+mytek Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 7 hours ago, chrisrcromwell said: The downside I’m having now is, the UGV is too tall, (seated in a socket) and my case no longer fits together properly; gap opening along the bottom. Just my 2 cents... I have one of these installed in a 65XE which I removed the original soldered-in GTIA, replaced with a machine pin socket and then plugged the UGV into that. Then I reinstalled the RF shield and had absolutely no clearance problems. So I too am curious as to what Atari computer you are installing this in. BTW, just be sure you aren't installing the UGV with yet another in-between socket. Normally on the XE systems neither the Antic or the GTIA are in sockets, so there are no clearance issues with the Antic after installing the UGV into a socketed GTIA chip just below it as can be seen in this photo. However if the Antic chip is also in a socket, then there would be problems with it interfering with the UGV's right angle pin header associated with the video outputs. If you put yet another in-between socket underneath the UGV to raise it higher than there will be clearance issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 I am thinking it's probably a 600XL. Sometimes all that is needed aside making no extra sockets are in there, is simply to source a different XL keybord. The ones with no mtal backing plate give more room. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 (edited) @mytek @Beeblebrox I did figure it out late last night. Yes your correct, there was a 2nd machine socket on the bottom of the UGV adapter I wasn’t aware of initially. I removed it, and now the case is fitting much better, with the exception of the now slightly too tall CPU ZIF Socket I installed the other day; can’t always have everything. Im using the 800XL Rev A pre-socketed board made in late 1983. Sorry for the confusion earlier. Im also having an issue with the Stereo Pokey mod board. The audio sounds very distorted and rough, is that normal? Perhaps I have a bad board? Edited August 31 by chrisrcromwell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Can I remove the metal backing plate on my 800XL keyboard, without issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 In the pic you see my Sally CPU Adapter I was testing. It doesn’t quite work correctly, a bad chip or bad solder joint. I have since put in the original CPU back in. I was thinking about building some of these adapters to sell for $60 if anyone is interested? The WD 6502 equivalent fixes some bugs and introduces new features from the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 (edited) 5 hours ago, chrisrcromwell said: Can I remove the metal backing plate on my 800XL keyboard, without issues? No. If there is a plate it is required for the mylar. There are several different xl keyboard variants. Mylar membrane based, and mechanical keyswitch based You can try swapping in an awc or alps made mechanical switch keyboard which won't have a plate. Just put electrical tape over the soldier points to avoid any shorting.. 600xl and 800xl keyboards are interchangeable. See here: Edited August 31 by Beeblebrox 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overange Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 5 hours ago, chrisrcromwell said: Im also having an issue with the Stereo Pokey mod board. The audio sounds very distorted and rough, is that normal? Perhaps I have a bad board? Looking at your images it looks like you have @mytek TK-II-Stereo Board, have you tried fitting the 390 Ohm resistors to the board, as mentioned on his website, that would be a good start? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 29 minutes ago, Overange said: Looking at your images it looks like you have @mytek TK-II-Stereo Board, have you tried fitting the 390 Ohm resistors to the board, as mentioned on his website, that would be a good start? And here's the section that Overange is talking about - click on the image to enlarge it enough to make out the details. https://ataribits.weebly.com/tk-ii-stereo.html @chrisrcromwell I'm glad that it was an easy fix to solve your UGV clearance issue. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 (edited) My stereo board was already pre assembled when I bought it. I was hoping the correct resistor was already placed in it. I can’t tell if it has or not. 🤔 Yes, I can see the images. I didn’t notice any resistors soldered to the underside when I last looked. So perhaps that’s it. I can see if I can track down those two small resistors on Mouser. I don’t do any SMS, I don’t have the experience or knowledge. Through hole I can do, maybe I can solder regular resistors on there. If I can’t find 390K, will 400K work? 🤔 Edited August 31 by chrisrcromwell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 *390-400 Ohms I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 (edited) @chrisrcromwell btw these connectors don't need to be so chunky: Use much thinner dupont connectors which will lower the profile: Edited September 1 by Beeblebrox 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 (edited) 10 hours ago, Beeblebrox said: @chrisrcromwell btw these connectors don't need to be so chunky: Use much thinner dupont connectors which will lower the profile: Can you buy some and send it my way? 🤔 Otherwise, that’s all I have on me to use. 