Okay I assumed the converter was a "naked" version of all of what you need to get tit working, exactly like in the picture.

 

So, now you're telling me that the PCB is just the circuit board and appropriate solderable holes for future. That's okay, I can order the circuit board, send it to m guy who does soldering.

 

I saw the website smbaker.com within one of the pictures. I had a hard time finding it using a ".com" find text search.

 

So that website will tell me or (more likely) the person I hire for other equipment needed and what to do with them.

 

At first I thought someone thought I wanted a complete Joystick built. Then I assumed I wanted just the adapter. Now I know that this is only a small part and further assembly is required. Got it now. Let me forward those directions to someone who might be hired to build it.

 

(5 minutes pass)

 

I doubt someone who just builds and physically wire fight sticks using existing fight stick equipment would be likely to figure this out.

 

I saw some people asking to hire someone to build the device.

 

I'd like to throw my hat in the ring for one of the PCB's plus one assembly and other parts from a different person. But I only want the PCB part if I can hire someone to build it. An unassembled part s worhtless to me.

 

So How much for the PCB alone, SMBaker?

 

Anyone offering services for building?

[smbaker]

So How much for the PCB alone, SMBaker?

 

 

Bare pcboards are $10 each plus shipping. I would suggest lining up someone to build it before you order one. In addition to the circuit board, you (or your builder) would also have to buy all the components (ICs, resistors, sockets, etc).

 

Scott

[rayik]

Tripletopper - I do not think you will find anyone to build them. if you did the price will most likely be high.

 

My costs to build one adapter:

 

Bare pcboard - $10

Parts from DigiKey - $45

Two 5200 cables from Console5 - $18

One PS1 cable from Console5 - $9

 

Total - $82 for parts + cost to build + cost to ship

 

That's not including buying a case and figuring out how to put it in the case.

 

In anticipation of two potential questions:

 

1) I am not for hire to build one

2) I will not sell the ones I've built

[leech]

Hmm, lotharek maybe? Though I think he probably has tons of projects he is working on. I don't have my 5200 yet, but like most people, I don't have the time / skills to build one of these myself.

[Shawn]

 

6. if someone wanted to do anything in #4 they would have offered to do it by now. they haven't offered. I don't think they are going to change their mind.

 

And even if they did? I highly doubt they would do so for such a harsh detractor.

[rayik]

Got the PS2 port adapter board in. Connected one directly to Scott's pcb. Connected the other to dupont connector.

 

I'm going to mount them on laser cut acrylic with standoffs. I'll post pics when that is eventually done.

 

Looking forward to getting 5200 set up and trying them out

[rayik]

Got a chance to try them out and they work !! it was fun playing Robotron with a PS2 dualstick.

 

Couple of observations:

 

1) PS2 adapter takes a while to have working thumbsticks.

2) PS2 adapter stops working properly if cable to 5200 is disconnected. Cord to 5200 is easily dislodged from PS2 adapter. Will make connector as Scott did

 

3) Biggest - some diagonal directions seem to be hard to do. It varies which direction. Using Pete's test cart, it appears the thumbstick at "rest" is not centered. Moving the thumbstick will result in a different "rest" setting but still not centered. I do not know how to change the programming to change "rest"' resistence value. Good example is Berzerk. For some diagonals have to push in full direction (and seemingly hold it there).

 

Attached photos show:

 

PS2 adapter connected and working !!!

Pete's test cart screens with PS2 adapter showing: non-centered dots and their numerical values

Homemade digitial stick adapter I made about 20 years ago. (Pots on top for adjusting H and V, button for Start, extra connector for connecting 5200 stick for keypad / pause / reset)

Pete's test cart screens showing centered dots and their numerical values .

 

This is a great adapter Scott has made. Not all games rely on diagonals so it's not an issue in all games. It's a blast playing Robotron with the PS2 pad. It's is really great for most games. I don't know if at rest values needs to be tweaked or if there is just variances with different PS2 pad.

 

Thank you Scott.

[smbaker]

Great to hear you have it working, Rayik. It should be possible to adjust the code to tune the joysticks. Right now they're tuned to my 5200 and my PS2 sticks.

