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The Paddles


MittyOz

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, astroguy said:

WD40 wouldn't be my first choice.  I'd try DeoxIt first.  Be sure to keep everything clean and give some updates on how the paddles hold up. 

I’ve used Spray & Stay Gel Lubricant a few years ago on my original paddles. They are still jitter free and working great today!

 

I use Electronic Spray cleaner first on Original paddles then the Gel lubricant. If you just use the cleaner it’s only temporary and the jitter will return from my experience.

 

But I will keep updating on how well it holds up on my New CX30+ paddles. It couldn’t do any harm since they started developing jitter. Paddle games are not playable with jittery paddles! Jittery paddles are useless so no loss.

 

If you don’t feel comfortable with this idea don’t try it. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask I’ll be playing Super Breakout on my Atari 2600+ with my New CX30+ paddles! Jitter Free Hee! Hee!

 

If they are working leave them alone!

 

Like they say “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”

 

 

Edited by MrChickenz
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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, MrChickenz said:

The New CX30+ paddles on Super Breakout Game Select 5. Before and After Gel Spray.

 

IMG_0577.mov IMG_0690.mov

Wow! That's a huge difference. They still have the slight emulation jitter, but what they were originally is terrible. Pretty much unplayable. I don't have Super Breakout to try on my 2600+, but I do on my FB12G, and it's like the 'after' version using both my CX30+ paddles and the junky paddles it came with. If it develops that nasty jitter I'll know what to try. 

Edited by Gabe
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I applied some deoxit carefully on the gap on the shaft and after some playtime, I gotta say I'm somewhat happy with the results.  Got just over 16K in Kaboom -- note this is on real hardware.  The resolution problem on the 2600+ is still problematic. 

 

I still have a dead-spot on one paddle that also has significant wobble in the shaft leading to a lot of jitter, but the other paddle has cleaned up.    So I now have 1 working paddle, good thing I don't have any friends. 

IMG_6448.png

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51 minutes ago, astroguy said:

I applied some deoxit carefully on the gap on the shaft and after some playtime, I gotta say I'm somewhat happy with the results.  Got just over 16K in Kaboom -- note this is on real hardware.  The resolution problem on the 2600+ is still problematic. 

 

I still have a dead-spot on one paddle that also has significant wobble in the shaft leading to a lot of jitter, but the other paddle has cleaned up.    So I now have 1 working paddle, good thing I don't have any friends. 

IMG_6448.png

I have to try the New CX30+ paddles on original 2600. I haven’t tried that yet.

You have friends here LOL!

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Posted (edited)

I just tried Super Breakout with the New CX30+ paddles on my Retron 77. With the 2600-daptor II and they work smooth! No course feel. No pixel movement.

 

 I still have to try the original 2600!

 

Edited by MrChickenz
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8 hours ago, MrChickenz said:

CX30+ paddles work great on my 2600 6 switch. Super Breakout plays smooth, No jitter, No course or pixel movement.

Really smooth!

Well, all this Super Breakout talk forced me to have to buy one. 😁 I just ordered a cartridge and a new label through eBay. I mean, I have it on my Flashback 12 Gold and Gamestation Pro, but I'd rather play it on my 2600+ for the nostalgia. It'll be cart number three, with Kaboom! and Pitfall being the other two. Plus the 10 in 1 that came with the 2600+ and the 4 in 1 that came with the paddle pack. I'm slowly building a collection again. 

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5 hours ago, Gabe said:

Well, all this Super Breakout talk forced me to have to buy one. 😁 I just ordered a cartridge and a new label through eBay. I mean, I have it on my Flashback 12 Gold and Gamestation Pro, but I'd rather play it on my 2600+ for the nostalgia. It'll be cart number three, with Kaboom! and Pitfall being the other two. Plus the 10 in 1 that came with the 2600+ and the 4 in 1 that came with the paddle pack. I'm slowly building a collection again. 

Nice! You won’t regret. I like playing game 5 Cavity! All the game variations are good though.

Edited by MrChickenz
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Update: on my New CX30+ paddles playing Super Breakout on my Atari 2600+.

 

I posted two clips on how Super Breakout is working for me with the New CX30+ paddles on my Atari 2600+.

 

I don’t have a capture card so video isn’t the greatest. And trying to capture the video while playing wasn’t my best.

This is very playable you can see course movement but it’s not really effecting game play at all! No jitter at all!

 

First clip start of game.

Second clip a little more into the game to show the ball moving at a faster speed

 

 

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On 6/8/2024 at 12:58 PM, MrChickenz said:

It’s just 2 screws to remove from the back of the paddle controller and one nut to access the shaft to the potentiometer.

