Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 I am trying to get the RGB mod to work, I got full RGB, but how do I fix the sync? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor the Gaming Guy Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 43 minutes ago, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: I am trying to get the RGB mod to work, I got full RGB, but how do I fix the sync? I see the CV BIOS is kinda messed up, I think I might try to find a video or way to fix this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor the Gaming Guy Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 I found some videos that might help. ArcadeUSA: TriceraAwesome: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 (edited) I don't know this'll work for the Sync fix for the RGB mod. By the way, I have a composite mod like this. Edited June 18, 2020 by Retro_Game_Lover96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 In your other thread, R24 looks like 18 ohms. It should be 15K, according to the diagram and schematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 1 minute ago, ChildOfCv said: In your other thread, R24 looks like 18 ohms. It should be 15K, according to the diagram and schematic. Well, do I have to replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 Just now, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: Well, do I have to replace it? Yeah, if it's the wrong value. Look at it and R11. They should both be 15K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 (edited) Besides, they have to be 15K Ohm resistors to get the sync to work. BTW, I wonder what they look like? They are small that should have the resistor code, 153. Edited June 18, 2020 by Retro_Game_Lover96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 They work just like the colored resistors, but they have numbers printed instead. 180 means 18*10^0, or 18 ohms. The resistors should have these numbers printed on them according to Osh: R1 681 R2, R3, R4 750 R5, R6, R10, R12, R14, R17, R21, R22 152 R7, R15, R20 392 R8, R16, R19 101 R9 302 R11, R24 153 R13 752 R18 123 R23 562 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 I was right, 153 is basically 15K Ohm resistor SMD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: I was right, 153 is basically 15K Ohm resistor SMD. Right. So any that are wrong need to be fixed. Especially if that one really is 18 instead of 15K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Yes, both R11 and R24 are 18 , so I have to replace them with 15K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) Ugh, it doesn’t work. -_- I tried to replace the R11 and R24 with the new 15k ohm resistors, so their code is 18C. 18C = 15k Ohms BTW, I don't know the 153 and 18C are the same thing for 15K Ohms or not. Edited June 23, 2020 by Retro_Game_Lover96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 WTF. So there's a numbering standard called EIA-96 that has the "benefit" of requiring you to look up the conversion value. <slow clap> Okay, what's the voltage at the S output with everything plugged in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) Look at this picture. The citrus3000psi RGB board’s sync doesn’t have a pot. Edited June 23, 2020 by Retro_Game_Lover96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 3 hours ago, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: Look at this picture. The citrus3000psi RGB board’s sync doesn’t have a pot. That wasn't my question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) I wasn’t talking about your question, I was talking about something that has an extra potentiometer that was pictured. Edited June 23, 2020 by Retro_Game_Lover96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Here are the voltages from the sync output with the different options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 That looks plausible. It would be nice if you could get peak voltage rather than DC average. But anyway, what does your SCART plug into? Does it go straight to the TV or does it go to a converter box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 The Scart plugs into the PVM monitor with the Scart to BNC connector cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Does that SCART adapter board have a sync processor on it? Or is it just to route the connections? Also, does the SCART cable have resistors inside of the plug? If you measure the resistance from the S BNC plug to pin 20, is it 0 or maybe 75? Finally, if you were to connect a wire across R1 on the PSI board, would that give you sync? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 The cable of for the PVM monitor has a direct connection, so it works fine with other systems that have RGB mods like the NES. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: The cable of for the PVM monitor has a direct connection, so it works fine with other systems that have RGB mods like the NES. So, what's the resistance reading? And does bypassing R1 on the PSI board with a jumper wire help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_Game_Lover96 Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 2 hours ago, ChildOfCv said: So, what's the resistance reading? And does bypassing R1 on the PSI board with a jumper wire help? I don't know the bypass R1 on the RGB board with a wire could help or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Retro_Game_Lover96 said: I don't know the bypass R1 on the RGB board with a wire could help or not. There's only one way to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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