Bomberman94 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Played the PAL version (many thanks @Thomas Jentzsch) and must say: ver interesting game, nice graphics and sound - happy to be able to play this 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atari_Warlord Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Put the F6 version on a Krokodile cart and it played on the 2600+, although the colors were off. How do you grab the tree in the middle? I keep swing to it and falling down in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wavemotion Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 19 minutes ago, Atari_Warlord said: How do you grab the tree in the middle? I keep swing to it and falling down in the water. Almost as soon as you jump off the vine, press UP to grab the tree as you fly by. It took me some time to get it consistent. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 On 6/5/2024 at 10:20 AM, Thomas Jentzsch said: Interesting. I may have a look. I figured out what I did. I accidentally hit the Game Select switch which pauses the game and turns on the trippy looking screen saver. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeafAtariFromKansas Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 5 hours ago, Tempest said: I figured out what I did. I accidentally hit the Game Select switch which pauses the game and turns on the trippy looking screen saver. The Game Selection can be changed 1 thru 4 by using Joystick right or left before you start. (even if you already know about it. 😉 ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Jentzsch Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 (edited) 9 hours ago, DeafAtariFromKansas said: The Game Selection can be changed 1 thru 4 by using Joystick right or left before you start. (even if you already know about it. 😉 ) And there are 5 difficulties. So if you manage to pass the 1st round starting at difficulty 4, there will be another increase. The first screens are OK, but the Cliffs of Opar become almost impossible then, even with massive cheating. The boulders are all aimed around Tarzans position and fall in large amounts. Even if you manage to reach the top ledge (unlikely), you have little to no chance to the reach the top from there. If you want to try yourselves, after starting the game, change RAM $a7 to 04 in the debugger Edited June 8 by Thomas Jentzsch 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 6 hours ago, Thomas Jentzsch said: the Cliffs of Opar become almost impossible then, even with massive cheating. The boulders are all aimed around Tarzans position and fall in large amounts. Even if you manage to reach the top ledge (unlikely), you have little to no chance to the reach the top from there. Sounds like torture to me! With that level of difficulty, being borderline unplayable, I’d just as well consider level 5 to be the end. Game over man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Jentzsch Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 (edited) 1 hour ago, Supergun said: Sounds like torture to me! With that level of difficulty, being borderline unplayable, I’d just as well consider level 5 to be the end. Game over man! Probably it is over even some levels before. But it is a prototype, so it lacks fine tuning. Difficulty fine tuning is (at least for me) one of the last steps. Edited June 8 by Thomas Jentzsch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Living Room Arcade Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 FYI, if you guys like this game, you might also like Tarsan's Rescue (Pitfall hack) by @Pac Munchkin. Spoiler The treasure hunt has been changed into a rescue mission after a plane crash. It's very well done! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 (edited) Something I have been working on since I read the article about the prototype. A few weeks ago, I created a PCB that will fit the interior of a COLECO cart -to fix a broken Mr. Do cart-. With this in mind, and since the game is a 16K one, I decided to create my own prototype for Tarzan. This PCB uses the pixelpast's design with a ATD20V8 to provide the bankswitching. It worked fine... after burning the EPROM with the F6 modified ROM, I was able to get it to boot on my 2600 Jr. My next goal is to try to recreate the original mapping scheme... as the Mr. Do cart broken PCB seems to match one of the PCBs in the artice, I was wondering if by recreating it I would be able to get the game working using logic ICs. Before fabricating these new PCBs I was wondering about a comment in the article that mentions one of the boards was not working. Since the article does not mention which one, I was wondering if this might be a dead end as I may be recreating the non-working PCB. This is the label I am looking to use on my cart once finished: Edited June 16 by SmakyTaky 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 I can help you with this project by answering most if not all of your questions as I have several of those Coleco eprom boards in my collection and have placed all of their previously discovered protos (Looping, Turbo, CPK Adventure, etc.) on genuine Coleco EPROM PCB’s inside genuine Coleco cartridge shells. I can discuss it at length and post pics as well, but later today as I’m busy with family at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 (edited) Thanks... me too. Family day today. The board I based my design on has the following part number on the rear: 91205 REV B. There are no photos of the rear of the board in the article nor it mentions which of the two boards is the one actually working. I guess I can recreate the other board too.. but since it has the ICs on it... I would be missing some traces so without the board itself it may be complex to figure it out. Edited June 16 by SmakyTaky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballblaɀer Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Front/back photos of both are attached. It’s the green 91205 REV B that hasn’t worked. Both EPROMS work when used with the 91399 board. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 (edited) Thanks for providing those up close high quality pics. (hopefully Rom Hunter can add them to his atarimania entry asap) And what you say about these 16kb boards is consistent with what I have found with the revisions of the 8kb boards. (as they also had revisions and the revisions changed the positions of the extra IC’s) The proper eprom board can be used to make any of the 8kb Coleco games. But since Tarzan was a bigger game, and Coleco never released a 16kb title, there aren’t any donors out there to be found. Making the board from scratch would be the best option as was shown in a previous post. As an example, the Zaxxon carts utilized different revisions. the one above on the left only works with an 8kb mask rom while the one on the right uses an 8kb EPROM. Edited June 17 by Supergun 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+jeremiahjt Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 It is times like these that I wish I was into emulation. I need to buy some kind of flash cartridge for these situations. