doubledown's fancy new, Intellivision - Super Pro Arcade Controller

[doubledown]

27 minutes ago, mr_me said:

I would just put a switch on the third button for AR, K3, KE, K9, K0.

 

Would having twelve mini arcade buttons instead of the keypad increase cost much?

Only making 1 button (say the far right one) be 8 way selectable, would obviously be less expensive, both with regard to hardware and labor costs.

 

Using mini arcade pushbuttons for the keypad buttons, doesn't add much cost, maybe only 1 or 2 dollars per button (hardware cost-wise)...but then the wiring takes significantly longer, as they have to be individually wired vs. simply being soldered to board, with no external wiring, and then the PCB gets mounted internally to the back wall of the enclosure.  Also I'll have to re-draw the layout, and reprogram the milling program, to layout it out this way.  Then don't forget, this would drop the overlay compatibility.  I've done this concept before on a few other designs (24mm rounds and squares are available, in a myriad of colors).

 

ColecoVision - Star Cursor

 

Jaguar

 

5200

 

ColecoVision - Kiosk

17 minutes ago, MIK710_0 said:

If you decide to produce them for the community, I'd be happy to be included on the waiting list for one!
Your prototype is amazing! ^__^
WOW

Thanks. 

 

I'll try to look into the pricing this weekend...since everybody wants one!  🤩  

[+cmart604]

3 hours ago, doubledown said:

Thanks for the clarification!  😁 

 

If people are serious about wanting to purchase one or more of these controllers, I can take an in-depth look into the hardware costs, the time involved to build one, and come up with a selling price.  I do know (only because I ordered them very recently) that the ancillary controls down within the CPO (rocker switch, rotary switches with knobs, pushbutton w/ D41X) alone, cost me ~$90...plus all of the machining, assembly, and wiring time to install them.  As they are separate/independent of the PCB (and the standard joystick, keypad, pushbutton controls), I could make a variant of the controller without the ancillary controls (or with some of, but not all of them), which could be less expensive.  Same goes for the side mounted storage pockets (as they're not integral to the design), as they cost about $10 in filaments, take 9.5 hours to print...each, then another 1/2 hour each, to install them with the fasteners I use.  These pockets alone would probably be a price difference of around $25 per pocket, installed. 

 

I might have some time this weekend to look into this, if not maybe mid to later next week...just have to see.  

I'm very serious about wanting one or more of these. 😍

[+fdr4prez]

On 2/16/2023 at 10:13 AM, doubledown said:

Extra – “++”

 

          The ++ in the controller’s moniker is in reference to the additional feature, of the twin, side-mounted storage pockets.  My original thought, was since I was going to be able to use overlays with this controller, I might as well have some place to conveniently store them, so after checking the thickness of a couple of different overlays, I calculated that a pocket with a width of 20mm, should hold around 100 overlays, without them being overstuffed into place, which may cause damage.  Then I figured, since there’s more than 100 games for the Intellivision (I realize that not all games came with overlays), I might as well install a storage pocket on each side.  Another bit of dumb effin’ luck here too was, that I realized after I had them designed and installed, they’re big enough to store ~100 overlays, or 1 cartridge (and a few overlays) in each.  These storage pockets are also 3D printed like the overlay frame, and are mounted in the same manner, each with (4) recessed, flush-mount screws. 

 

Is the side pocket large enough to hold the standard controller?

 

That way it is easy access and storage for the standard controller for when you need to play with 16-directions?

[doubledown]

48 minutes ago, fdr4prez said:

You may want to reach out to the developers of the Long Play Controller.  

 

With their disk, they are using 12 microswitches under the disc, and some diodes, they say they are getting 16-directions, and they don't need external power.

I've seen pictures of the Côté Gamers' PCB used in their Long Play Controller.  Semantics perhaps, but they are not using "microswitches" in their controllers.  It may just be a language difference, but when someone says microswitches, they are usually referring to a very specific type of micro snap-acting switches, that were trademark named microswitches...way back whenever they were developed.  These are the clicky type of switches that are used in lots of items, including, but not limited to, arcade and home use joystick controls, dating back to the late 70's through today.  The Long Play Controller switches are PCB mount tact switches, that could be referred to as "micro" switches, wherein "micro" is just used as a synonym for "very small."  This is all inconsequential of course, but when I when first read about these controllers, and read that they were using microswitches, I was very surprised, as I couldn't have imagined how they positioned/installed actual microswitches inside that hand controller.  But then when I saw their posted pictures of the PCB, that's when I realized that they weren't using true microswitches, but rather small/micro tact switches.  Again, none of this matters, it's just my own idiotic hang-up with specific terminology!  😅 I don't know the schematic they've used for their design, but the concept I've already envisioned for a 16-way joystick, will also make use of only 12 switches, to achieve the 16 directions.  Electrically I've proven it out in practice, but like I said, I need to find smaller microswitches, probably subminature, or ultraminiature variants, as the standard miniature microswitches, normally used in joysticks, are simply too large to install an 8 switch array on the 2nd level.

