Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 I know it seems like a dumb self explanitory question, but this power supply is going in my STe and I just want it right. You would think Centurion would provide at least one pic on their site showing installation, but it's so simple they figured... I used the original SP34 base.. Take a look at the pic and make sure I did all the connections for it correctly. The top left corner mount had metal around it so I figured that was the ground for the switch. A little embarrasing for me to ask? Sure. But it never hurts to get a second opinion. Thanks for any assistance.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 I would have connected the black wire from the switch into the screw terminal next to the white wire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 I thought that too, at first, but there is no screw to tighten it down. The other terminal ( with screw ) is marked 230. I'm USA 110v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul Westphal said: I know it seems like a dumb self explanitory question, but this power supply is going in my STe and I just want it right. You would think Centurion would provide at least one pic on their site showing installation, but it's so simple they figured... I used the original SP34 base.. Take a look at the pic and make sure I did all the connections for it correctly. The top left corner mount had metal around it so I figured that was the ground for the switch. A little embarrasing for me to ask? Sure. But it never hurts to get a second opinion. Thanks for any assistance.. Top RIGHT mount had the metal.. it would not let me edit the main post.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuf Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 I've got one of these in the drawer I've been meaning to install. I'll give it a try over the next couple of days and compare notes with you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 42 minutes ago, Paul Westphal said: I thought that too, at first, but there is no screw to tighten it down. The other terminal ( with screw ) is marked 230. I'm USA 110v. That is the terminal I ment. The text "110/230V" probably mean both voltage in the same terminal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 (edited) OK- that was my original thought to take the ground wire from the switch and put it in the other terminal with the screw. But that still does not explain the metal around the top right mounting hole. Edited December 29, 2021 by Paul Westphal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 6 minutes ago, tuf said: I've got one of these in the drawer I've been meaning to install. I'll give it a try over the next couple of days and compare notes with you. Great! I was hoping someone else could glean something from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 (edited) Leave the ground wire (yellow/green) on the metal. Leave white wire as you have it and then move the black wire from the switch (now connected to the ground with a screw through the PSU corner) to the screw terminal (the wire is to short for that at the moment). The switch should be the part that disconnect the live from the PSU. Black wire in this case. White would be neutral in that case. Edited December 29, 2021 by snarkdluG 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 (edited) Excellent! They say always go with your first thought. I should trust myself more but that metal mounting hole threw me a curve. It's going in beloved 1040STe. There can be no mistakes allowed. Edited December 29, 2021 by Paul Westphal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 I sent centurion the same pick. He snapped at me, told me to stop what I was doing and offered no advice. This is why I came to the forums. All he had to do was tell me to swap wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 This should do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 Yes, that looks right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 Sorry to be so buggy.. the schematic shows the white wire on the left and the black on the right. Does it matter ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 (edited) It shouldn't matter since it is AC. You can switch it if you want to. Edited December 30, 2021 by snarkdluG 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 (edited) wow, just wow... @Paul Westphal it does matter... that is why line is hot and neutral is not... ground is earth ground... and a couple of turns around the ring would help keep noise out as well... please don't let anyone tell you it doesn't matter... it can matter if anything goes wrong later... safety first. I'd put the hot to the switch as well so you don't end up completing the path on accident if hot line is still feeding and you happen to provide a path to ground using a tool or your body... hot(line) from jack goes to switch, switch goes to line(hot) in, that hot line in goes to fuse on the board .... neutral goes to neutral and earth ground goes to ground tab.... it matters! insulate as possible with heat shrink or insulated terminals... any electrician or electronics technician can advise you the same as I have... you can grab a book or two or even ask in passing, you will be informed accordingly p.s. consider heat shrink tubing or covered (insulated) terminals to the switch as well. furthermore, you want the fuse to disconnect the hot if it blows.... the so there is no chance for any other path to complete that circuit be it neutral or ground.... Edited December 30, 2021 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 (edited) When in doubt, meter it out! plenty of NEMA info on the web as well... so a recap...hot(line) from jack goes to switch, switch goes to line(hot) in, that hot line in goes to fuse on the board .... neutral goes to neutral and earth ground goes to ground.... it matters! insulate as possible with heat shrink or insulated terminals... Edited December 30, 2021 by _The Doctor__ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 (edited) MUCH THANKS! I switched it to what the schematic said. The STe is running well and as cool as a cucumber. Edited December 30, 2021 by Paul Westphal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarkdluG Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 5 hours ago, Paul Westphal said: MUCH THANKS! I switched it to what the schematic said. The STe is running well and as cool as a cucumber. Yes. Now it's wired correctly. Of course it matters how you wire it up as the The Doctor mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGB1718 Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Well done for not switching on before coming here, it would have ended in tears, glad it's working well, my only thought is why the manufacturer chose those colours for the wires ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 Yes, and I’m sure power supplies are different. I asked myself why would he design it so the wires “cross “ and it’s because of that reason. Lessons learned on my part. He had a schematic for it I didn’t see - it was in the download section of the website. I also understand why he got pissed at me ?. Hopefully my antics in this thread will help someone else down the road . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuf Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 40 minutes ago, Paul Westphal said: Hopefully my antics in this thread will help someone else down the road . They absolutely will ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightbit Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Paul, Sorry I didn't see this thread until you were done. I have installed a few of these Great power supplies...the best in my opinion (both his internal and external supplies are excellent!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted January 1, 2022 Author Share Posted January 1, 2022 It's all good. Just another project where I overcomplicated it with thought, and didn't see the schematic pic on his website. The good thing is that this thread exists for others to reference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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