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Cracking open an A8 Demon Attack cart


hoserama99

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I came into possession of a very dirty Demon Attack cart for the A8 series recently. I've made some attempts to clean it but so far haven't revived it.

 

My next step is to open the cart and clean it a bit more directly and check the pins. It's not immediately obvious to me how to open it, aside from a liberal application of force. If anyone has popped one of these open before, I'd be grateful for any tips. Given that the cart isn't working, I'm not averse to just forcing it open no matter the consequence, but I want to save that as a last resort.

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Kens approach with the box cutter / stanley knife is the best, start with a slow but sure straight cut and then increase the cut strength, it helps avoid an initial non straight slice. Obviously as said, clean the cart contacts as best as possible first.

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8 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

deoxit and a light buffing on the exposed card edge fingers is all that should need be done. The cart should not need to be opened... unless it's water damaged and rusty inside.

They look water damaged and have a quite a bit of dirt and mud on them. I've been able to resurrect 7 other carts in the same lot, so I'm hoping if I can get access to the PCB, this one will follow suit.

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Don't know what type of Cart you have, but if I remember I opened one by removing the label on the back and there was a screw under it.

 

Mine also had the ROM's in sockets, so if yours is also like this, there may be corrosion on the IC pins/sockets

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1 hour ago, TGB1718 said:

Don't know what type of Cart you have, but if I remember I opened one by removing the label on the back and there was a screw under it.

I think you may be right. Some extensive googling shows that the cart may in fact have 2 screws under the label. My label is complete but very trashed, so I'm not too concerned about putting two screw-holes in it at this point.

 

Edit: here's the scene of the crime before I went further. A thorough cleaning didn't resurrect it, but the slot contacts are still pretty crusty. I may need something more abrasive than alcohol and q-tips to make progress. Thanks all.

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_2562.jpg

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8 hours ago, Preppie said:

I haven't cleaned a cart this bad myself, but if alcohol isn't enough the 8-bit guy uses bicarb and a touch of water then scrubs with toothbrush.

I saw that video (big fan of 8-Bit Guy!) and will likely give it a try. We don't have any in the house at the moment, so it's on the shopping list for our next trip to the store.

 

I did try deoxit, but it didn't make any visible headway on corrosion on the cart contacts. I've also read that some people use sandpaper with a grit of #2000, so I may try that too. I've heard to *not* use Brasso or similar, so I'm saving that for a last resort.

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I would not use sandpaper or brasso. The gold plating is very thin and either of these will remove the gold, leaving the nickel to tarnish.

 

Are the chips on the game cart in sockets or soldered to the board? If in sockets, I would remove the chips and clean the sockets AND dry with canned air.

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14 minutes ago, Forrest said:

Are the chips on the game cart in sockets or soldered to the board? If in sockets, I would remove the chips and clean the sockets AND dry with canned air.

Soldered. They are now pretty clean. The corrosion is still quite present on the connector, so I'm only going to deal with the chip once the corrosion is gone, assuming it's still non-functional.

 

The point about Brasso is well taken, which is why I mentioned it was my last resort. The cart is non-functional now. Assuming I can't get it functional after trying everything else, I'm not averse to causing more damage. ;)

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6 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

You can always replate the fingers if need be, but once you remove something you can't put it back

I'm wide-open to suggestions to remove just the corrosion -- which is something I don't want to put back! I can post a picture of the cart in its current condition tomorrow.

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for avionics we've used

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html

with great success, safe and does a reasonably nice job.

 

flux and heat can dissipate corrosion, I've used fresh solder and flux to lift corrosion crusties clear of traces

 

Pour a quarter-cup of baking soda into a small bowl and add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water until the mixture forms a thick paste then...

 

Use cotton swabs or Q-Tips and a toothbrush. use isopropyl alcohol, baking soda and water paste to clean corrosion. You can also use vinegar. Gently apply the mixed solution to the affected area and wipe back and forth until the corrosion is gone. You can even apply the solution on the corroded area and let it sit for a period of time before wiping it off.

 

scrubbing bubbles is a cleaner brand for bathrooms that can help as well (believe it or not, it can work on some types of corrosion)

 

You can wash pc board with 3 parts distilled water/1 part ammonia, scrub certain parts with light acetone if you know what your doing and then rinse with high % isopropyl alcohol. This cleans nicely, removing capacitor goo, all kinds of stuff.

 

remember to thoroughly dry stuff with heat and air when done

 

Sometimes I've flushed whole boards with freon just to be sure it is clean and dry

cfc113

 

Some other cleaner used as a round up on a single site https://ecolink.com/fluosolv-product-line-overview/

 

You now have my arsenal in one form or another...

 

oh almost forgot crc qd spray has helped in a pinch as well...

Edited by _The Doctor__
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depends on the vinegars' acid by percentage and how long you wish to use it. generally house cleaning vinegar is too strong... weak table vinegar should only be used in small time frames of less than 10 minutes and anything more than 15 can start to eat stuff.... The chrome plating in the Automotive word is quite thick where as electronics and the related platings are usually quite thin

Edited by _The Doctor__
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