 

26 minutes ago, fdr4prez said:

 

Is the side pocket large enough to hold the standard controller?

 

That way it is easy access and storage for the standard controller for when you need to play with 16-directions?

I can check tonight when I get home...I would have to assume, that as/is, it could probably hold a controller standing up on its bottom edge, but definitely not laying down on its side.  

[+fdr4prez]

1 hour ago, doubledown said:

 

1 hour ago, fdr4prez said:

 

Is the side pocket large enough to hold the standard controller?

 

That way it is easy access and storage for the standard controller for when you need to play with 16-directions?

I can check tonight when I get home...I would have to assume, that as/is, it could probably hold a controller standing up on its bottom edge, but definitely not laying down on its side.  

That's what I was assume, too.

 

Like a donkey's ear sticking up  

[+fdr4prez]

1 hour ago, doubledown said:

2 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

You may want to reach out to the developers of the Long Play Controller.  

 

With their disk, they are using 12 microswitches under the disc, and some diodes, they say they are getting 16-directions, and they don't need external power.

I've seen pictures of the Côté Gamers' PCB used in their Long Play Controller.  Semantics perhaps, but they are not using "microswitches" in their controllers.  It may just be a language difference, but when someone says microswitches, they are usually referring to a very specific type of micro snap-acting switches, that were trademark named microswitches...way back whenever they were developed.  These are the clicky type of switches that are used in lots of items, including, but not limited to, arcade and home use joystick controls, dating back to the late 70's through today.  The Long Play Controller switches are PCB mount tact switches, that could be referred to as "micro" switches, wherein "micro" is just used as a synonym for "very small."  This is all inconsequential of course, but when I when first read about these controllers, and read that they were using microswitches, I was very surprised, as I couldn't have imagined how they positioned/installed actual microswitches inside that hand controller.  But then when I saw their posted pictures of the PCB, that's when I realized that they weren't using true microswitches, but rather small/micro tact switches.  Again, none of this matters, it's just my own idiotic hang-up with specific terminology!  😅 I don't know the schematic they've used for their design, but the concept I've already envisioned for a 16-way joystick, will also make use of only 12 switches, to achieve the 16 directions.  Electrically I've proven it out in practice, but like I said, I need to find smaller microswitches, probably subminature, or ultraminiature variants, as the standard miniature microswitches, normally used in joysticks, are simply too large to install an 8 switch array on the 2nd level.

yes, we are on the same page in terms of terminology - "micro switches" meaning small tactile switches.

 

My point is they are doing 12 switches on the single level, where you are thinking of doing 16 switches in two levels, so if you can reduce it down to 12 switches, too, then maybe you won't need two levels? 

 

(for others that haven't seen it) if you scroll down on the linked page, they show it:

Long Play Disc Controller (cotegamers.com)

 

[doubledown]

2 hours ago, fdr4prez said:

That's what I was assume, too.

 

Like a donkey's ear sticking up  

just checked...doesn't fit as is, tried with a controller from the SSVA.  Could always be modified of course, to even make it overlay/cartridge sized on one side, and hand controller sized on the other, or what not.  Obviously the larger the pockets are, the more filament they take to print, and the longer they take to print...but they can always be changed/modified, to suit any needs.  

 

1 hour ago, fdr4prez said:

yes, we are on the same page in terms of terminology - "micro switches" meaning small tactile switches.

 

My point is they are doing 12 switches on the single level, where you are thinking of doing 16 switches in two levels, so if you can reduce it down to 12 switches, too, then maybe you won't need two levels? 

