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UAV mod on 6 Switch colors are off


shear_xear

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4 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Can you please provide a picture of your wire on your s-video connection? From what I can see on what you have posted, the UAV wiring looks correct so if you aren't getting color then my guess is that the ground could be missing to your chroma output. You need to have ground attached to both of the bottom pins of the s-video as they are not connected up normally. I actually use a little of clipped lead from a component to attach them together and then solder a single wire to that so that ground is attached to both Luma and Chroma.

 

 

I did it exactly like seen below.

 

Odd would be if i have to tear the UAV board apart and remove the jumpers just to go for the alternative version (like shear_xear showed).😔

5A957D8D-A643-463F-A0F8-08E191C77951.jpeg

Edited by m.o.terra kaesi
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1 hour ago, m.o.terra kaesi said:

I did it exactly like seen below.

 

Odd would be if i have to tear the UAV board apart and remove the jumpers just to go for the alternative version (like shear_xear showed).😔

5A957D8D-A643-463F-A0F8-08E191C77951.jpeg

That should work yes. But what I would do to at least make sure the UAV isn't at fault, is to wire up the composite and attach it using one of those grounds. What I do when I install and wire out the UAV is to use the ground next to the chroma as the ground for both Chroma and Luma, and then use the ground on the opposite side for the composite and my audio. So if you are getting color when using composite, then it might be something with the UAV but could also be your TV not liking the signal for some reason. I've had a few of my clients over the years tell me that consoles I added s-video to for them, would work on some TVs and be black and white on others.

 

As for the installation itself, one of the reasons I don't do the 4050 install on the 2600 is because for me it there isn't that much difference in the amount of work and time needed since you still have to solder in the socket, attach the UAV while keeping the 4050 in circuit in most cases, plus the jumpers. It is just as easier for me to cut out some wires of the lenghts I needs, strip the ends, tin, and solder them into place on the board and into the vias on the UAV. Easier to recover from a mistake this way as well.

 

 

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I tried now your first suggestion: I connected the two grounds under chromo and composite under Luma...just to check what happens, but still: black & white.😑

 

Next up, I will try another TV. 

 

By the way: the seperate audio-kit doesnt do anything too😒.

 

If it wasnt the TV, I will go for yor alternative installation variant: but I have to get the correct scheme for S-VIDEO which I didnt find yet. (6-switcher light, B Board)

 

The Picture shows my outputs: on the right s-video with luma and chroma and the two grounds underneath. In the middle a mono chinch exit and on the left a 3.5mm mono exit (I thought it would be nice to have bought audio choices on board)

D2C3777C-1603-49FD-94B0-7BD82D2B2D89.jpeg

179AF1AC-CFC3-43D0-B8C6-46BAF7A12017.jpeg

Edited by m.o.terra kaesi
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Update: 

I tried a second TV now, still black & white.

So I go now for this mod here (picture) and I will take off the jumpers on the UAV Board to solder the wires ordinary.

My Revision B Board looks 99% the same like the Revision C board in the picture, so I guess, it should work.

One more question: how did you get the sound  (since my audio-board from TBA did not work yet too)?

I found a slightly different variant for the audio-board than the one I did (see also picture) 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0533.jpeg

IMG_0532.jpeg

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Right, I never had much luck with that approach either, but again, the  way posted in the picture below has always worked.  I also have to recommend you trying composite video out as opposed to svideo.  If you get color that way, then there is an issue with the svideo jack.  

45F3AF85-3B42-469F-B64B-E1A011C881E8.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, shear_xear said:

Right, I never had much luck with that approach either, but again, the  way posted in the picture below has always worked.  I also have to recommend you trying composite video out as opposed to svideo.  If you get color that way, then there is an issue with the svideo jack.  

45F3AF85-3B42-469F-B64B-E1A011C881E8.jpeg

Sorry, but could you explain me those 5 wires and where they should go? 