UPDATE: No need to take the paddle apart! The shaft to the potentiometer can be accessed by pulling off the knob. Just apply the Spray & Stay Gel Lubricant where you see the arrow pointing to the yellow line in the picture. Turn back and forth to work it in, clean up any excess.

 

If you don’t feel comfortable with this idea don’t try it. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask I’ll be playing Super Breakout on my Atari 2600+ with my New CX30+ paddles! Jitter Free Hee! Hee!

 

If they are working leave them alone!

 

Like they say “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”

IMG_0696.jpeg

Edited by MrChickenz
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So in my opinion the course movement or pixel by pixel movement in Super Breakout is most likely emulation issues.

I don’t notice this with other paddle games just Super Breakout.

 

Would I like to see a smoother movement of the paddles in Super Breakout? Yes! Definitely if it can be done with a firmware update.

But it’s not stopping me from playing Super Breakout on the Atari 2600+ using the New CX30+ paddles or the Original paddles.

 

Have You Played Super Breakout on Atari 2600+ Today? I Have! 👍

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On 6/8/2024 at 12:58 PM, MrChickenz said:

My new CX30+ paddles also developed jitter. One of my posts I mentioned how I cleaned original paddle sets.And how I used a Spray & Stay Gel Lubricant for (electronics) on the potentiometer. I stated that it only works on original paddles, that’s not correct I just used it on my new CX30+ paddles and it works great! I can now play Super Breakout with my new CX30+ paddles! Note: Super Breakout still has a course feel but it’s definitely playable for me now with the New CX30 + paddles! This I believe eliminates jitter. I believe the potentiometer needs an Electronic Gel Lubricant to eliminate jitter! For me this works!

 

I’m not saying you should have to do this for a new set of paddles.  But for me it’s no problem. It’s just 2 screws to remove from the back of the paddle controller and one nut to access the shaft to the potentiometer. Unlike the original set of paddles the potentiometer is riveted closed. All I did was use Spray & Stay Gel Lubricant where I drew a yellow line in the picture 3 times to be sure it went down to the potentiometer. Spray turn back and forth repeat two more times. No more jitter!

 

Try at your own risk! I’m just saying it worked for me!

I used Deoxit contact cleaner on the original paddles, but I also opened them up and scrubbed the contacts thoroughly with Q-tips. 5 months later, they still work fine, though I have to rotate/message the knob every so often to eliminate the jitters before I start a game. But they're old paddles so I expect some TLC with them. I'll investigate Spray & Stay Gel Lube (from WD40?) next time I need to clean the pots.

 

I was very disappointed in the CX-30+ jitter performance, 2 different units brand-new, out of the box - even had to troubleshoot with the 2600-daptor creator. At the time, I considered purchasing the Atari 2600+ console, but my enthusiasm has since cooled. Maybe if/when Rev 2.0 comes out, I may reconsider.

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40 minutes ago, radiohead said:

I used Deoxit contact cleaner on the original paddles, but I also opened them up and scrubbed the contacts thoroughly with Q-tips. 5 months later, they still work fine, though I have to rotate/message the knob every so often to eliminate the jitters before I start a game. But they're old paddles so I expect some TLC with them. I'll investigate Spray & Stay Gel Lube (from WD40?) next time I need to clean the pots.

 

I was very disappointed in the CX-30+ jitter performance, 2 different units brand-new, out of the box - even had to troubleshoot with the 2600-daptor creator. At the time, I considered purchasing the Atari 2600+ console, but my enthusiasm has since cooled. Maybe if/when Rev 2.0 comes out, I may reconsider.

What led me to using Spray & Stay Gel was when I cleaned the pots on an old set of paddles years ago. I noticed there was some kind of gel substance in the old original paddles. It wasn’t until a few years ago I tried the Spray & Stay Gel because the jitter would return slightly. In my opinion the Spray & Stay seems to hold up. 

I understand your disappointment. I had some thoughts of my own regarding the Atari 2600+.

 

I have to say I think the Atari 2600+ was slow getting out of the starting gate but has since crossed the finish line for a win! 

 

I for one am really enjoying it!

 

Edited by MrChickenz
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4 hours ago, MrChickenz said:

So in my opinion the course movement or pixel by pixel movement in Super Breakout is most likely emulation issues.

I don’t notice this with other paddle games just Super Breakout.

 

Would I like to see a smoother movement of the paddles in Super Breakout? Yes! Definitely if it can be done with a firmware update.

But it’s not stopping me from playing Super Breakout on the Atari 2600+ using the New CX30+ paddles or the Original paddles.

 

Have You Played Super Breakout on Atari 2600+ Today? I Have! 👍

I'm hoping it's fixed in a future firmware update as well. I see it with other games, like Kaboom!, just not as pronounced as in your Super Breakout video. 