 

(for others that haven't seen it) if you scroll down on the linked page, they show it:

Long Play Disc Controller (cotegamers.com)

No, so right now, a standard joystick uses 4 miniature sized, snap action microswitches, to get either 4 or 8 directions...depending on the restrictor and/or the actuator.  My 8-way INTV joystick still uses 4 miniature sized microswitches for the 4 cardinal directions, plus an additional level of 4 more miniature sized microswitches, for the diagonals....all working in concert with my specially designed 2 stage actuator.  This all allows me to dictate the dead-band, throw distance, and sensitivity of the joystick's actuation, within the physical limits of the components.  This is also how my joystick can also be a true 4-way, as I can break the ground line to the diagonal microswitches so they don't register.  My plan for a 16-way, is to change the 2nd row from 4 to 8 microswitches (for a total of 12), although they will have to be smaller than miniature sized, so that I can still do all the things I can do with the 8-way...convert to 4-way, as well as adjust the joystick operational parameters/feel.  If they were all on the same level as a 16-way, then the conversion to a 4-way would have huge dead-bands of no contact, and would be basically worthless as a 4-way.  

[AtariBrian]

On 2/16/2023 at 5:02 PM, IntvCasey said:

Looks great and I’d like to be put on the list as well. 

If you are going to buy one of these regardless of cost, maybe it's not too late to cancel your two Bdretromod ones 

Edited February 18, 2023 by AtariBrian

[+fdr4prez]

3 hours ago, doubledown said:

just checked...doesn't fit as is, tried with a controller from the SSVA.  Could always be modified of course, to even make it overlay/cartridge sized on one side, and hand controller sized on the other, or what not.  Obviously the larger the pockets are, the more filament they take to print, and the longer they take to print...but they can always be changed/modified, to suit any needs.  

At this point, i won't bother changing anything.  

 

It was more of a curiosity, and as you said it can always be changed/modified as a "customization", or a print-it-yourself add-on. 

 

3 hours ago, doubledown said:

No, so right now, a standard joystick uses 4 miniature sized, snap action microswitches, to get either 4 or 8 directions...depending on the restrictor and/or the actuator.  My 8-way INTV joystick still uses 4 miniature sized microswitches for the 4 cardinal directions, plus an additional level of 4 more miniature sized microswitches, for the diagonals....all working in concert with my specially designed 2 stage actuator.  This all allows me to dictate the dead-band, throw distance, and sensitivity of the joystick's actuation, within the physical limits of the components.  This is also how my joystick can also be a true 4-way, as I can break the ground line to the diagonal microswitches so they don't register.  My plan for a 16-way, is to change the 2nd row from 4 to 8 microswitches (for a total of 12), although they will have to be smaller than miniature sized, so that I can still do all the things I can do with the 8-way...convert to 4-way, as well as adjust the joystick operational parameters/feel.  If they were all on the same level as a 16-way, then the conversion to a 4-way would have huge dead-bands of no contact, and would be basically worthless as a 4-way.  

nice, thanks.

 

[doubledown]

Here's a low-res sample of a woodgrain CPO for use on a "tandyvision one "controller:

 

 

I'd need to print some test samples to check the color match for the woodgrain and the grey, but at least I've got the Radio Shack and Tandy fonts now. 

[wolfy62]

3 hours ago, doubledown said:

Here's a low-res sample of a woodgrain CPO for use on a "tandyvision one "controller:

 

 

I'd need to print some test samples to check the color match for the woodgrain and the grey, but at least I've got the Radio Shack and Tandy fonts now. 

The controller would look amazing in woodgrain!👍

Mr.Doubledown,do you still also make that awesome 5200 joystick?

I definitely need one of those also!

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, wolfy62 said:

The controller would look amazing in woodgrain!👍

Mr.Doubledown,do you still also make that awesome 5200 joystick?

I definitely need one of those also!

I've made (2) 5200 controllers in the past, the one pictured above that my buddy has, and the one I made for myself:

 

 

They require a lot of hand wiring because of the keypad, and the joystick potentiometers and resistors (X2 on my Space Dungeon version)...before I made any more, I would want to design a PCB with a built-in keypad, and with the potentiometers and resistors soldered to the board.  

 

I started working on color matching a "simulated" gold CPO tonight for a match to the 2609 Master Component and Sylvania/GTE consoles.  Color matching to the 2609 console I have access too...is about as good as it's going to get, without trying to print on some sort of metallic 11" x 17" paper. 

