7800fan Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 R73 on Lynx 1 is part of voltage divider for AC connected. Without it working, Lynx 1 would not be able to tell if it's connected to AC power or battery and thus would auto-shut off after some inactivity time. This feature was disabled in Lynx 2. On Lynx 2, it is part of the power on/off system. Part numbering were reshuffled for dumb reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Yep, I actually knew that but.....why then needs R73 be removed it doesn't seem to have a relation with the LCD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 On first tests with LYNX-I I had some trouble, so I removed R73. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) Would you mind sharing what problems ? My guess is that by removing R73 the remaining voltage on the AC connected input is higher than normal ? Maybe the LCD draw a bit more power and sometimes the level of AC connected got a bit too low (as I calculated it would be 7.1V if exactly 9V is coming from the AC adapter, and 7.0Volt is the lowest limit for a CMOS high) so the Lynx would turn off after some minutes ? Anyway.....since the LCD is well on it's way to me I already started ripping out all unnecessary parts. One thing I need to know for sure: do I have to remove both the small and large flat cables completely from the PCB ? I mean, these are not used anymore ? And what is the best way to remove them ? Edited August 16, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Never mind, saw some pics of Lynx I mods on this thread and it's clear that both flat cables (FPC, I hadn't heard about that abbreviation before) need to be removed completely. Now I have a very naked Lynx PCB here....I'm waiting for the mail-man 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 For Lynx 1, yes to them. Lynx 2 has single cable to LCD and separate cable for front buttons. Atari were nice and used connector rather than directly mounting the cable to the PCB so just unclip and Lynx 2 LCD can be removed quickly and if it's still good working condition, offered to someone who has spots or lines and aren't able to get McWill LCD or wants to keep the Lynx 100% original. Lynx 1 is a bit trickier though, careless ripping could damage the PCB and make soldering wires a bit hard. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Well I ripped them and it's looking good Even better: McWill's LCD arrived today....wow, ordered sunday....arrived wednesday :) Installing it as we speak ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) OK........ Marco first of all you did some completely brilliant work on this LCD......but Writing a good instruction is clearly not your talent ;) The Quick guide makes me feel puzzled constantly..... When I get this thing installed and working let me write a new step-by-step guide Let me get this right: do I need to make a jumper from Vcc (+5V) from somewhere on the Lynx PCB to TP12 ? It would make sense since removing the power module renders that section without its normal +20V...... Edited August 17, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Also.....you indicate "Backlight - pin 4 on the right" next to the LCD-PCB drawing and then on the drawing of the Lynx under Step4 there is "Backlight" indicated on the PCB......do I need to connect these ? And what's up with the TPR also indicated there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krip316 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Writing a good instruction is clearly not your talent ;) In his defense, English is not McWills first language. If you pm McWill, he will clarify the instructions. He's done it for me when I had trouble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) I know, it's not mine either but it's not just a language thing... But a good instruction would prevent a lot of questions. And I'd be glad to help write it, and then someone who's native language is English can correct it Edited August 17, 2016 by Level42 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Wow, that wasn't exactly a walk in the park but...........it worked right away !!!!! Woohooo ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 a couple of gotchas I ran into: - instructions talk about jumper but never say where it is / what it's labelled! - instructions aren't clear about the display button wiring. eg. what happens if I wire pin 1 to GND and still wire display to pin 4? If I dont install VGA connector, is it possible to make display button do on/off/retro without cycling through non-existing VGA options. Most important: instructions talk about testing Vcc. Is it even possible for Lynx to run normally with Vcc >5.5V?? Testing for that Voltage (by shorting GND in battery to middle pin on headphone jack) released magic smoke in mine resulting in me needing to buy another Lynx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krip316 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) I know, it's not mine either but it's not just a language thing... But a good instruction would prevent a lot of questions. And I'd be glad to help write it, and then someone who's native language is English can correct it English is the only language I know. I have done my own write up for the Lynx II & gg with pics to clear some things up. I'd be more than happy to help out too if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 17, 2016 by Krip316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelperfect Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 English is the only language I know. I have done my own write up for the Lynx II & gg with pics to clear some things up. I'd be more than happy to help out too if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Where can I find your Lynx II guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krip316 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Where can I find your Lynx II guide? It's a rough draft atm. I have to clean it up. I'll post it as soon as I can. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Most important: instructions talk about testing Vcc. Is it even possible for Lynx to run normally with Vcc >5.5V?? Testing for that Voltage (by shorting GND in battery to middle pin on headphone jack) released magic smoke in mine resulting in me needing to buy another Lynx. The Lynx chipset is CMOS technology which means it can handle up to 7 Volts so yes the Lynx can run at voltages over 5V. 9V (or higher) is too high though. Edited August 18, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 I also did a quick test with overclocking. I had the Lemmings cart in it so graphically a very "slow" game but.....it worked fine Turned the clock all the way up to 22Mhz (the max for now) and display was fine. Not sure how it will respond to games with fast graphics will test that tonight. However this is already very promising. The only thing that the new LCD doesn't like is underclocking but so does the original screen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 OK one thing I still don't get.....do I need to route a wire between the [backlight] solder pad on the LCD to the center of the brightness pot as indicated on the last drawing ? I didn't do that first and the screen worked, so I just soldered a wire between these two points thinking I could select some things (like scan lines) but the pot doesn't do anything ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 IIRC the put is repurposed for selecting internal LCD vs external VGA. I haven't read the sheet and I did my Lynx so many months ago plus I skipped VGA on mine. My Lynx LCD was the original version with one LCD mode, not the later with simulated scanline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen's Retro Show Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 My new video on how to install a McWill LCD screen in your ATARI LYNX model II. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 OK one thing I still don't get.....do I need to route a wire between the [backlight] solder pad on the LCD to the center of the brightness pot as indicated on the last drawing ? I didn't do that first and the screen worked, so I just soldered a wire between these two points thinking I could select some things (like scan lines) but the pot doesn't do anything ? Yes, for switching the modes you need the wire from backlight point of ATARI PCB to pin 4 backlight of LCD mod kit. Otherwise you can't switch between the modes normal picture, scanlines, VGA and VGA scanlines. If you wire pin 1 of LCD mod kit to GND, then VGA modes are not provided and you just have 2 modes: internal 3.5" LCD normal and internal 3.5" with scanlines. You have to switch by BACKLIGHT BUTTON, not thumbwheel. The thumbwheel on LYNX-II is not necessary anymore. It's only necessary on LYNX-I for switching the modes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Arcade Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Just want to give McWill a shout-out for the awesome product he has made available to all of us. I ordered the screen August 12th, and it was delivered to me in San Jose CA on the August 22nd. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genfuyung Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 How do I order one of these kits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krip316 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) . Edited August 28, 2016 by Krip316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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