GOTHCLAWZ Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 That looks amazing! Kind of reminds me of the time that I got a SCART lead for my PAL Sega Megadrive II & when I got SCART for the NES, SNES & N64, the improvement is brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peale Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I'm having a problem opening the schematic files in Eagle. It tells me the data is invalid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 ? PAL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhalo Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Longhorn's guide for the 4-Switcher is for the Rev.16 motherboard... There were 3 major revisions for the 4 switcher. Rev1-13, Rev14-15, and Rev16+. I just finished a mod on a Rev14 board which has the 820 Ohm resistor connected directly to the TIA socket instead of its own place on the board. Have a look at the pics if you have a Rev14 or 15 board and need some help.... I briefly had my hands on a Rev13 board and it is a bit different since it is before the addition on the diodes and has some resistor value changes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frotz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I installed this mod into a light sixer today. There was some initial trouble with the audio connections not being solid (I tried soldering to a socket instead of directly to the TIA chip. I decided to solder directly to the chip as Longhorn suggests. The other initial problem is the color randomly going in and out. I think I have this tracked down to a dodgy connection on the modboard. Then I noticed another problem. After about fifteen minutes of fiddling with the system, it quit working. I checked the power supply and found that it was outputting 14 volts instead of 9. Did I just now ruin my light-sixer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwilkson Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I installed this mod into a light sixer today. There was some initial trouble with the audio connections not being solid (I tried soldering to a socket instead of directly to the TIA chip. I decided to solder directly to the chip as Longhorn suggests. The other initial problem is the color randomly going in and out. I think I have this tracked down to a dodgy connection on the modboard. Then I noticed another problem. After about fifteen minutes of fiddling with the system, it quit working. I checked the power supply and found that it was outputting 14 volts instead of 9. Did I just now ruin my light-sixer? 14V is normal for the AC adapter when it isn't plugged into the Atari. Try measuring the 7805 regulator voltages with the console turned on. Center pin is ground. The input pin should read somewhere above +8V. It varies from console to console and by what you have plugged into the ports. The output should read very close to +5V when the deck is turned on no matter what. It might be easier to measure at the TIA chip. Pin 1 is ground and pin 20 is +5V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frotz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 (edited) I installed this mod into a light sixer today. There was some initial trouble with the audio connections not being solid (I tried soldering to a socket instead of directly to the TIA chip. I decided to solder directly to the chip as Longhorn suggests. The other initial problem is the color randomly going in and out. I think I have this tracked down to a dodgy connection on the modboard. Then I noticed another problem. After about fifteen minutes of fiddling with the system, it quit working. I checked the power supply and found that it was outputting 14 volts instead of 9. Did I just now ruin my light-sixer? 14V is normal for the AC adapter when it isn't plugged into the Atari. Try measuring the 7805 regulator voltages with the console turned on. Center pin is ground. The input pin should read somewhere above +8V. It varies from console to console and by what you have plugged into the ports. The output should read very close to +5V when the deck is turned on no matter what. It might be easier to measure at the TIA chip. Pin 1 is ground and pin 20 is +5V. This test checks out okay. Still, I have no picture and no sound. Any ideas? I just noticed that the FMS6400 is so hot it blistered my finger. Hmmm.... Edited June 9, 2009 by Frotz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhalo Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Did you assemble the mod board yourself or did you buy it pre-built. I would check to see if something isn't soldered in backwards... mainly the diode (which should have its cathode (striped) end facing the 4050 chip) or the Electrolytic Capacitors which are polarized and sometimes get put in backwards.... and always... cold solder joints (dull, non-shiny round solder blobs....)!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frotz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Did you assemble the mod board yourself or did you buy it pre-built. I would check to see if something isn't soldered in backwards... mainly the diode (which should have its cathode (striped) end facing the 4050 chip) or the Electrolytic Capacitors which are polarized and sometimes get put in backwards.... and always... cold solder joints (dull, non-shiny round solder blobs....)!! All those polarized parts are installed the right way round. Since I bought two kits, I built up the second. This time I attached only the audio outputs. I'll gradually go from there. Right now I'm waiting for the TV to be vacated so I can check things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpenter Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I'm having some bleeding on composite output (haven't tested on s-video yet). When I turn off color select switch the bleeding remains colored, for my surprise. Apparently it happens only to green. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpenter Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Tested on S-Video. The bleeding is very acceptable. Aparently it's working properly, Longhorn! Will post some pictures later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I just built and installed my kit today. The color isn't the best, but the sharpness of the picture is great. It was a great buy for $20. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I forgot to mention, the faux-stereo sound is really cool as well. I am suspicious that the color problem may be my Atari and not the mod. I'm going to have to keep an eye out for another VCS system and order another mod kit. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tremoloman2006 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Anyone heard from LE? I sent him a SVA2 to create the install instructions weeks ago and haven't heard from him since. I hope everything is OK with him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Anyone heard from LE? I sent him a SVA2 to create the install instructions weeks ago and haven't heard from him since. I hope everything is OK with him. Yeah, apparently he was on vacation for a bit, but is back now. Try e-mailing or PMing him again. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swedee Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Hi. I'm new to this site and I have to say this is a great forum. Anyway I have a couple of PAL 2600AP and I've tried several easy mods off the internet but it didn't work out satisfactorily. Shitty colors, bleeding, out of sync and latest, I have a working mod for 20 seconds and then picture dies. Anyway, I'm keen on adapting this mod to PAL. I'll try this. I'll take pictures and post them if it works. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InactiveX Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 How is the PAL progress going LE/Mimo? Anything to report? I'm anxiously waiting and have just bought a third VCS. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I'm waiting for news from LE as to weather this will work with a PAL system as there is no TIA (blank) on the PAL systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SpiceWare Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) I forgot to mention, the faux-stereo sound is really cool as well. It's not faux-stereo. The Atari was originally going to use 2 built in speakers, you can see the speaker holes in the top of the Atari. The speakers were dropped as a cost-saving measure and sound was routed to the TV instead. Back then TVs were mono, stereo TV didn't come out until 84. The earliest games were written before the speakers were dropped, and they took advantage of the stereo sound. In Air-Sea-Battle the left player's sound effects come out the left speaker, the right player's out the right. Games written after that didn't care about the stereo sound as it didn't matter since nobody could hear it. Homebrew games Skeleton+ and Medieval Mayhem also utilize stereo sound as these were written after AV modding became popular. Stella also supports stereo sound, though it's enabled on a game-by-game basis. Edited June 30, 2009 by SpiceWare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spazmonkey Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Mine fell, and now all I get is half color, as seen here: Whats that about? I troubleshooted the TIA, I checked the joints, and even replaced the TIA with another one, and soldered everything up, but still no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwilkson Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Mine fell, and now all I get is half color, as seen here:[snip]Is there a resistor between pin 6 and pin 9? (might be on the motherboard, might be on the mod) Check the connections there. Check everything associated with pin 9. I can't view Longhorn's schematics right now so I can't offer more detailed suggestions. Gotta go glue some more pieces to Death Race! It's getting picked up tonight for California Extreme. Soooo last minute!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Anybody hear anything from LE since his last posting here in May? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Last Seen: Fri Jun 26, 2009 10:19 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tremoloman2006 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 I've IM'd him several times with no response. *shrug* 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevEng Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Same result for me since mid-June. I tried to reach him through private messages here and mail via his webform. I hope he's ok! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.