 

I will say, that the 2609 that I have access to, is definitely what I would call a more red gold, then a yellow gold.  I realize that color perception is very different from person to person, but to others with a 2609, would you say that the metal plates are more red gold, then bright yellow gold...or a more standard yellow gold?  Pictures on the internet don't help at all due to lighting, the camera used, the monitor I'm looking at it on, and so forth.  

[doubledown]

A burlwood CPO to match the Sears Super Video Arcade might look something like this;

 

 

I just found the burlwood sample online, I'm not sure how well it would actually print (vs. scanning my own sample), but I just wanted to see what it might look like.  

[+cmart604]

30 minutes ago, doubledown said:

A burlwood CPO to match the Sears Super Video Arcade might look something like this;

 

 

I just found the burlwood sample online, I'm not sure how well it would actually print (vs. scanning my own sample), but I just wanted to see what it might look like.  

Yikes! This is going to get expensive. Would it be better named the Super Video Arcade Controller? 

[doubledown]

41 minutes ago, cmart604 said:

Yikes! This is going to get expensive. Would it be better named the Super Video Arcade Controller? 

Perhaps.  The woodgrain and burlwood mockups are just a starting point...only changing the background/fill, and the text and brand name logos on the left side.  Changing any other text and/or fonts, start potentially running into re-sizing and layout concerns, I just had to start somewhere.  I came up with the Super Pro Arcade Controller moniker generically, as a lot of the later INTV games were Super Pro something or other, so it seemed kind of fitting I thought.  

[+grips03]

Does 4 way operation use a physical restrictor to limit the joystick movement?  Example user presses joystick to the right.  How does the joystick stop from moving up or down and only allows right?  I understand only certain microswitches are involved, but wondering how only one microswitch (right) stays involved with that movement and joystick doesn't slip up or down at all and accidentally engages a second microswitch.

[+cmart604]

1 hour ago, doubledown said:

Perhaps.  The woodgrain and burlwood mockups are just a starting point...only changing the background/fill, and the text and brand name logos on the left side.  Changing any other text and/or fonts, start potentially running into re-sizing and layout concerns, I just had to start somewhere.  I came up with the Super Pro Arcade Controller moniker generically, as a lot of the later INTV games were Super Pro something or other, so it seemed kind of fitting I thought.  

Yep I think the Super Pro moniker is great but was just thinking for the Sears one only might Super Video Arcade be appropriate if you chose to make that one. 🤔

[doubledown]

10 hours ago, grips03 said:

Does 4 way operation use a physical restrictor to limit the joystick movement?  Example user presses joystick to the right.  How does the joystick stop from moving up or down and only allows right?  I understand only certain microswitches are involved, but wondering how only one microswitch (right) stays involved with that movement and joystick doesn't slip up or down at all and accidentally engages a second microswitch.

The SuzoHapp Ultimate joystick I started with, like most "western" joysticks...does not have a configurable restrictor/gate like those used in most "Japanese" type of joysticks.  The physical range (or geometric shape) of allowable motion is instead "restricted" by the integral components of the joystick, including the Hub, the Pivot Cylinder, the Switch Bracket, and/or the Z-Stop.  That said, this particular joystick's shape of "motion," is a round circle.  The factory actuator, is a large square shaped component, that can hit any 1 microswitch in any of the cardinal directions, plus is large enough to hit a an additional neighboring switch when attempting diagonals.  By changing stage 1 of my actuator from this large square shape, to a smaller round shape, it is physically impossible for my actuator to hit any 2 switches at the same time, creating a true "break-before-make" 4-way configuration.  This concept has been used for years, with joysticks made by Wico, Coin Controls, and Happ.  These joysticks would have come with either 2 separate actuators (1 larger diameter for 8-way, and 1 smaller diameter for 4-way), or it would have been a bi-directional hour-glass shaped actuator, that when installed one way, would provide an 8-way joystick, or when flipped over would provide a 4-way joystick.  But of course with any of these types of configurable joysticks, wherein physical components have to be swapped or replaced to change from a 8-way to 4-way (and back), they always require tools and disassembly to go from one to another, as they were all, only using 4-microswithces.  But because I had to add a 2nd layer of microswitches for the diagonals, versus a larger actuator to 2 hit switches at once (which doesn't work with the INTV wiring), I am able to simply "switch" on or off the diagonal switches, and convert to a 8-way or a 4-way without any tools, disassembly, and or parts swapping/reconfiguring.  