 

I'm going to look at a local hardware store for that WD40 Spray and Stay Gel to try on my FB12 paddles in the hope that it loosens them up a bit. Just a tiny bit to see if it helps. They get looser as they warm up from using them, but the next time I try them they're back to being stiff again. 

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55 minutes ago, Gabe said:

I'm going to look at a local hardware store for that WD40 Spray and Stay Gel to try on my FB12 paddles in the hope that it loosens them up a bit. Just a tiny bit to see if it helps. They get looser as they warm up from using them, but the next time I try them they're back to being stiff again.

I haven’t tried it on my Flashback paddles yet. I’m not sure if it’s a paddle issue or a software issue with the Flashbacks. I do have the Flashback 12. I thought about trying myself.

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5 hours ago, MrChickenz said:

So in my opinion the course movement or pixel by pixel movement in Super Breakout is most likely emulation issues.

I don’t notice this with other paddle games just Super Breakout.

 

Would I like to see a smoother movement of the paddles in Super Breakout? Yes! Definitely if it can be done with a firmware update.

But it’s not stopping me from playing Super Breakout on the Atari 2600+ using the New CX30+ paddles or the Original paddles.

 

Have You Played Super Breakout on Atari 2600+ Today? I Have! 👍

If it's moving a pixel at a time (they are large pixels on 2600) you couldn't make it any smoother... you can't draw half pixels... Maybe the course movement is exaggerated by playing on a modern screen?

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23 minutes ago, MantaNZ said:

If it's moving a pixel at a time (they are large pixels on 2600) you couldn't make it any smoother... you can't draw half pixels... Maybe the course movement is exaggerated by playing on a modern screen?

Understood. Odd that there is something different about Super Breakout. Breakout is very smooth movement along with other paddle games. But like I said it doesn’t stop me from playing Super Breakout. It’s very much playable for me on the Atari 2600+ using CX30+ paddles or the Original paddles.

 

I’ve been playing Super Breakout all day! The only thing that frustrates me is the fact that I’m not as good at it as I once was! 🤣😄😂

Edited by MrChickenz
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1 hour ago, MantaNZ said:

If it's moving a pixel at a time

it's not only the on-screen motion, it's also how much do you need to turn the paddles to have the player move by a pixel and should be tuned to replicate real hardware.  Part of this is how the paddles are read: is it via a Schmitt trigger or via a simple ADC?  Real hardware uses a trigger to achieve good resolution.  The ADC could be very problematic, especially if it's only 8 bits. 

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8 minutes ago, astroguy said:

it's not only the on-screen motion, it's also how much do you need to turn the paddles to have the player move by a pixel and should be tuned to replicate real hardware.  Part of this is how the paddles are read: is it via a Schmitt trigger or via a simple ADC?  Real hardware uses a trigger to achieve good resolution.  The ADC could be very problematic, especially if it's only 8 bits. 

Ah, gotcha.

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On 6/9/2024 at 8:14 AM, MrChickenz said:

I almost cleared level 2, on Game select 5, in SUPER BREAKOUT using my New CX30+ paddles! I must clear level 2! I get so close but no cigar!

 

 

IMG_0693.jpeg

UPDATE: I cleared level 2 on Super Breakout set to game select 5. Using (ORIGINAL) paddles. Made it to level 3!


I was 2 Bricks away from clearing level 2 on Super Breakout set to game select 5. Using (CX30+) paddles. Just missed making it to level 3! 
So it can be done! You just need a good run. This shows the CX30+ paddles are as good as the Original paddles.

 

My score was higher with the CX30+ paddles. Due to the Yellow Cavity balls they score double and triple points for each brick. Which means there were 3 balls in play at the same time and the CX30+ paddles were responding very well returning all 3 balls.

 

My conclusion of the CX30+ paddles and the Original paddles on the Atari 2600+ is….

WINNER!

WINNER!

CHICKEN DINNER!
 

These games were played on my ATARI 2600+.
 

1st picture level 3 Original paddles 

2nd picture level 2 CX30+ paddles 

IMG_0711.jpeg

IMG_0712.jpeg

Edited by MrChickenz
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I have been reading about this idea to spray gel inside a potentiometer. The idea sounds absurd. I do believe in cleaning the stuff away from the pot as I did with my original paddles. There was no jitter when the surfaces are clean.

 

If you put some gel in there the first thing that comes to mind is that the gel may be condictive or isolating causing uncontrolled resistance changes on the track.

 

The pot is just a 10k part. If you have a bad part you could replace it with a pro quality part. The cost is less than €10 anyway. Most cheap pots are between €1 and €2 each.

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