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Thank you for posting the hi-res images. I will try to recreate the PCB for the 91399 board. I will probably need to ask for some guidance for those pins that are connected beneath the ICs as it is not possible for me to identify where exactly they are connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Using the images above I started working on the PCB recreation for the 91399 board. I believe I got a good deal of it, however, there are some areas the images and angles at it were taken would not allow me to understand how the connection goes. In additiona that some traces on the top layer are hidden behind the ICs. In order to undertand how are these connected, connectivity from the traces (which are exposed from what I can see in the image) may be tested to the pins on the IC to validate the actual connection. Started by overlaying the images (invering the bottom layer to make it more visible). Whit this, using KiCad I worked my way through both faces of the PCB recreating the connections to the best of my abilities. This is how the PCB design looks like at this point. I would need some help to finalize the missing connection... Most of them are from the top layer of the PCB. There is also the section on the top middle where the cap and resistor reside that I was not able to figure out, as the resistor and cap are obscuring the connections behind them and there are also vias beneath them. I think the 7402 connections may look like what I have hand-drawn on the image above. Other traces are also proposed for some of the connection. Most of the traces going behind the IC on the top layer I was not able to figure out. The same ges with the top rows of pretty nuch all ICs as the photo angle obscures the actual conections. I would appreciate if another set of images taken from the top down may be facilitated and validation with a multimeter performed to confirm the missing connection. Thank you in advance for any assitance that may be provided. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 I think the only way anyone could ever be 100% sure of a 100% perfect match would be with a complete multimeter continuity test on every single contact point and/or desoldering all of the IC’s in order to map/scan the PCB perfectly. I’d be happy to do either/or if I had the board myself and/or if it were sent to me to borrow temporarily. Another option we have is we could compare the pin outs of a 2764 and 27128 eprom and then I could do what I proposed above for the Coleco 2764 eprom PCB which would then indirectly tell us which pins of which IC’s go where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 (edited) I would not go all the way to desolder the ICs... these prototypes must really valuable. However, There are not that many pins missing... in fact, having a photo taken from the top-down would rule out some of the pins. The 74133 can be removed from the socker (as well as the EPROM) and revel some of the underlying connections. I think with that we might have about 80% of the nets figured out. The remaining ones can be validated wiht a multimeter. Having said that, it is up to the owner of the PCBs to do it... In any case, will be requesting fabrication of the PCB I have already reverse-engenniered and will test if it works with the modified F6 ROM for Tarzan. Mr. Do did (I used the ROM directly from the broken PCB I own and I used to recreate the 91205 board. given prices are cheap now to get these fabricated. Finally, not sure what you mean by comparing pins from 2764 and 27128... I think both boards above use 27128 EPROMS (my Mr. Do cart had a 27128 EPROM) and it worked unmodified with the banking cart I created using the GALV20. Edited June 18 by SmakyTaky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 8 hours ago, SmakyTaky said: (my Mr. Do cart had a 27128 EPROM) Wait. Are you saying that you doubled the 8kb rom image (2764) of mr. Do and then burned that 16kb rom image onto a 27128 eprom and then tested it on your new PCB that you just made? Or are you saying that you opened up a Mr. Do cart and the board inside used a 27128 eprom just like the Tarzan PCB? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 (edited) The later... the Mr. Do cart I got (with a broken board had a 27128 EPROM soldered to it. Once I removed the EPROM and placed it on the banking PCB made out of a GALV20 it worked just fine. In fact, The only thing that remained from the original cart (besides the case) is that EPROM. I have not tested it yet with the PCB that is based on the 91205 board -as those PCBs have just been ordered. The PCB on my Mr. Do cart is the very same PCB used in ont of the Tarzan board, but it seems that particular board is the non-working one, but I see what you mean... Mr. Do is an 8K image, not 16K.. so not sure how this was supposed to work with the 91205 board (if the mapping implemented in it is adequatre for 8K). I guess I will find out once I get the PCBs and test the Tarzan ROM if that do not work, then I can test with the Mr. Do EPROM. Edited June 19 by SmakyTaky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 On 6/16/2024 at 4:28 PM, Ballblaɀer said: Front/back photos of both are attached. It’s the green 91205 REV B that hasn’t worked. Both EPROMS work when used with the 91399 board. Would you mind to provide additional photos taken from the top towards the bottom so the pins on the upper row of the ICs become visible? Would you mind to check with a multimeter for the other connections that are hidden behind the ICs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballblaɀer Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 11 hours ago, SmakyTaky said: Would you mind to provide additional photos taken from the top towards the bottom so the pins on the upper row of the ICs become visible? Would you mind to check with a multimeter for the other connections that are hidden behind the ICs? Photos — can do. I’ll try to take and post them within the next day or two. Multimeter check — also yes, but I’ll likely need step-by-step guidance. Let me first take care of the photos, then we can loop back around to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmakyTaky Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 7 hours ago, Ballblaɀer said: Multimeter check — also yes, but I’ll likely need step-by-step guidance. Let me first take care of the photos, then we can loop back around to this. Thank you.. it is a very simple, non-intrusive procedure. Provided you have a multimeter that has continuity check (most of them do, even the very cheap ones). In any case... please PM me and I can explan how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supergun Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Ok. So I originally just assumed that they were very different, even thought that they had a different number of pins, but it looks like they are both 28 pins and there is only a single pin out difference between a 2764 eprom and a 27128 eprom. Pin 26 is NC (no connection / not used) on a 2764 and A13 on a 27128. So then these boards can’t really be all that different. And so I could see how maybe a board that was specifically designed to use a 2764 would not work with a 27128, but, if it was designed to use a 27128 then it should certainly be able to run with a 2764. Either way, the fact that you found a Mr Do cart with a 27128 eprom is very odd since Mr Do is only 8kb and only needs a 2764. But this whole thing now has me thinking that I should burn a 27128 with Tarzan and test it on all of the Coleco boards that I have as it just might work. I’ll report back and let you know, because if one of them does work, then we already have what we need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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