 

There are some variances with the PS2 thumbsticks. I've noticed in one of my controllers, the right and left tumbsticks don't center up to the same value. Not as bad as what you're experiencing, and not leading to playability issues as far as I'm aware, but far less than perfect.

 

I will try berzerk when I get a chance.

 

Scott

[john_q_atari]

For my ps2 controller, the value that "center" returns to after you release the thumbstick from pointing in a direction varies a bit. It doesn't really return to the exact same value each time and that value it returns to moves around a little. That said I haven't really used my adapters on anything other than robotron yet. I love using my adapter on robotron.

[rayik]

For my ps2 controller, the value that "center" returns to after you release the thumbstick from pointing in a direction varies a bit. It doesn't really return to the exact same value each time and that value it returns to moves around a little. That said I haven't really used my adapters on anything other than robotron yet. I love using my adapter on robotron.

Same here. "Center" value varies a bit each time you release the thumbstick.

 

As is, its really great on Robotron. Very much enjoying that game with the PS2 controller.

[smbaker]

One of the things I was thinking about doing was to define a dead zone around the center of the stick, so that if the stick is moved around inside that dead zone, it doesn't change the pot value sent to the 5200. As soon as you start to move out of the dead zone, then it would start changing the pot value like normal. I think this can entirely be done in software. My concern is that the dead zone might not be alike for all PS2 controllers, or even alike for the two thumbsticks on a single controller.

 

Scott

[rayik]

Mounted the boards on laser cut acrylic with rubber feet on the bottom. I really like how they came out

 

@smbaker, john_q_atari and DrVenkman - I have extra cut acrylics. PM me if you want me to send you 1 or 2 at no cost to you (I'll pay postage)

 

 

[boggis the cat]

My concern is that the dead zone might not be alike for all PS2 controllers, or even alike for the two thumbsticks on a single controller.

I’m not sure if your design can do this, however you may be able to add code for calibration.

 

Hold down a combination of buttons that sets the micro to calibration mode, then move the joysticks to their maximum travel in each axis. Hold down the button combination again to exit, and/or exit based on a time-out. A sanity check on the read joystick values before using them would be a good idea.

 

It should only be required once if you use the same controller.

[Trailmyx]

Howdy!  I'd be interested in ordering a couple of these boards if you have any laying around or you are contemplating doing another run.  Sign me up for 2 whenever you get a chance!  Thanks a bunch in advance!  This was a great idea.

[Danjovic]

Hi @smbaker, I watched the video! Very cool project, thanks for sharing.

If at least Pokey checked the /KR1 input line one video line after it changed state of internal counter I am sure that emulating the keyboard would be less tricky ;).

By the way, did you manage already to get it working? Just in case you don't then I think that a pair of analog switches should do the trick:

 

 

The desired key be "pressed" by settng the signals KR0/KR1/KC0/KC1 and ENABLE according to the table:

 

The Yn and Xn row and column matches the order of the analog muxes internal to the 5200

 

 

 

 

[Danjovic]

Just checking the code for "deluxe" version, diagonal controls coming from Atari 2600 port input can be restricted to circle equivalent with the following code:

        // Check the 2600 Joystick port
        uint8_t statePort2600 = 0;
		if (NORTH_PRESSED) statePort2600 |= (1<<0); // UP
		if (SOUTH_PRESSED) statePort2600 |= (1<<1); // DOWN
		if ( WEST_PRESSED) statePort2600 |= (1<<2); // LEFT
		if ( EAST_PRESSED) statePort2600 |= (1<<3); // RIGHT
		
		switch (statePort2600) {
		   // Cardinals 
		   case (1<<0): // NORTH
				digital_vpot0 = 1;
				digital_vpot1 = 1;
                       break;
		   case (1<<1): // SOUTH
				digital_vpot0 = 254;
				digital_vpot1 = 254;
                       break;
		   case (1<<2): // EAST
				digital_hpot0 = 1;
				digital_hpot1 = 1;
                       break;
		   case (1<<3): // WEST
				digital_hpot0 = 254;
				digital_hpot1 = 254;
                break;		
				
