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CV-NUC+ DIY Builders Thread


mytek

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12 minutes ago, mytek said:

Looks like your printer did a great job :)


Oh, I do not have a 3D printer

I used a professional service to get it printed.

Not the cheapest (not from China, but close to my hometown here in Germany) put the result is always good quality

 

I will surely post some more pictures, once the resistor arrays arrive 

the AV adapter will show up at some point of time 🙂 

 

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47 minutes ago, mytek said:

If you can't find it, this one works very well for me...

image.png.447faff225a1fabb07531a9d7ea47a20.png

Amazon LINK

 

Yepp, I have ordered exactly this a few days back

but it is coming from China - will take a while

Used to be available at Amazon Germany - but out of stock now

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/11/2023 at 8:53 AM, LarryL said:

Yepp, I have ordered exactly this a few days back

but it is coming from China - will take a while

Used to be available at Amazon Germany - but out of stock now

 

Any update?

 

Just curious if you ever got one of these cheap HDMI converters and what results you are seeing from your CV-NUC+.

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25 minutes ago, mytek said:

Any update?

 

Just curious if you ever got one of these cheap HDMI converters and what results you are seeing from your CV-NUC+.


yepp, working on it from time to time (but having limiter spare time actually)

will write some details later

just in short:

having tested two Converters: the one you showed on you web page does not show any picture at all - not via CVBS and not via S-Video

another one, having only CVBS shows a picture with strange colours, mostly yellow

I might have a fake LM1889 - need to check in more details

 

regards

Michael

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1 hour ago, LarryL said:

another one, having only CVBS shows a picture with strange colours, mostly yellow

I might have a fake LM1889 - need to check in more details

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you can get things sorted out and working better soon.

 

Utsource.net is a good source for non-fake chips: LM1889N

 

Other than doing chip swapping, be sure to check for missed solder joints, bridging, and wrong value components.

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27 minutes ago, 5-11under said:

I've used them for relatively obscure parts a few time, with good success so far.

Tomorrow I will receive one from UK - let’s see.

in the meantime I am checking (3rd time) solder joints, shorts, values, etc. 🙂

I will also receive spare VDPs from China during next weeks

 

I will do some screenshots during next days and post them

I will also scope the different clock signals and post the pictures

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2 hours ago, LarryL said:

Success!

 

changed the LM1889 and now I have color 🙂


IMG_1056.thumb.jpeg.729ec16716ebba20518ec561674e7839.jpeg

 

will do some further tests with different screens and adapters

Very nice 👍  So it looks like Utsource.net would be the more reliable place to get these obsolete parts from (although you went to a different source?).

 

Is that direct to a TV or via an HDMI adapter?

 

Edit: BTW, I'm still waiting for someone to do a good video review on one of these guys, since my video skills kinda suck. Be nice for giving someone a better overview of what this project is about, and all that it can do out of the box. If you know of someone that can do that I would be very appreciative, and would love to post it at my website as well.

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It wasn’t utsource, but a seller from UK - eBay name „myretrostore-uk“

 

this is via a AV2HDMI converter, not the one you recommended, but another Chinese model (but without S-Video)

 

will do some more video tests during the week (the other converter, direct connection to TV, etc.)

Will also run all the test Programms you provided, to check if all is good (Joystick and Keyboard are basically working)

 

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  • 2 months later...

It's been a couple of months so I thought I'd BUMP this thread :)

 

Just curious if anyone else besides @LarryL has attempted to build one of these?

 

--------------------

 

I finally found a good inexpensive video capture device that'll work with the video coming out of the CV-NUC+, so I'm contemplating doing a much nicer demo video down the road of what all this system can do. If and when that happens, I'll be sure to put a link all about it in the main CV-NUC+ thread.

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2 minutes ago, LarryL said:

Just sold one set of bare PCBs to somebody in Germany (started selling off the remaining 4 sets)

so maybe one more to join soon 🙂

Cool :thumbsup:

 

There have also been around a dozen completely assembled units and several DIY Kits sold by TBA. However it seems like interest has dropped off on these DIY version ColecoVision boards this year. Last year when I was developing the CV-NUC+, there were at least two other full sized CV boards under active discussion, and a ADAM computer project as well. None the less I really enjoyed creating what I did, and have several members here to thank for helping me figure out what that was going to be.

 

Still waiting to see a FujiNet cartridge specifically aimed at the CV game console to appear ;)

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I'm not someone that has the skills or the time to learn the skills to build one myself. I ordered a fully assembled CV-NUC+ from TBA about a month ago. There is a bit of a delay in build times but that isn't unusual for our hobby:) Really looking forward to breaking it in.