🤷♂️ I had to sacrifice a few new PC case fans for those connectors to make it work. The only fitting problem I have now isn’t with the UVG, it’s the too tall CPU ZIF socket. I’ve been looking for other Atari keyboards on EBay, that don’t have the thick metal backing; I haven’t found one yet. That would help out a lot with clearance issues, like you mentioned. 🙂👍 I have 390 ohm and 400 ohm resistors on the way from Mouser. Edited September 1 by chrisrcromwell 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 17 minutes ago, chrisrcromwell said: Can you buy some and send it my way? 🤔 Otherwise, that’s all I have on me to use. 🤷♂️ I had to sacrifice a few new PC case fans for those connectors to make it work. The only fitting problem I have now isn’t with the UVG, it’s the too tall CPU ZIF socket. I’ve been looking for other Atari keyboards on EBay, that don’t have the thick metal backing; I haven’t found one yet. That would help out a lot with clearance issues, like you mentioned. 🙂👍 I have 390 ohm and 400 ohm resistors on the way from Mouser. See here, it's always worth having a kit like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09NBT7D9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The trouble with looking on Ebay for the XL keyboards is that you usually have to buy a whole 800xl/600XL, and then you can't always trust you'll be getting a working keyboard. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 I have two 390 Ohm resistors soldered to the TK-2 Stereo board and it does sound remarkably better! No blasting rough distortion! Nice! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 5 hours ago, chrisrcromwell said: I have two 390 Ohm resistors soldered to the TK-2 Stereo board and it does sound remarkably better! No blasting rough distortion! Nice! I just wish that the people selling these online would add the 390 ohm resistors from the get go and not make the buyers go through hoops after the sale. I've had the 390 ohm info on my website for probably 2+ years now. If I knew the sellers directly I would email them to alert them to this issue. Perhaps you have the means to contact them, and let them know. Anyway glad that fixed the problem you were seeing. EDIT: I'm not about to redesign the TK-Stereo board, since I doubt the sellers would order new PCBs anyway, or even know about it. And I suspect that it's a very slim market for dual stereo pokey boards, especially considering that the PokeyMax does this and so much more, and Pokeys have gotten to be very rare and expensive.. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olix Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 On 4/14/2024 at 5:47 PM, mytek said: @Overange is your SM Edition ready for public release? I so, would you mind if I add it's gerbers and BOM to my UGV page? Of course I'd be sure to give you full credit In the meantime, is the Gerber file for the scaled-down version of the UGV public? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overange Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 (edited) 10 hours ago, olix said: In the meantime, is the Gerber file for the scaled-down version of the UGV public? To be honest, I had forgotten to upload this, any ways here is the gerbers BOM and position silks for top and bottom. There is now a good quantity of this SM version out there, with no reported issues with this version. Big thanks to @mytek for allowing the redesign of this great product. BOM_UGV_V1.3_SM_EDITION.xlsx UGV_V1.3_SM_EDITION_V1.3.b.zip UGV_V1.3_SM_EDITION_Top.pdf UGV_V1.3_SM_EDITION_Bottom.pdf Edited September 5 by Overange 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisrcromwell Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 On 9/5/2024 at 1:06 AM, mytek said: I just wish that the people selling these online would add the 390 ohm resistors from the get go and not make the buyers go through hoops after the sale. I've had the 390 ohm info on my website for probably 2+ years now. If I knew the sellers directly I would email them to alert them to this issue. Perhaps you have the means to contact them, and let them know. Anyway glad that fixed the problem you were seeing. EDIT: I'm not about to redesign the TK-Stereo board, since I doubt the sellers would order new PCBs anyway, or even know about it. And I suspect that it's a very slim market for dual stereo pokey boards, especially considering that the PokeyMax does this and so much more, and Pokeys have gotten to be very rare and expensive.. I got mine from The Brewing Academy website. Yes, I was surprised too! I figured this harmless update would be done long by now. It’s not all that big of a deal for me, as I can solder reasonably well, and the distortion is mostly gone; I can pick up little hints of distortion, but probably the game is designed like that. I don’t suppose 400ohm resistors would make any difference from 390ohm’s. The downside is someone who can’t solder, and they will be disappointed with the results. I ordered another TK II Stereo board, before posting on here; thinking I had a bad one. It will be here in a few days. I can mod it with the 400ohm resistors I have, and maybe sell it on EBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 8 hours ago, chrisrcromwell said: I don’t suppose 400ohm resistors would make any difference from 390ohm’s. Close enough 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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