           // Diagonals 
 		   case (1<<0)|(1<<2): // NORTHWEST
				digital_vpot0 = 38;
				digital_vpot1 = 38;
				digital_hpot0 = 217;
				digital_hpot1 = 217;
                       break;
		   case (1<<0)|(1<<3): // NORTHEAST
				digital_vpot0 = 38;
				digital_vpot1 = 38;
				digital_hpot0 = 38;
				digital_hpot1 = 38;				
                       break;
		   case (1<<1)|(1<<2): // SOUTHWEST
				digital_hpot0 = 217;
				digital_hpot1 = 217;
				digital_hpot0 = 217;
				digital_hpot1 = 217;				
                break;
		   case (1<<1)|(1<<3): // SOUTHEAST
				digital_hpot0 = 217;
				digital_hpot1 = 217;		      
				digital_hpot0 = 38;
				digital_hpot1 = 38;
                break;
		   default:
				digital_hpot0 = 127;
				digital_hpot1 = 127;		      
				digital_hpot0 = 127;
				digital_hpot1 = 127;		   
		}
		// if in ambidextrous mode, default it to no-stick-pressed.
		if (statePort2600!=0) ambistick = AMBI_NONE;
		
/*		
		if (NORTH_PRESSED) {
            ambistick = AMBI_NONE; // if in ambidextrous mode, default it to no-stick-pressed.
            digital_vpot0 = 1;
            digital_vpot1 = 1;
        } else if (SOUTH_PRESSED) {
            ambistick = AMBI_NONE;
            digital_vpot0 = 254;
            digital_vpot1 = 254;
        }
        if (WEST_PRESSED) {
            ambistick = AMBI_NONE;
            digital_hpot0 = 1;
            digital_hpot1 = 1;
        } else if (EAST_PRESSED) {
            ambistick = AMBI_NONE;
            digital_hpot0 = 254;
            digital_hpot1 = 254;
        }
		
*/

 

 

[David Alexander]

I just wanted to say, thank you @smbaker this is one of your best Atari 5200 Adapters.

The home made 5200 controller is great and has a lot of interest.

But what I really like about this adapter is the twin analog action for Robotron and Space Dungeon.

And the fact that your using a robust Sony PS2 controller that can take a lot of wear.

I just wish someone could design a 3D printed case with buttons as they did for your home made 5200 controller

[David Alexander]

@smbaker I just wanted to say thank you again for all of the 5200 adapters you have made. To date my favourite is this one. Can people order more of these boards from you? @DrVenkman @MakerMatrix And would Dr Venkman consider selling making these built for sale and would MakerMatrix design and sell a 3D printed case for it. I think in many ways this was smbakers finest product as not only did you have all the functions of his homemade controller but you can play games like Robotron and Space Dungeon with dual analog using the Sony PS2 Controller. Am I the only one interested in this? I also wanted again to thank that anonymous Atari Age member who built mine for me

Edited January 11, 2020 by David Alexander

[+DrVenkman]

Sorry, my friend - speaking for myself and not @MakerMatrix, I've never built one of those adapters and I really have no interest in it. I've already built myself a pair of Scott's Masterplay boards and like them just fine with a cheap and readily available Genesis 3-button pads. Buttons B and C are the two 5200 fire buttons, and if you use a standard DB9 joystick instead of a Genesis pad, there's a second fire button on the adapter.

[MakerMatrix]

Looks close to the masterplay, which I've been dabbling with, on and off (mostly off since mid-Dec), so after that I could maybe do a short run of cases for this if there was enough interest.  

Not sure about building them though. Building multiple scores of the thumb controllers by hand has taught me that there is a good reason electronics are no longer manufactured that way...it's very time consuming and therefore expensive.  I'd personally be WAY more interested in spending the time to redesign the board so we could have an SMD service populate the ICs, caps, resistors, switches, etc.

[David Alexander]

1 hour ago, MakerMatrix said:

Looks close to the masterplay, which I've been dabbling with, on and off (mostly off since mid-Dec), so after that I could maybe do a short run of cases for this if there was enough interest.  