 

10 hours ago, cmart604 said:

Yep I think the Super Pro moniker is great but was just thinking for the Sears one only might Super Video Arcade be appropriate if you chose to make that one. 🤔

All entirely possible, as is potentially changing the fonts on the CPO, from the standard Intellivision font, to one specific to that version, like the Tandy font for the tandyvision one version...and so on.  A lot of times special fonts like these (vs the ones built into Widows, lets say), are so radically different in size, even when they are the same font size, that the layout has to be adjusted/manipulated for everything to remain sized properly and aligned.  Like I said, the wooden samples above are just a quick starting point I mocked up, to show the possible differences in console matching variations.  

[doubledown]

I had a chance to look at pricing for this Intellivision controller tonight...because everybody thinks they want one...and this is what I've come up with.  To completely reproduce this controller, exactly as it is built/pictured in the first post (with all features & options), would be $550.00.  The CPO could either be the "simulated" aluminum, wood grain, or burl wood (still not super happy with the "simulated" gold as an option at this point)...no difference in price.  I'd still have to finalize the designs/colors of the wood grain and burl wood CPOs, but the samples above give you an idea on how they would look.  The price of a controller could however be lower, if some of the features/options are deleted...the ones that aren't truly necessary  

 

At a minimum, the controller would still be built into the same braced & reinforced Hammond 17" x 11" aluminum enclosure, with the same modified SuzoHapp joystick w/ 4-way/8-way selector switch, the same PCB w/ keypad w/ overlay frame, the same 3 pushbuttons (wired to your preference), and the same 12' cable with rear mounted cord cleats.  The deletion of features/options would be price subtractions as follows:

 

(-$125.00) Pushbutton selector switches, removal of the 3 rotary selector switches that allow the pushbuttons to be wired as any of the 3 side action buttons, means the pushbuttons would be hard-wired to the PCB, in a fixed configuration...buyer's preference

 

(-$25.00) Pause button, removal of the pause button, means that you would not have a separate & dedicated Pause pushbutton, but rather could just use the keypad combination pause feature, as available, by game

 

(-$25.00 x1 or x2) Side mounted storage pockets, removal of the side storage pockets can save -$25.00 to remove 1, and install only 1 (left or right side selectable), or save -$50.00 with no side pockets installed.  

 

Of course if any of the control features/options are deleted, the CPO would be altered to reflect this, by removing the legend text for these deleted controls.  

 

So for example, a controller without the 3 rotary pushbutton selector switches, without the dedicated pause button, and without the 2 side storage pockets, would be priced at $350.00.  Then of course a price for a controller with only some of these features/options deleted, can be calculated by subtracting the individual deletion prices, from the fully optioned starting price of $550.00.  I also include a serial number matching manual, with all of my controllers...as I know how collectors love to collect stuff.  

 

If somebody really wants this first Super Pro Arcade Controller (AL) DX++ (serial numbered **PROTOTYPE**) that is pictured/detailed (with all options) in the first post for $550, right damn now, send me a private message, and I'll make myself a new one, with the remaining PCB that I have.  If you're interested in something else (different CPO, different list of options) let me know, and we'll start a list of what people want, to see how many PCBs I would need to order, to get started.  Thanks.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Nice work, as usual, DoubleDown!

👍😎 👍

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, SiLic0ne t0aD said:

Nice work, as usual, DoubleDown!

👍😎 👍

I thank you.  It's really just a testament to what can be achieved, when money is no object...within some reason of course.  😉

 

Now I'm waiting for my friend to decide on which variant he wants.  Once he makes a decision (I'm voting for a TandyVision One edition), we'll finalize some details, and then I can order the parts that I'll need for that one.  During/after that one, I'll be building a game specific Night Stalker / Ms. Night Stalker controller that I really want to make.  It will be "similar-ish" to the Vanguard arcade cabinet control panel, with a joystick for movement, and 4 buttons for shooting...and that one will of course be connectable to both controllers ports so that I can run and shoot simultaneously.  After that one, I'm also considering a game specific controller for AD&D, which like the Night Stalker controller, would include a joystick for movement, buttons for shooting, and 2 controller cables...although that one will need 8-way controls for both, vs. Night Stalker's 4-way controls.  Then at some point when I have time, I'll probably post some pics of the Lock 'N Chase - Experience Controller I built way back around the end of '21, but never got around to posting.  I was able to find a set of the original arcade controls (joystick/button) from a DECO Lock 'N Chase cocktail table way back, so I built a dedicated controller for it..as I love the arcade game, and it's Intellivision port was obviously the best contemporary port available...way better than the 2600 version.  So stay tuned!

