Tips/Tricks/Products Used In Restoration

[flashjazzcat]

I remembered to take before and after pics this time:

 

 

No need to peroxide the case this time: It's still the original colour and the only discolouration which didn't come off in the bath was the staining on the keys on the left hand side. These have been removed and are awaiting British sun for peroxide treatment.

 

The badge still had the protective plastic film on it, which naturally I couldn't wait to peel off. It took with it a few flakes of red paint off the second "A" in "ATARI", but that can be carefully fixed with paint later.

 

I removed the badge as usual by heating up that area of the case with a hair dryer and then wedging a jewellers' screwdriver under the end and working along the length, lifting the badge as I went. Almost like using a chisel when gouging wood. The result is that the badge curls up as it comes off and needs to be flattened out afterwards.

 

The only other repairs on this machine have been to two broken traces on the keyboard mylar. Lacking a conductive pen, I managed to fix these with two single strands of wire core laid on a piece of stick-tape and applied to the plastic sheet. I managed to visually locate the damaged traces and scraped away the black either side of the break before pressing the tape home. It's just a temporary fix until I get a pen.

 

[flashjazzcat]

Finished:

 

 

 

The only thing which still looks aged is the badge, I think. I'd like to replace it if I could. Shame there's not a manufacturer of synthetic replacement case badges: I think they'd be popular.

 

Not a bad day's work, though.

Edited August 9, 2009 by flashjazzcat

[mimo]

you could probably get a badge from Best or MyAtari, if you can I'll want a couple

[flashjazzcat]

you could probably get a badge from Best or MyAtari, if you can I'll want a couple

OK - will look into it and let you know!

[UNIXcoffee928]

Does anyone have any good tricks for fixing plastic multi-conductor cable?

 

I have an old 400 keyboard in the attic that ran into a soldering iron accident back in the 80's, when my friends & I had the great idea to make a glovebox computer in an old '73 Volvo.

 

Needless to say, I quickly found out that the soldering iron was the wrong approach... lol. 

 

The guts of the old glovebox 400 computer have been setting in a box packed away for a long time, but recently, I thought that I should re-assemble it back into it's original 400 form-factor, for preservation purposes.

 

Aside from just getting a replacement 400 keyboard, does anyone have a good trick that they have developed for cleanly fixing bad conductor lines in a thin plastic multi-conductor ribbon-width cable, as found attached to the 400 keyboard? 

 

Thanks

[mimo]

Does anyone have any good tricks for fixing plastic multi-conductor cable?

 

I have an old 400 keyboard in the attic that ran into a soldering iron accident back in the 80's, when my friends & I had the great idea to make a glovebox computer in an old '73 Volvo.

 

Needless to say, I quickly found out that the soldering iron was the wrong approach... lol.

 

The guts of the old glovebox 400 computer have been setting in a box packed away for a long time, but recently, I thought that I should re-assemble it back into it's original 400 form-factor, for preservation purposes.

 

Aside from just getting a replacement 400 keyboard, does anyone have a good trick that they have developed for cleanly fixing bad conductor lines in a thin plastic multi-conductor ribbon-width cable, as found attached to the 400 keyboard?

 

Thanks

good luck with that:P I just buy new keyboards from best for $17:D

[flashjazzcat]

Anyone know how to get rust stains off XE keyboard caps? I bought a 65XE the other week - mainly for the motherboard - but I could use a spare keyboard too. It had the rubber-cup variety of keyboard, which I dismantled and washed and left in a tin in pieces. Rather stupidly, I left the screws in there too and they rusted and stained a couple of keys. The keyboard is RetroBriting quite nicely at the moment but those rust stains aren't budging. I can't believe I made such a dumb mistake. Only about four keys are stained but naturally it really ruins the look of the thing. I have a "sprung" keyboard with nice clean caps but a knackered mylar: sadly the keycaps aren't interchangeable between the two models or I'd be laughing. It would be nice to get this fixed up: I once bought a replacement keyboard from Best which was great, but I got hit with a 30+ GBP customs clearance bill when it hit the British shores.

Edited February 10, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[flashjazzcat]

Well, it turned out to be an easy job removing the rust: CIF cleaner on a damp cloth.

 

This has to be one of the most dramatic transformations yet (for me, at least) after only a single application of 40 vol and four hours on the windowsill in very weak and sporadic winter sun:

 

 

No "before" photograph, but believe me, the key caps were the colour of butter.

Edited February 10, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[jaybird3rd]

Forgive me if this has already been discussed, but does anyone have any tips to offer on how to polish the aluminum face plates that were often used on classic consoles (2600 Jr., 7800, Intellivision, etc)? I've got a few that are looking pretty dingy, and I'd like to get them shiny again, but I don't want to scratch them or damage the writing/logos that are silkscreened on them. Any advice or product recommendations would be appreciated.