 

It seems to me that the value of the CV-NUC+ can't be beat. At first glance the price looks a little high until you really break it down. The built-in keypad opens up a world of choice for controllers. Built in SGM is sweet and a money saver. Modern day power supply. Compact size. Play the actual game on the cart and not emulation like another system I own. Real hardware that isn't 40+ years old. Can be hooked to a modern TV without having to mod the system. Making this purchase was a no brainer after considering all of that. Thank you for the work you put into the development. 

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On 11/14/2023 at 1:29 PM, discotronic said:

It seems to me that the value of the CV-NUC+ can't be beat. At first glance the price looks a little high until you really break it down. The built-in keypad opens up a world of choice for controllers. Built in SGM is sweet and a money saver. Modern day power supply. Compact size. Play the actual game on the cart and not emulation like another system I own. Real hardware that isn't 40+ years old. Can be hooked to a modern TV without having to mod the system. Making this purchase was a no brainer after considering all of that. Thank you for the work you put into the development.

You pretty much covered it, but did miss the USB Mouse to Roller Controller Conversion built-in as well ;-)

 

Glad you approved and I hope it gives you many hours of enjoyment 👍

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On 11/14/2023 at 2:22 PM, mytek said:

Cool :thumbsup:

 

There have also been around a dozen completely assembled units and several DIY Kits sold by TBA. However it seems like interest has dropped off on these DIY version ColecoVision boards this year. Last year when I was developing the CV-NUC+, there were at least two other full sized CV boards under active discussion, and a ADAM computer project as well. None the less I really enjoyed creating what I did, and have several members here to thank for helping me figure out what that was going to be.

 

Still waiting to see a FujiNet cartridge specifically aimed at the CV game console to appear ;)

Can you speak to the CV-NUC+ options available on TBA?  I'm super confused about what is currently available in order to have a complete one.  It sounds like if I buy "DIY+Chips" and "Case Only",  that should cover everything?  If not,  what is missing?  Because the pricing is vastly different for those 2 options vs the "complete" options.  Makes me think there is something not included in "DIY+Chips"

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1 hour ago, retrolust said:

Can you speak to the CV-NUC+ options available on TBA?  I'm super confused about what is currently available in order to have a complete one.  It sounds like if I buy "DIY+Chips" and "Case Only",  that should cover everything?  If not,  what is missing?  Because the pricing is vastly different for those 2 options vs the "complete" options.  Makes me think there is something not included in "DIY+Chips"

I think I'll let @MacRorie chime in on this, just to be sure we get the correct information :)

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On 11/18/2023 at 8:18 AM, retrolust said:

Can you speak to the CV-NUC+ options available on TBA?  I'm super confused about what is currently available in order to have a complete one.  It sounds like if I buy "DIY+Chips" and "Case Only",  that should cover everything?  If not,  what is missing?  Because the pricing is vastly different for those 2 options vs the "complete" options.  Makes me think there is something not included in "DIY+Chips"

 

On 11/18/2023 at 8:18 AM, retrolust said:

Can you speak to the CV-NUC+ options available on TBA?  I'm super confused about what is currently available in order to have a complete one.  It sounds like if I buy "DIY+Chips" and "Case Only",  that should cover everything?  If not,  what is missing?  Because the pricing is vastly different for those 2 options vs the "complete" options.  Makes me think there is something not included in "DIY+Chips"

I try to be pretty clear on the website.  Here is the text from the order page.  Not all options are available right now because of things.  Let me know what I can do to make this more clear.  Thanks!

 

Complete, tested, assembled into a case with a built-in keypad: This is a plug and play version.  All you need is a standard Atari/Commodore/TI (5pin din) A/V cable and a controller (any Atari standard one will do!) and play away.   Includes a 3d printed case.

Complete, tested, assembled into a case WITHOUT a built-in keypad: This is a plug and play version.  All you need is a standard Atari/Commodore/TI (5pin din) A/V cable and a controller (any ColecoVision standard one will do!) and play away.   Includes a 3d printed case.

DIY with all hard to find/programmable chips All chips will be programmed (where necessary) AND soldered to the board (SMD) or soldered into their sockets (DIP). No case included (see note below of what is included in this option)

DIY-Bare Boards:  All four boards (Main, MSX, Quad, & Keypad) bare as the day they were manufactured in beautiful blue!

DIY-ATF1500A-10JU & Socket: This chip is fairly easy to find, BUT it requires a VERY special (and expensive) programmer in order to flash it.  SO, for those DIY folks that want to do everything else themselves, but don't want to buy a programmer just for this chip, here you go.