[IMBerzerk]

19 hours ago, doubledown said:

I thank you.  It's really just a testament to what can be achieved, when money is no object...within some reason of course.  😉

 

Now I'm waiting for my friend to decide on which variant he wants.  Once he makes a decision (I'm voting for a TandyVision One edition), we'll finalize some details, and then I can order the parts that I'll need for that one.  During/after that one, I'll be building a game specific Night Stalker / Ms. Night Stalker controller that I really want to make.  It will be "similar-ish" to the Vanguard arcade cabinet control panel, with a joystick for movement, and 4 buttons for shooting...and that one will of course be connectable to both controllers ports so that I can run and shoot simultaneously.  After that one, I'm also considering a game specific controller for AD&D, which like the Night Stalker controller, would include a joystick for movement, buttons for shooting, and 2 controller cables...although that one will need 8-way controls for both, vs. Night Stalker's 4-way controls.  Then at some point when I have time, I'll probably post some pics of the Lock 'N Chase - Experience Controller I built way back around the end of '21, but never got around to posting.  I was able to find a set of the original arcade controls (joystick/button) from a DECO Lock 'N Chase cocktail table way back, so I built a dedicated controller for it..as I love the arcade game, and it's Intellivision port was obviously the best contemporary port available...way better than the 2600 version.  So stay tuned!

Hi.  Just wanted to say how outstanding your work is.  I was wondering what you used to cut the holes in the panel for the switches. For years I've been thinking of creating a USB plug-in control panel for Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) that I could configure for my F-86 Sabre.  Until I saw your post, I hadn't thought of using a box like this.  It's the perfect size to fit an I-Pac and all that I would need for the panel for guns, engines, radios, etc.  So if I could pick your brain a little... printing of panel over-lay, and cutting the metal...how did you make it so perfect.  Thanks!

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, IMBerzerk said:

Hi.  Just wanted to say how outstanding your work is.  I was wondering what you used to cut the holes in the panel for the switches. For years I've been thinking of creating a USB plug-in control panel for Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) that I could configure for my F-86 Sabre.  Until I saw your post, I hadn't thought of using a box like this.  It's the perfect size to fit an I-Pac and all that I would need for the panel for guns, engines, radios, etc.  So if I could pick your brain a little... printing of panel over-lay, and cutting the metal...how did you make it so perfect.  Thanks!

With regards to machining the aluminum enclosures, I do admit that I have an unfair advantage over most:

 

 

We have a small CNC mill at work that I operate when needed.  In the world of CNC mills, this is very much considered a hobbyist model...and we mostly only use it for prototyping parts designs, prior to having our fabricators run off a full production lot.  But, for what I need it for, when machining controller enclosures...its gets the job done pretty well...and it does it a helluva lot better (and faster) job than I ever could (both regarding accuracy and repeatability), if I was drilling and/or cutting holes by hand.

 

 

The above panel in particular, was machined for a Galaxian "Cocktail" Experience controller that I previously built, using the original arcade control hardware from a North American, Midway MFG., Galaxian cocktail table:

 

The extra switch and rotary knob along the top, are ColecoVision specific for navigating a multi-cart menu (if necessary, as the game control is Left/Right only), and assigning the Player 1 and Player 2 start buttons to the different keypad buttons, for the different difficulty level options in the Atarisoft port.  

 

Here's the real arcade cabinet for reference...*Note, the following picture has been "borrowed" from the internet:

 

 

For the artwork I use, I print on an Epson XP-15000 wide format inkjet photo printer that I bought a few years back, normally on Premium Photo Glossy paper, then its dual-sided heat-laminated for protection of the art.  I apply a 3M sheet adhesive to the entire back of the laminated artwork, trim it all as one piece, and then apply it like a giant, very thick, sticker.  Then I use a small hobby knife to cut out the artwork where any holes exist for the controls, or for fasteners, or the anything else.  

 

All pretty simple really!  😁

[+cmart604]

Decisions....decisions.... 🤔

[doubledown]

24 minutes ago, cmart604 said:

Decisions....decisions.... 🤔

The best decision...is no decision...collect them all!