+Nezgar Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 Sounds like you might already have it correct then? Like this: (right is towards the back of the 800XL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) nezgar, the wires go to the pulled ferrite legs chip side not back/modulator side. last I remember... it helps reduce/keep noise from signals reflecting in as well as noise going out. It also prevents the original Atari signals from being transmitted.... Edited August 15, 2019 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 22 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said: nezgar, the wires go to the pulled ferrite legs chip side not back/modulator side. last I remember... it helps reduce/keep noise from signals reflecting in as well as noise going out. It also prevents the original Atari signals from being transmitted.... The ferrite beads help but are entirely non-essential. The photo shows the signals traveling to the DIN jack side of the circuity and - more importantly since this was the first issue of confusion - the stock connections back to the 4050 socket are severed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 either side being pulled severs the connection, soldering to the pulled legs when done as I described follows the every little bit helps credo as stated. There will be no transmission towers and the ferrite does it's job and are put to use helping not hurting. Some displays and locations are more sensitive than others... His display certainly needs improvement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 5 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said: His display certainly needs improvement. As may be. However, I have 2 UAV's currently installed in XL computers and two in Atari game consoles(*), and ZERO of them are going through ferrite beads. Whatever the man has going on with his video, it's not an issue that can be addressed with some tiny RF chokes. (*) In addition to the two in my XEL and XLD machines, but those are a very special case and not generally applicable - no Atari machine ever built has as clean a power supply and ground plane as Michael's designs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 (edited) yes because the approach of utilizing every little thing that helps is such a bad move, I don't think anyone said it would cure all of his ills. I did ask if we could verify his wiring etc. also some folks stack the chip others remove it on this or that device. There has to be a reason and I hope all of his legs are in the socket. Is it possible the thing is defective. double check everything. While something is just fine in one location with one display it can be horrible with another display or location. The idea is to make it bullet proof where ever it travels. With whatever display it encounters. I'd also like to see it with some other cord myself. Edited August 15, 2019 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 1 hour ago, _The Doctor__ said: nezgar, the wires go to the pulled ferrite legs chip side not back/modulator side. last I remember... it helps reduce/keep noise from signals reflecting in as well as noise going out. It also prevents the original Atari signals from being transmitted.... Interesting.. As unnecessary as it may be, I'm curious to see if it improves my 800XL composite at all. The picture above was how I installed it based on posts in the (very long) UAV Rev D thread. Maybe somewhere in that thread this was discussed, but easy to miss... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 In an ideal world having the ferrite beads inline would seem like it would make things better, but I've rarely ever seen that be the case. If you look at my 600XL UAV installation, there are no beads, and also some unshielded connections. I also have a 1200XL with a UAV and some really long unshielded wires and no beads. In both systems I have absolutely superb video, without a trac of banding. And this is when used on several different models of LCDs, which tend to show the banding problem at its worse. BTW, both systems have no metal shielding. I think where the beads and the shielding really make a difference is when you wish to still use the original RF output. In fact metal shielding is an absolute must in that situation. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 19 minutes ago, mytek said: I think where the beads and the shielding really make a difference is when you wish to still use the original RF output. In fact metal shielding is an absolute must in that situation. Ahh right... I still have the RF modulator alive in mine.. That's probably it. I've wondered if the modulator could just be turned on/off with a switch rather than tearing the whole thing out? S-Video is great to a 1702... just a little banding when switching to composite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 well that, and since I have radio equipment, I work hard to keep shielded as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 42 minutes ago, Nezgar said: Ahh right... I still have the RF modulator alive in mine.. That's probably it. I've wondered if the modulator could just be turned on/off with a switch rather than tearing the whole thing out? The RF modulator isn't really a problem by itself because it carries it's own very well enclosed shielded box. The problem is if you want to use its output to feed a TV, then the lack of shielding around the computer circuits lets too much noise escape and mix in with the RF signal coming from the modulator that will be seen on the TV as a moving herring bone pattern overlaying the computer's video. This effect is worse on older TVs that lack a coaxial connection, and instead need to be converted to 300 ohm flat lead. Also as Doc points out, having no shielding will really cause havoc to radio reception, especially if you are trying to pull in a distant station. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colleton Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 On 8/7/2019 at 10:27 PM, ACML said: Have you thought about using HDMI? Buy a $23 S-Video to HDMI upscaler and you get clean sharp Y/C (S-video) in 720p or 1080p. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UNYX9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can get a great Atari S-Video monitor cable for $12 at 8-bit Classics https://www.8bitclassics.com/product/atari-xlxe-5-pin-din-to-s-video-composite-av-cable/ Great idea on the upscaler, thanks! My 4K TV doesn't have an S-Video input, so hopefully this is a good solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) How about small, thin, grounded co-ax cables from the UAV to the ferrite chokes? Edit: Or direct to the pads on the board that go to the DIN jack, tell us which way looks better. Edited August 17, 2019 by Kyle22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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