Case only: This is just the 3D printed case with all screws and insets. Also, includes both lid types (hole for keypad and no hole)  Grey is the default color.  If you want a different color, contact us for costs and availability.

 

Items included in DIY-Chips

All 4 PCBs PCBsx4
U3 LM1889
U3 Socket 18 DIP
U5 FMS6400
U8 TMS9128Nl
U8 Socket 40 pin DW
U9 AT28C64B
U9 Socket 28p DW
MSX-U1 ATF1500A-10JU
MSX-U1 Socket PLCC-44-AT
MSX-U3 SN76489AN
MSX-U3 Socket 16p DW
MSX-U4 YM2149F
MSX-U4 Socket 40p DW
Q-U2 CH554G
Q-J5 USB Type-A
Q-C12,C13 Cap Cer 0.1uF
Q-R12 RES 10k 1/8w
Q-J4 Conn Pin Header
K-U2 PIC16F30-I/P
K-U2 Socket 14p DW
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  • 1 month later...

Got a quick question.  

 

 

I fully assembled the Quad board and then I am trying to flash the 554 chip.  The software is unable to detect the board.  My question is...should i have only installed the minimum parts(as noted) and then attempt to flash the 554?

 

Thank you.

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1 minute ago, MattS said:

Got a quick question.  

 

 

I fully assembled the Quad board and then I am trying to flash the 554 chip.  The software is unable to detect the board.  My question is...should i have only installed the minimum parts(as noted) and then attempt to flash the 554?

 

Thank you.

It can be flashed with all the components already installed, or with the minimum. Did you install the shorting Boot jumper before connecting the board to USB? This jumper should remain in place until programming has completed.

 

Minimum Components Required for Flashing CH554G chip

https://ataribits.weebly.com/uploads/5/8/8/6/58865739/quad_flash_minparts.png

 

Are you flashing from Windows or Linux?

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22 hours ago, mytek said:

It can be flashed with all the components already installed, or with the minimum. Did you install the shorting Boot jumper before connecting the board to USB? This jumper should remain in place until programming has completed.

 

Minimum Components Required for Flashing CH554G chip

https://ataribits.weebly.com/uploads/5/8/8/6/58865739/quad_flash_minparts.png

 

Are you flashing from Windows or Linux?

Thank you for replying!  Yes sir.  I used the shorting boot jumper before connecting the board.  I am using windows and the flashing software cannot find the board.  I also tried a different version of the software and no luck.  I am still waiting for a part( a chip that wont arrive for another week or two) to finish the main board.  At that point i can plug in the daughter board and check for voltages.  Do you have any other suggestions or ideas?

 

I can take a picture of the board tomorrow and post it.

 

Thank you again!

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19 hours ago, MattS said:

Do you have any other suggestions or ideas?

Nothing else I can add with what you've presented thus far, however I did put this together a while back that steps through the flashing process using the Windows application.

Flashing the CH554G.pdf

Here's a link to the manufacturer's site with the application download: https://wch-ic.com/products/CH554.html

 

The problem is you apparently aren't seeing the CH554G when plugging in the USB cable, so that needs to be corrected first. I wonder if it's a missing USB driver specific to that chip or maybe a faulty USB cable. I use Linux with a Win XP client in VirtualBox to run that WCHISP Tool application. Its been a while since I last did this, but I believe Windows spotted the CH554G USB connection the first time and a little pop-up confirmed that the driver was installed. Maybe try downloading and install the app from the site to see if that corrects the issue.

 

Sorry I can't say "Do this, and everything will now work".

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On 12/21/2023 at 6:09 PM, mytek said:

Nothing else I can add with what you've presented thus far, however I did put this together a while back that steps through the flashing process using the Windows application.

Flashing the CH554G.pdf 310.86 kB · 2 downloads

Here's a link to the manufacturer's site with the application download: https://wch-ic.com/products/CH554.html

 

The problem is you apparently aren't seeing the CH554G when plugging in the USB cable, so that needs to be corrected first. I wonder if it's a missing USB driver specific to that chip or maybe a faulty USB cable. I use Linux with a Win XP client in VirtualBox to run that WCHISP Tool application. Its been a while since I last did this, but I believe Windows spotted the CH554G USB connection the first time and a little pop-up confirmed that the driver was installed. Maybe try downloading and install the app from the site to see if that corrects the issue.

 

Sorry I can't say "Do this, and everything will now work".

I appreciate the ideas and help.  I bought a new usb cable, re-flowed the 554 chip and checked voltages and data paths.  All seemed good.  Next, I may just replace the chip. Have a merry Christmas

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