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Guys.... I did now the version from shear_xear and what shall I say... I grilled the main resistor. OMG 💀

 

I'm giving up on it now. After 15hours of trail and error and a big buck of money. 😪

I'm to less of an expert and seem to have bad luck.

 

There are two options I see now:

A) I throw the whole console away or sell it defective for nothing or

B) I send it to a person who can do what I couldn't 

 

You guys are not around the corner, unfortunately.

Edited by m.o.terra kaesi
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Ah.  That's the 5v regulator, and it looks original.  Same with the main cap in the background.  Should be totally unrelated to the video issues before it died, but bad caps and regulator dont help, either.  You can get a regulator and cap refresh kit on the cheap to replace it and many other components that fail over time.  Console5.com has a lot of options. Did anything short the backside of either?

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2 hours ago, BriGuy_the_AtariGuy said:

Ah.  That's the 5v regulator, and it looks original.  Same with the main cap in the background.  Should be totally unrelated to the video issues before it died, but bad caps and regulator dont help, either.  You can get a regulator and cap refresh kit on the cheap to replace it and many other components that fail over time.  Console5.com has a lot of options. Did anything short the backside of either?

I didn't have the nerve to check the backside.

 

Anybody available to do an easy AV mod for me? (I assume, the UAV board is dead, as it did not work in 3 soldered variants now!)

the tv-connectors are already drilled. 🙄

 

I guess you guys life all in the US so shipping would be pretty expensive for me.

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I would be very surprised if the UAV were dead.  Power regulators die on old Ataris all the time, and I always do a recap and replace the power regulator on every Atari I install UAVs in (which is a lot).  Replacing the caps and PR is very easy, and it’s more than likely the UAV is good.  I’m not sure how installing the kit directly to the TIA would have any connection to the PR dying.  Even if you only get a new 7805 power regulator, it’s worth the try.  

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3 hours ago, m.o.terra kaesi said:

I didn't have the nerve to check the backside.

 

Anybody available to do an easy AV mod for me? (I assume, the UAV board is dead, as it did not work in 3 soldered variants now!)

the tv-connectors are already drilled. 🙄

 

I guess you guys life all in the US so shipping would be pretty expensive for me.

You might reach out to @juansolo and @marauder666 as they are located in the UK and quite familiar with the UAV setups although they also have some of their own solutions in place but not sure on the 2600 side of things. So I'm not sure if the shipping to the UK would be cheaper or more but they are the first two I think of when seeing requests for service across the pond from the rest of us here in the US.

 

 

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8 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

You might reach out to @juansolo and @marauder666 as they are located in the UK and quite familiar with the UAV setups although they also have some of their own solutions in place but not sure on the 2600 side of things. So I'm not sure if the shipping to the UK would be cheaper or more but they are the first two I think of when seeing requests for service across the pond from the rest of us here in the US.

We could certainly help out. We can do UAV but it can be pricey here, or we have our own board that does Composite and S-Video. Problem is Brexit sadly in that postage would be subject to customs in both directions. Where us dealing with mainland Europe used to be easy and cheap, it's now prohibitively expensive. So it'd be better if they could find someone more local to do the work.

 

It sucks big time.

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2 hours ago, juansolo said:

We could certainly help out. We can do UAV but it can be pricey here, or we have our own board that does Composite and S-Video. Problem is Brexit sadly in that postage would be subject to customs in both directions. Where us dealing with mainland Europe used to be easy and cheap, it's now prohibitively expensive. So it'd be better if they could find someone more local to do the work.

 

It sucks big time.

thanks big time for your offers! I checked that shipping to US is 50 bucks and to UK 40 bucks. So not that big of a difference. I thought "presents" are customs free, or no more?

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1 hour ago, m.o.terra kaesi said:

thanks big time for your offers! I checked that shipping to US is 50 bucks and to UK 40 bucks. So not that big of a difference. I thought "presents" are customs free, or no more?

Shipping for you to send it to the US might be 50 bucks, but it is likely to cost more than that to send it back.

 

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