Not sure about building them though. Building multiple scores of the thumb controllers by hand has taught me that there is a good reason electronics are no longer manufactured that way...it's very time consuming and therefore expensive.  I'd personally be WAY more interested in spending the time to redesign the board so we could have an SMD service populate the ICs, caps, resistors, switches, etc.

Yes that would be great. I need two cases with buttons. I hope this happens

[WicoKid]

Late as usual but I had successfully built one of SBaker's single stick controllers (ATTiny85) and was well motivated to build this converter. I've has it a assembled for several months but cannot get it to work; first I thought it was the programming of the ATTiny861A but now not so sure. I oriented the PS2 connector based on the first picture SBaker  posted of it on this thread, however, when I look at Ravik's posts, it looks like I've got it backwards. My board starts, pauses, resets and * and # all work; the cursor on missile command is at the bottom right of the screen and there is no response at all to moving the sticks on the PS2 controller. The is no LED lighting on the PS2 controller. To anyone who has one of these working: 

1) Is the PS2 connector oriented correctly in this pic

2) Should the LED come on the PS2 controller when pressing the analog button?

3) I am getting no voltage on pin 5 of the PS2 Connector....are there any obvious problems with build as pictured?

Thank you.

Edited October 9, 2022 by WicoKid

[WicoKid]

Responding to my above message just to answer the above questions and maybe help someone "from the future". It works as designed; I'm not sure where I left the rails as far as the voltage regulator, but I had the wrong part installed and  the PS2 connector is backwards in the above post. I replaced the voltage regulator and changed to a dupont connection for the PS2 controller.  Yes the LED on the PS2 controller does light.

 

Other things that maybe be helpful:

 

1) Jumper 1 and 2 as in the above picture are correct (if you make them vertical the keypad works but exactly horizontally reversed (4 is 6, # is *, etc). A press on the PS2 controller stick acts as button A, could not find a way to disable this. 

2) Scott Baker BOM has ATTINY861A. It is out of stock all over. I can verify that, as per "drop in replacement" that the plain ATINY861 works as well (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/microchip-technology/ATTINY861-20PU/1245922).

3) The LED spot on the board just right of the row of resistors only measures 0.4 volts for me and does not power an LED...the controller works fine

4) Here are STL files for a case. It is really more of a sandwich.  The gap the board makes can be seen in the picture, however the buttons all line up pretty well.  I started with files obtained from the below thread from Scott Baker's other controller case designed by Animan99 and AJACox; imported it to TinkerCAD and started drawing, dropping and resizing shapes. It is imperfect (especially inside) but does fit, work  and protects the board.  The  keypad , buttons STL's came from stl  files on the other thread.   Your results maybe better than mine as I struggled with nonsticking prints and stringing until I had something I could at least file and use. Because I had different length buttons, I had to dremmel the keypad /buttons to make them fit. If you use a small profile button (5 mm height) you will PROBABLY be OK.

 

Pardon my epoxy glue strain relief on the cord. I know its amateur work but this adapter along with an s-video mod  transforms the machine as far as Robotron and Space dungeon as well as all of the short throw digital games (PacMac, Ms Pacman, HERO, Defender, etc).  Thank you Scott Baker, Animan99, AJACox for  this.

 

 BottomPS2.stlSortaPS2Case.stl

 

Edited November 9, 2022 by WicoKid

[xefned]

On 11/9/2022 at 9:42 AM, WicoKid said:

Responding to my above message just to answer the above questions and maybe help someone "from the future". It works as designed; I'm not sure where I left the rails as far as the voltage regulator, but I had the wrong part installed and the PS2 connector is backwards in the above post. I replaced the voltage regulator and changed to a dupont connection for the PS2 controller.  Yes the LED on the PS2 controller does light.

 

Hello fellow time traveler. I am from the future, and this was very helpful. Congratulations on your successful build. I'm building mine in the apparent present. 

 

I'm also from the past, here to let future travelers know that the direction of your PS2 connector in the above picture is, in fact, correct—unintuitive as that may seem. (The Dupont header and PS2 header are cleverly routed on the board to be 180˚ from one another.)

Edited January 1, 2023 by xefned
typo