[A.J. Franzman]

Here's one I didn't see in this topic yet (maybe I missed it though): "Actiplaque" label glue/adhesive mottling can be mostly reversed by using a couple of products (gum remover and mildew stain remover) marketed to stamp collectors: Interest Check: Vulture Attack - SOLD, post #15.

[Spurge]

Wondering if anyone has re-sprayed cases or plastic parts and if so how well did they turn out. I'm looking at this option but am not sure of what paints to use and how hard wearing these paints would be.

[kamakazi]

I'm trying to figure out how to get the 5200 back to a gloss black finish without using harsh chemicals.

[tjlazer]

Finished:

 

 

 

The only thing which still looks aged is the badge, I think. I'd like to replace it if I could. Shame there's not a manufacturer of synthetic replacement case badges: I think they'd be popular.

 

Not a bad day's work, though.

 

bump

 

Are you noticing these machines you've restored turning yellow again?

Edited November 10, 2010 by tjlazer

[psquare75]

I actually just redid my 800xl I recently bought here.

 

 

 

 

 

Done.

 

 

 

 

 

Besides splitting the case and the brown. I used car polish on the clear plastic piece over the power LED, metal polish on the buttons (which do look better than they were but not perfect), plastic adhesion promoter on the case followed by Rustoleum Outdoor furniture enamel, in Almond, it's a satin finish. It's extremely close to OEM, but not 100%. Maybe 1 shade off.

[flashjazzcat]

Are you noticing these machines you've restored turning yellow again?

Of course. I think that's to be expected, unless you hermetically seal them. The XLs I coated with Armourall seem to be fairing better than the XEs I didn't.

[jaybird3rd]

I don't remember where I saw it, but someone suggested a coat of Sureguard to protect consoles and computers that have gone through the "Retrobrite treatment" from fading again. I've only tried it with one computer so far (an Apple ][e Platinum), but it seems to have worked; I haven't noticed any subsequent yellowing in the year or so since I worked on it.

[mimo]

the 800xl and STe that I did when this first started do not look to have any yellowing so far

[flashjazzcat]

I don't remember where I saw it, but someone suggested a coat of Sureguard to protect consoles and computers that have gone through the "Retrobrite treatment" from fading again. I've only tried it with one computer so far (an Apple ][e Platinum), but it seems to have worked; I haven't noticed any subsequent yellowing in the year or so since I worked on it.

It looks more-or-less the same as the Armourall I'm using. The XE keyboards are terrible for yellowing. I'm redoing a couple of mine, then I'm gonna hit them with UV spray...

[jaybird3rd]

It looks more-or-less the same as the Armourall I'm using. The XE keyboards are terrible for yellowing. I'm redoing a couple of mine, then I'm gonna hit them with UV spray...

It's actually somewhat different: Sureguard (at least the variety I use) gives you a nice even matte finish, and you really can't tell it's there once you've applied it to the textured plastic surfaces on many classic computers. Armor All seems to have more of a glossy, oily finish. I've gotten 2600 cartridges that have had the Armor All treatment, and it made them too slippery, so I'm reluctant to try it on a computer.

 

I do agree that the XE keyboards are especially vulnerable to yellowing. The first thing I do with the new ones I get is to remove the key caps and apply a quick coat of Sureguard to them, to prevent them from yellowing in the first place. So far, I haven't had one "go yellow" on me yet.

[flashjazzcat]

Hmmm... gonna have to get some Sureguard. Where can one obtain it?

 

Anywhere cheaper than here:

 

http://www.dhgate.com/sureguard-archival-uv-protective-lustre-print/r-ff8080812be1a279012beb4fa8674d28.html

Edited November 26, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[beamer320i]

Hi all,

 

Don't forget there are variants of Armorall, I use the semi-matt spray (grey label), the normal gloss spray is too oily and glossy. I usually apply the spray to a cloth and then coat the item, works well for me!

 

Dom

[flashjazzcat]

Lyson PrintGuard is the stuff to buy, seemingly. It's about a tenner a tin and dries to a matte finish. The trouble with Armorall when it comes to keyboards is that it has to be "rubbed" on.

Edited November 26, 2010 by flashjazzcat

[mimo]

I have got a tin of that, did not even think to use it

[flashjazzcat]

I've just ordered one; I figured it was important enough to justify 12GBP for a tin.

[Spurge]

Here's one thing i've been trying and so far, it has worked great. Vaseline!

 

Grab a rag, lint free, wipe vaseline over the plastics , rubbers etc. Only a small amount and keep lightly rubbing it in. You don't want an oily surface.

 

I've cleaned an Atari 400 and did this and it came up beautifully. I've also looked into Vaseline and it is a chemicaly neutral product, so, it shoudn't do any damage to the plastics and it leaves a thin protective film over the computer.

 

So far, it's worked great and I have the computer stored in plastic and in a box. It's been like this for about 6 months now, no sweating or any change in appearance from what I can see.

 

I've even had words to my father inlaw who's an industrial chemist and he seems to think it's be a good protectant, not against UV though. So, it's a cheap way to protect your gear.

Edited November 26, 2010 by Spurge