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Wanted: Advice - How much should I pay?


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I'm thinking about buying an SNES and I'm not sure what I should pay. I'm not looking for anything in the box. I just don't want any sort of yellowing on it or chipping and the power adapter port intact. I'm looking for all the connections and with at least 1 controller.




Just curious. :)

Edited by guitarmas
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Well for a really minty gray console I would expect you to have to pay at least $60 shipped if not more.


The price of clean grey consoles are more than $60 shipped now for sure. Maybe $60 plus shipping if you are very lucky. I see yellowed ones sell on ebay all day long for that much and more. It's sad but true. Super Nintendo's used to be a dime and dozen. Not so much anymore now that the SNES era kids have their own disposable income.

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How much should I pay? Talk about a loaded question! I'd re-phrase and ask, "What's the current going rate?"

Would you ask a car salesman, "How much should I pay for this used car?" or would you tell him, "It's only worth $_______ to me, take it or leave it." I've seen some real 'interesting' prices on eBay....

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  • 2 weeks later...

In case somebody else needs advice - don't consider retro bright as an alternative as in most cases the yellowing will return! The best option - apart from getting a "mint" unit - is to repaint a yellowed one. (Careful with VERY yellowed ones as the plastic becomes brittle too!)


I have a Commodore 1084S monitor here which was repainted professionally and in the correct colors years ago and it looks perfect to this day!

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The yellowing will not return provided you seal it in some way (clearcoat) after you get it non-yellowed.


I'm hearing A LOT of different things in this regard.


While some say that using H2O2 isn't "strong" enough to dye plastics permanently - and recommend chlorine based dyes and worse - others say that H2O2 is TOO strong and plastics should only be dyed by using sunlight/ultraviolet light. And don't get me started on those who recommend dipping the plastics into diesel fuel (!) after the dyeing to keep it from getting more brittle.


Sealing with clearcoat also came into my mind. Then again, AFAIK, it is the boron that is used in the plastics (to keep it from burning) which is evaporating and creating the yellow oxidation in the process. So, even if you seal the surface the boron will keep on evaporating as the material basically keeps dissolving further and further once the process has been started.

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